RideWithStyles

Bloody hell that foodstop cafe must be a accident blackspot! food comedowns now a rising risk?

Bloody hell that foodstop cafe must be a accident blackspot! food comedowns now a rising risk?

Hi Jamie, Not any car oil under any circumstances! dont bother with fully synthetic, part synthetic from any known brand will be fine. Owt from castrol power 1 4t, motul 5100 to name one of their grades but others are available, rock oil gaurdian 4t etc but It will be cheap stuff at about £7-15 per litre. Changing the oil often with part syn (to the book or earlier if you happy to do it) is better than buying more expensive oil with the mind set of change the oil less often. Personally id dont and not a fan of reusing sump plug washers, new every time. rags, brake cleaner, a oil pan, spare container to put the old oil in till you take take it to the recycling centre. gently pre warm the oil on idle for a couple of mins before changing the oil. lift off the oil filler plug to allow air to get in so the oil fill flow out at a steady rate rather than glugging everywhere. Yours might be a paper filter in a canister? You may need a particular tool to get the cap of Or a fabric/spider clamp to get it off? Tools, torque wrench is best as sump plugs are generally between 30 and 10nm depending on the vehicle which isnt alot but you NEED to know what its for your bike. lube the seals and filters (if possible) with the engine oi@l before fitting, also make sure oil filter cap is tightened to the correct torque setting. Put in half the oil of its said capacity of the sump which manufacturer says it holds first of iff its on the engine casing? ( a Honda cbf 125 holds 1ltr most other bikes hold 3ltrs so i start at 500mls for the cbf and 1.5 for a 3ltr cap bike at first. Leave it about 30 secs, test the level with the dip stick cleaned or the sight oil with the bike level off the side stand. now if you have a dipstick generally is measured with the dipstick sat ontop of the casing and NOT SCREWED IN. Id Add 150mls on cbf or 500mls with a 3ltr capacity bike at a time till it shows about half way on the dips or window. with the oil filler plug screwed in now start the bike up and let it run for a min or so, and recheck the level ensuring it stays within the min and max, personally id have the level at 3/4s, unless its the cbf so i max that bike level as it has a tiny oil capacity (1ltr) and it naturally burns the oil off with use.

. they should have filled out paperwork when they acquired or stripped parts and sent them off but assuming is the mother of cock ups, further more with paper trail of the supposed next owner and you get the paperwork to fill it in but rarely online sellers do it so you better off just making sure its done. otherwise a reputable garage will flag up problems at mot time. if the police pull you over for something and bother to check (especially if uve been naughty) they will try to trace and copper gets annoyed at have to spend more time small talking while following up loose ends.... as they will think " is it a stolen engine, why doesnt the docs follow up....

Pretty much as long as you've got the doc for them both or good reason (reputable dismantlers/scrap yard record for the engine) or suspect that its not from a stolen bike, the dvla wont be that fussed as long as you fill in the forms to let them update the records and give you a new piece of paper.

Nice bike, Pretty much the same as neighbours. It wouldn't been my way for this particular bike. From the pictures: bars / levers look like it could foul the screen and its surround at lock to lock (cut out section is for the clipons lower down but raising and coming back to bubble the rider) are fixed in place to the chassis, unless your planning to fit really narrow and tapered bar to the tank to allow movement or dremel the the surround like a street fighter/ tuono? then fit the mirrors back on, if you have to modify the screen and surround for the bars, make sure you have thought what to do about them or choose end bar mounted ones for an example for they have to go somewhere on the bike, legally. Have you checked there enough length for no blinding, stretching etc for the clutch, choke and brake lines? Now that they will have to go at least 4-6 inches higher up also taking into consideration of the forks to raise and lower while the steering is at full lock left to right so the lines travel is now further. If not this will need longer lines or custom from venhill or hel etc. the brake fluid bottle has a very high chance of catching the screen as it sits higher and further forward than the bars themselves just like the levers. Is the riser accepting the same bar diameter as the clip ons while correct width and taper your looking for/require? If not you'll have to source some throttle and clutch mounts that will fit those bars.

Just to add. If you do get a new exhaust just make sure it comes with a manufacturers product euro conformity papers. The feds can get even picky with what tyres are on the bike (mix brands, wrong spec, different model, no certification of pass testing for that bike etc) in that area of the world, so make sure thats on the list to need if touring.

. fiat, only the base 500 with the 3cyl citroen and the panda 4x4 are manuals as there engines where never designed for a amt, rest in the ranges are amt and have been for years. renault not even the clios are manual- off memory good number of years ago the RS was the only exception but even they say that the next generation of that one will have to change. ford even with the fiesta is pretty much the same boat. bmw, audi, volvo yadda yada pretty much the same and higher the laddder less sticky wicky to get excited about. Nope! Its all down the eu standardised testing emissions and regs. they pay a ton load with every car that doesn't hit the emissions marker of FA suddenly. Which even when the manufacturers play to those rules but get round it they still get ouufed. When they are tested, If it has a eco button it must be pressed and used. This makes the car ecu have a super lean map and mass recycling of fumes to really reduce anything coming out of it but almost kills the engine. cos they know the car is being tested, short time in this mode is not great for it but really bad tong term. i had a 2014 fiat that had the "features" but wasnt a new party trick at the time even for a small "cheap" car but still played the game. They are tested in a temperature controlled room on a super smooth dyno with a computer controlled throttling at different speeds for a set time at a particular gear, even if the user will never drive it that high revs nor that gentle throttle application, ie like 10 mins at 30mph in 3rd gear, 50mph at..... Autos have a different test, they are just driven like above but the gearbox is left to decide what it needs, so at 30mph it could be preprogrammed to run at 5th or higher if it can... or higher again if the car thinks its being tested with lower revs and less emissions. About 10yrs ago toyota/ lexus with zf gearboxes i think had autos boxes with 8-9gears with it only being filtered down to scummy cars later on. Bmw (e63 mid 2000, f10 2010 at 7 and 8 speed) and mercs had them in their ranges agood few years ago, which in the last few years only the very last old engine base models kept the manuals but they are a obsolete engines now much to my neighbour dismay when i said to them when they was looking to change their car last year, anyway they only worked it out when they went to see the new cars... the other part of they cheekiness particularly with the german brands was when the car was stationary with the wheels locked dead centre but the engine was driven the car knew it was been tested so the car would choose the super lean map like i said before and a complete dog to drive if you was to try it..... but when it wasnt tested it went to its normal default setting that made the customer happy to drive a premium car but leads to killing kids, drowning polar bears, eco enthusiasts shout, khan and sunak very unhappy.

Possible but i think if the alarm is still wired to the sensor as sometimes they use the bikes own sensors and splice into the loom/wires to give the alarm the ability of thinking if it needs to go off rather than just the wind. plus a little piggybacking corrosion... so i think the real best option is to just take the piece of shit out, you dont need it and all the while its in there and still touching something its festering or feeding off something. a mate at garage spends most weeks completely removing the things cos they create so many problems even when power is disconnected.

If its ok it should be around 14.4 while the bike is putting charge back in, If its 12-13v that wont help put power back into the battery quickly but flagging the trip sensor is a big ask. The other things is resistive wire and connections checking due to its age/various people having a go at the loom just to throw another possibility. If enough resistance in the wires has built up it can flag up same as switching off sensors or relays too. if the bike starts and you rev it and the lights get slightly brighter its fine but if it stays the same its not putting enough in, Reg and stator needs looking at.

But you forget that most new cars are automatic as default nowadays and filtered even to superminis abet "automated" with nearly all being actuated manual transmission gearbox, so as it has no clutch for the user to operate by themselves its classed as a automatic ice or gwhizz power. I dont remember any electric cars being manual. Most instructors cars are new so when most small cars don't have them as options. so do most new drivers need to learn a manual? less likely and even more so in the coming years as old is scrapped and new is old. Especially when 80+percent are not car enthusiasts and just want something easy when they are stuck in jams or playing with their phones/infotainment system on the go. bikes are slower to come round to this but it will if the government keep squeezing motorcyclists with their overbearing daft logic, case in point with licence and parking Anyway on a happy note here is manual porn.

Check the spring, is it still in spec after all these years? What about the shocks? Ill be surprised if rhere is any dampening left. Seeming as your heavier than what was thought the average rider would be back in the day might be good for the bike and youself if the spring is capable of not smashing itself (both through and the return stroke) by a pebble let alone a pothole, a stronger progressive spring might be worth while. on another note. Yes using fork oil will be better than atf and starting at 10wt but dont be surprised if it still pogos and may require a thicker oil to control itself... misses has a 125 with emulsion forks on 2011. 10wt the thing pogoed at a stand still , making a corner was a 20pence job at best with cold sweats even under 60kg weight and the tyre wear showed it. We ended at 20wt for her as an big improvement but if it was up to me it would be a different spring with maybe a thicker 20wt from different brand to get that improvement from the stock kit or even a possibility going to mid 30s for her. The next step which would be close up or block off one of holes in the "std valve" or better yet replace that valve for an aftermarket unit. If it was mine id would be all that, then tweak the oil depending on how much adjustment the AM valve gives. with you going all out for this bike you might as-well carry on doing it well and not fail with the suspension.

Easy thing to check for first. Im gonna guess its a cable to butterfly arrangement, check the cable(s) from the throttle to the pulley attached to the injection. see if they are sticking but id say more like too slack so you are only giving the pulley half if that of the travel possible. This could be in the throttle cam in the grip housing (if its popped out of the groove), mid point tension which will be just above the throttle cam or mounted on the engine case or lastly pulley at the injection end.

Errrm its correct, dont know if your taking it literal from one perspective . in mechanical terms when fixing a lot of thing, cyl 1 its viewed on the left as you sit on the bike on top and from behind the airbox in most cases. But when doing a valve check you will be doing it (or should be) infront of the engine (facing the manifold) as the engine is tilted forward in the frame toward the front wheel. So cly 1 is the start or lead in the sequence which is on the right as correct in the drawing. cly2 ext valve is at the right side bottom of the drawing but if you was sat on top of the bike as riding it would be on the top left as the manifold is facing away. so they have spun it around for you to make it easy not to have to mirror think it over and muller rice it. does that make sense?

Sound like youve got a little vampire or shorts possibly. Does the bike have a immobiliser or alarm or tracker? if the battery is good enough to start a bike its fine for the system, so a sensor isnt gonna be bothered by it. is the sensor secured well enough? bolted in and in the correct way? The plastic housing if loose can fool it, Id be checking the relays too, if they are sticking or tripping that can make it think its sensor has gone off.

if you get no joy from the wheel bearing. Sound like rubbing to me. metal on plastics or metal on softer metal, difficult to tell with a phone but still better than just saying it thanks! does the sound change at different speeds, ie, go faster and it sound faster but the tone is the same? or does stay the same regardless? if it changes to speeds id check these: the chain is out of alignment, mud guard is rubbing or the to do with the caliper/pads. if doesnt change to the relation to the speed but to how much the bike revs or on/off load the exhaust/suspension bolts could be vibrating as they could be loose.

Yea your not the only one even the japs have done it, the honda firestorms were the same.

Remus is popular for that bike, but id agree with Fullscreen. any of the top main players you cant go wrong, main differences will be one might have a lower end growl while another might have a bit more acoustic to it, might be better to look at YT vids and hear which might be more pleasing to you. if you go whole system even a road one, keep the baffle in or could get massive holes on the power delivery, better will be to add a remap to your purchase.

The wifes Honda 125 is 8ltrs including the reserve and thats with the fuel pretty much touches the huge but shallow filler cap. 200+mls easy with plenty still in it to drown a sewer rat and get a bonfire going while i rode it like i stole it. p.s im not particularly keen on Honda's but amazed by it's frugalness. on another thought is the reserve light just comes on far too early. theoretically if its set up for it its possible the bike thinks its on low fuel it could be set up to run a super lean fuel map when this happens so thats why if may feel its struggling. to be honest id go off the miles...140miles is reasonable for first try and think then its 20+ on the reserve with a little spare. as bonio says dont worry, its just how it is and what you bought.

Well the only cheap solution that doesnt fall foul of the hells angels would be a roll up bag (makes u look like you tuff camp in the wild west) but actually has a few aluminium bottles of fuel in it. Other would be to make auxiliary tank's out that are inside the tasseled panniers, at least then we could call it the "baby tanker" with 48 plus litres of gas to travel 650+ miles on the highways.

No geof, you should see me when i am.

The frame and engine number will give a clue, the first 3 say where and who in code -jh2 for example is japan, honda, motorbik. digits four to eight is model code. on another note - at least the chain, sprocket, and front disc is ready for the bin.

Yep its a ickle babbbbbbby tank, design over function. it gets more interesting the more you look...when u need tyres changing other than at a dealership, dont be surprised so see the mechanic try their best of hiding not hating you...

freedom gas is always down the long, long, long straight road. No bull frog they are compulsory! By law of the bandanas and tats.

The other problem is with the design is that the pump placement doesn't allow it to suck it dry unless you can tip the tank around more than ull tip the bike so always see some fuel in there.