RideWithStyles

If the bike still had insurance under someones name and trusted someone on here with their own insurance that could ride other bikes they could move it on your behalf. if the bike pound isn't far from where you live nothing to stop it being pushed back, hard work i know but... well to make you smile, he does have a problem as he will be done for driving without a license and insurance which to put it frankly he's gonna get summons court and boned, so hes not gonna get away likely. if you don't have a license and you need to pay insurance they will be reluctant with cheap wuotes just for that as they really want the registrated keeper and owner to insure. You only need the insurance to ride it on the road, if it isnt ridden no insurance shouldn't be required. By the time youve paid out for the pound, and other stuff plusthe insurance you beeter hope this bike is worth thousands to make it worth while.

Also so they know what you house is like and whats in there...come back some time to help themselves for their bonus , but thats sterotyping of course .

Yes. well

Ermmm. On the first pic - forget the part on the right side. middle part might go into the handle bar, the bolt fits through the metal chrome and threads into the middle part and opens up like a bladder to stay in place.

Just finished watching the races, im a late watch due to family life. Toprak more than deserves to be champion again to me, especially in the final race... it would have been so easy and tempting for Raz's to Road Rash or do a Rossi to Bartista, shows the great mentality to the man.

if the gear change feels sloppy or seems to miss gear (lacking engagement) the chain is too loose. Oh just for more misery its a oil strainer so you're gonna have to take the right side engine case of to do it, spend hour or so picking and scraping the old gasket off and replace with a new one....all bolts are not the same lengths so you need to make sure you put the correct bolt back in, place bolts in criss cross pattern and final torque. definitely not one of hondas best ideas. Two things, the air filter and oil change is easy. Make sure the oil level check is done with the dip stick sat on top of the case and not screwed in.

Hi welcome

Yep choose unwisely and pay twice is the old saying.

Dont bother with 10wt for those forks, a thick 15 or better yet a 20wt, otherwise the front pogos even with those soft springs in. hargon and yss do sensible priced shocks, nothing fancy just basic road one will do.

Not needing to buy tryes yet. No point buying new tyres when the shock will just kill those set of tyres before they're due, and if the shock has more degradation to go it will do it faster.

Yes. The rear tyre is showing signs, looks like shark tooth between the tread at 45 and 75degree angle. Place your hand on the tyre and cup it gently, Run your hand to and opposite direction of the tyre, when you go towards the engine your fingers and outer palm will drop slightly but when you head back to the back of the tyre(back the way you came) your fingers and outer palm will catch the back tread. So because the shock is worn out (not controlling damping) when you are cornering the rear will be moving up and down too fast and smacking the tyre tread more so creating the dips and raised back edges. When the shock is cold its will either be too slow if the spring is stiff and the oil /gas is gone or it will be soft on the rebound. So when it warms up it and you push down it will pogo back up too fast and either smack the top out, skip up / bobble twice or more after the first push down, like a jelly. It needs to come up once only in a controlled manner not return soo fast that it hits its top out and shakes the bike.

Ive just seen a suggestion of 25-35mm but that is a newer model. Id hover the 25mark to be safe

I was just gonna say it looks skack. Also from the pic the shock looks like its worn out.

Chain looks abit slack from the pictures. Slack should be 15-25mm but if its at the upper end of that that can upset the pick up and first gear slap or sloppy gear changes so keep it at the 15-20 mark.

If its not seeing the sensor or thinks its out of place for start up of the stroke it wont start. If so take the front sprocket cover off and give the area (even behind the sprocket) a right good and mean RIGHT GOOD CLEAN... poor little fella bunged up with labe and crap...

Yea id go with clutch cable first. is it able to move fully within its outer sleeve, is the pivot points clean and greased, adjustments set correct?

Whoa whoa...nothing that drastic is required. Simples the shock oil is coming to the end of its useable state! So now it old when its cold it will be slightly firmer at first than normal (new oil and gas) but when it gets just the slightest warmer it will stay thinner or go even thinner when heated up but not proportionately the same as to when its new. Hence why when you got it to a hot temperature you noticed it more than if you was in bligty and hand to slow it down and turn the damping up. if i explain the range in numbers to get you to see. If new its 3 movement when cold and 6 movement in hot, when the oil and gas is old it can be -1 cold movement and 11 hot movement and the oil molecules and the additives have been broken up. factory oils are cheaper and will degrade quicker than aftermarket oils even from the same supply of manufactures like motul rock oil etc. if the shock have a small canister mounted to the shock directly or with a hose most which will be serviceable. just a simple removal, clean, reoil and gas. Pop back in.you can get the dealer to do it or Find a suspension specialist near you or send it out. if its an old bike without the can it might not be serviceable so either buy a used one or a aftermarket one... also to note if your shocks oil has gone off then the forks oil will definitely be worn out now if it hasn't already been changed recently. quality shock are more sensitive to changes because of the design and as they have more adjustment naturally. so the the window of needing adjustment as it ages will be more often than if it was a stock shock with 4 or 8 clicks of adjustment compared to a shock of 20+.

Scared of the dark , must have been mis treated... Wife cbf in our early tendership did things like that. Sounds silly, its just a sensory thing. roll the bike forward out of gear a bit say 1/4mtr try to start it, if not roll 6or 9 inchs and try again. If not try move it while its in first gear and start it again (out of gear or in gear but clutch in if it allows) Sounds silly but if the sensor isnt quite in the right place if its moved or covered in shite it wont start or even possibly stalls at pick up.

Yep sounds more like chain. when you raised the camera away but at certain points the sound is completely dampened out from the camera to pinpoint it. does the ticking rise and lower with the timing of little blimps of the throttle or on idle? so new tensioner and guide at least. also i noticed a new cam cover or has it just been painted? Has a rodney been at the bike? if you ask if it needs a valve check it probably is due one anyway? If you gonna have to change the tensioner might aswell do the valves while you're there.

Looks very nice. Cold 10-20c now you're sounding like a southerner!!! 800rpm idle for a single seem very low to me, tou could try 1100 at least. Wife's 125 single is HOT idle 1500 +-100 but cold is up to 1800-2000+ and the ktm i had before was 1500-1800 hot and cold somewhere around the same as old bike. the usa versions of pretty much all bikes were purely Californian emissions so more to do with recycling air back to the air box or restricting exhaust. engine oils grades make a difference too.

great job by the way, enjoying the thread! Not an expert with this bike but it looks correct from the picture. Guard wider and longer at the front past the head light... sod the engine and frame getting pletted but did a good job at not spattering ur face with fling even when stood up. where as more modern bikes and road spec went a different trend with opposite effects.

Mr MegaBump

Agree with husoi, wemoto is great for most bikes like that and sports bike for some other parts. Same as the wifes 2011 cbf. most websites will quote 10w-40 but if you're using it over winter the bike will be happier especially from cold with 10w-30 and in summer won't burn anymore, so id stick with 30 also dont bother with fully synthetic but dont pay over the odds for ester base oils. Unfortunately you're bike is on the cups of change so yours will be a internal oil strainer, that means taking the case off with means extra cost and faff with replacing the case seal, Best to change oil a bit before the book says so which is really easy and cheap to do while avoiding having to do the strainer job as often. Yep they dont hold alot at under a litre, check the oil level with the dip stick sat on top of the case and NOT SCREWED IN, you want it slightly at the upper end of the gauged min-max limit. CHeck oil level every 2nd to 4th fuel tank. bike runs happier with better cold starts with E5 fuel. plug should be ngk cpr7ea9. 9mm gap with 16nm torque. the air filter is 180* reversed charging so its under the seat further back than others which is good cos its easy to get to and avoids putting tons of crap directly into it so rarely needs changing. Ours done 13000miles and it didnt even need it but just did it out of point of buying a service pack at the time as it was cheap.

trackers in most cases are useful tools but do still come with drawbacks, not as bad as alarms and immobilisation mind you. All work off gp signals but only the more premium ones also have other means to help. All depends on the setup you have or willing to make. As Gero says, if you have a small ah lithium bike battery and another on the tracker they wont last long if they have to work alot without a charger especially if its only a summer/Sunday toy, so a data tool has that pitfall. If the bikes battery is weak and the tracker is drained its not that much use which xase the insurance will ask why didn't you charge it? try to wiggle out of it. if you can't charge it then the monimoto is a good way to go but insurance companies wont discount on that unit but its very cost effective and reasonable for what it offers not to be considered which to me insurance should atleast reconsider them slightly. Most trackers dont gain much in return of a discount off the insurance to offset the price and subscription from experience. With more bikes being pcp for some people its not their bike anyway, only with a few years of their responsibility so less incentive unless its a really rewarding bike for the five finger discount crew. if it was already on the bike without aftermarket purchase then it maybe worth having as a used buy but not to pay a premium on compared to one that didnt. Joy riders will do what they do, their unescorted ride might be shorter but you'll be lucky if you still get it back in the same condition you left it. Cos breakers/stripping scum are wise to these things what they do is move it, dump it in semi plain sight, return a while after to see if its collected by the owner/recovery/flopps. If not then it's reasonably safe from a tracker and move it to a slightly better place to look for a tracker (just incase it's been watched) and do their flithy deeds to it.