RideWithStyles

a few pounds, shillings and pence back then. Would have been abit of a beast back in the day, salivating mineral oil on the floor. Cor Yep rim brakes baby! Braking in a timely manner as to not disturb the flat cap or wifes bonnet. even royal enfield wouldn't make um like that anymore.

Agree with Megaross. Just dont bother its not worth it for those bikes for sod all gains, the biggest restriction is not the airbox, its loads of other little part within the whole bike not just one component. If your keeping the bike long term you could just stick to the usual and swap it out for a K&N (others are available) replacement panel filter at service time.

Love the portamao track, would really like to do a track day there! Toprack and his skilled antics always raises a smile...Loved how Phil his chief mech gave a smile thinking "flyboy" when watching it. when he swings the back end out (hand brake turn) perfectly 90degrees so the bikes the right way to wheel it backwards into the pit when toprack got in said did it look good? then phil said yeah yeah low key ("cough" impressed) but thought job in hand said keep it down. Hopefully he can bully the BmW to stopping into corners next year? theres definitely a upper Crew/management with blinkers/single minded thoughts which is hindering progress. Bradley could definitely do well with another year, a good packaged full time bike but that will take empty seats and big money to do that. Wonder if Loccatelli can't improve next year if that might be a possibility? surprised Ducati kept Rinaldi on for soooo long while bassani was just left in the independent team for ages while a carrot dangled in the distance of a factory ride, i mean hes even Italian so its pretty much a instant seat with them, bit of a poor management and oversight there. Petrucci's had a few dings with his transition but settling in and does well given his stature goes against him abit, he's more to earth and very likeable. shame Rea hasn't had much success this year but to watch the mans skill and determination to override what is probably a weaker package with traits it can't show with its rivals in infront or tow for long. Be interesting now to see what he makes of the Yam.

If this a permanent fixture? Is the ground your going to use even tarmac? You can cut that out 8-12inch square (depending on the anchor size) dig about the same amount down or more if possible but taper it out slightly like a trapaziod under the layer of mac so the tarmac and concrete have tapered sides to support each other. Fill it in with cement and different stone filler in stages if you can? if its paved just the same but lift out some of the bricks. if its a permanent fix then with the anchor bolts in the unit and opened up some what (splayed out) push into the crete and open the bolts some more and leave. If not then sit the anchor on the top of the final layer so its more with it (stuck) than just sat ontop with fitting it with rhe bolts afterwards . Or support the weight with sticks or bar. i have the oxford docking station which ive hhad for years and at the time one of the very best you could get but needs quite large space and needs quite specific chain to work of 14cm link so the bolt goes through the inner link but not to big that the outer link rubs on the plate. Oxford beast anchor is a chonky one thats smaller than the DS but does require really big chains that can be ideally looped. if you for a looped one, spinner is more convenient but weaker. Outer plate are a bit flatter but wider and requires longer chain to accommodate. when placing make sure its easy enough for you to undo but not so easy that you trip over it every day and theres less space for scum to get at it. So chose your anchor wisely. I quite liked the idea of the whiskey barrel plant pot idea, well if the barrel had whiskey still in it. Cut out part of the wood to just tight fit the anchor and duck tape the thing in place from both sides. Put some solid scap steel metal blocks or bearings in first from a engineering place, fill it just over halfway with crete and leave to set. Drill for the bolts and your done. Fit a ever green holly plant on the top

Gave the car a service of oil, filters and plugs much needed. Durty filters and oil are 6,500 miles old but the plugs are unknown age or mileage but at least 15thou, have a bit of chamfer to the back node especially the left plug which is cylinder 4 thats gets most varieties from least coverage. wifes cbf service as its due a mot this month but not done a big serviced for a couple of years due to less activity. No where near as grubby as oldgrumps bike and his southern cider water but still good to do. still need to do my bike yet which this will be my first with it. every-time i had chance stepped out it was either trying to rain or a neighbour wanted a chat. Hopefully this weekend.

Not quite but similar to old biddies falling over responding kits, it's not a bad idea really but does rely on upto date subscription and a phone signal.

Ideally your meant to run in and let it bed in before any high demands from the engine and gearbox. After the running in period it will get better but dont be surprised if it takes a couple of thousand to fully bed in. no point changing exhaust on those things so thats just a waste of money and "rollers"? Do you mean the cvt rollers or tyres? Tyres might be a good call especially if its gonna be ridden in winter as stock tyres can be questionable, Michelin if they do it for that bike.

Agree,

Yep if the batts swollen not from the cold or natural hot heat, its over charging so first point is its rec thats gone. as its job to convert/even out/distribute the voltage/amps from the stator Old hondas have a habit to kill recs quite alot but had decent stats that were just around the limit with abit of age degradation while the triumphs for the sprint and daytonas had a poor stats from the off so after afew years of degradation that gave the recs a hard time which gave them shorter lifespan.

Just another thought. Spins over fine you say when its out but is it weak? When its under strain of internal compression is it really cranking over enough?

Yes. so its a separate paper filter that fits inside a canister like older bmw cars and modern minis. So its abit messer than a metal can but luckily way better than the older bikes internal strainer. Ensure you use the lubed oring supplied, pre oil the filter if possible and torque the cap.

Well for some reason eurosport hid the second race and put it on the highlights. sayin out right now I don't have a favourite rider or team, i just like the racing and seeing what makes each one tick or drags along. the safety car release, within the rules but very much smudged and . I know they were very much bunched before the back straight to try and keep within drafting distance. Anyway its done now and keeps it very close, almost as if it was planned . Roll on the next race . talking about professionalism. Mr Higgs was viewed on tv at cadwell park on the grid/paddock lane while he was looking at the sky to see if it was gonna rain for that race-how can i say this without Stu banning me...male private time self satisfaction signs reply to a fellow person who was on the pitlane. leaving Niall filling in "Errrm im not sure what mr Higgs is indicating about" . Alistar Seely having fist ti cuffs and actually psychically punching someone multiple times with full tv coverage at Oulton previously. just ashame the taller olsen was holding the bike up at the time while in the gravel trap otherwise it would have been nearly as entertaining as the racing, got off quite likely with a few points docked.

, classic Nick.

When i had the 500 naked i was even going to do a birthday anniversary thing. Planned for ages to Ride from the north of england through france and to the bottom of spain at either arrgon or jerez to watch either wsbk or possibly motogp and i wouldnt have planned all that if the bike or me wasnt up ro it, but then covid messed that up... bike like a super duke or a sx etc are still pronominal and potential machines still more than enough for the road if not for general track dayers!

Are you? there is a reason why the sales of these bikes are low compared to roadsters like the mts, speeds, streets, 700s. Yes they are so much sharper, more focused on track work than ever before so on the road they are more of a pain to put up with unless ur Dani pedestal with years of yoga torture. which also means, temperamental to a seasoned rider let alone a titanic rusty one . so being even more crouched up into a fetal position awaith all the weight on your wrists,knees bent as far as possible with the ankles as high half way up your arseand ankles at 70degree much more comfortable while doing 20-70ish...not called marques while at catalunya . your old bike is a leisurely soft sports tourer at best these days. They can be still if not more scary and you can still hurt yourself just the same just faster... difference will be another level of management to wad through, trusting a geeks computer algorithm and wiring is the same as your needs/requirement and the penny pinching account. The kit is better like the brakes and the suspension, means you can set them up to a point out of the box but really the base setting is for average to very fast track days with a whiff of being able to and from the track without killing you on the first damp/wet main road you come too. you can tame them down to a point with the aids but when they do most tend to be sort of suddenly and not liner the higher the level you go so annoying and intrusive...like controlling through honey or computer takes over suddenly when ur not expecting it...would tou like your phone/computer to do that? then you might expect that the other part of the system might want to kick in cos some else happened. They should be viewed as an aid on the track to mop up the last tenths and try to avoid the gravel trap if possible not ride the thing for you but they are all still fallable. if your gonna dumb it down that much then whats the point? If it just for show of wealth, first impressions of "must have skill" or just ghetto then go ahead. Go to a dealership and stay seated on the bikes solely in the proper riding position(s) for about 20-30mins each...that will give you a quick glance, if the sale dude wants to get you off the bike quickly he knows you're testing the position and will definitely lose a sale on that bike as your body will most likely win the argument especially when adter purchase, wether they direct you to a more fitting bike (roadster) that would be a intelligent salesman not just out for first big swagbag. im still going with what you said by your own words, still think you just need to see focus on the foundation first before the roof. Id stick to a sensible bike first (mid to 3/4 capacity roadster) while you relearn riding, yourself and catching up with the times, even if its a used bike that's inbetween "the dream and the reality" then you know whats really spot on for you afterwards for a long term ideal bike. If its a style thing, many other manufacturers avoid the manga/transformers, triumph, ducati, bmw (less boxers now), aprillia, ktm, moto guzzi, mv to name afew. id check insurances, youve been out of the game so id be surprised if they charged you fondly with you new silverstone beater straight away. Brother tried similar to you only two differences, he was less than 8years since he last rode and the bike was still more realistic road bike re wanted to insure in the first place yet the cost was still way out there (£****'s) so he got a SV650 which even he said was a good fun bike, So check first. they have changed too, even a tiny drop an insurer might just write the bike off as its alot of ifs and buts with cost to them. which you the claiment still pay for in the years afterwards with history. I saw a barely two year old gxsf (7-8kvalue easy) that still looked mint, it had a low speed drop less than 20mph of one lighly panel scuffed, end can scuffed with the pipe slightly bent towards the swing arm but not rubbing afterwards when picked up, they still wrote it off but garage bought it off them cos they could still make some money from its light damage. what do you think a 20k trackday bike with full fairing, electrical package yada yada will cost and there view...

Might have to call you "Buster Gonad" now

Agree with Megaross and bender. Hill holder is a nice first level safety net /feature just like ABS is. It is viewed as not to be outright dependent on it incase it pops a fuse or just decides to not work, after all if fails on a car its not generally bad but if a bike system fails and the rider can't do a hill start...at best a-fall over accident will happen. the rear brake...one less thing for the hands to do plus the rear brake has a softer, has a smoother action for releasing or if it gets held for slightly longer than ideal if it gets abit fluffed up for new riders. Racers are different an quite happy to kill a clutch for every race session and to which point the quote could be a reference to a different topic as the same with it was for schwantz back in the day ie ref to he never used the rear brake "for slowing down to corner entry"... Learning and training now is more focused on trying to avoid having to use them in the first place, looking for and predicting possible outcomes while on the road to reduce the likelihood of needing them in the first place which is a good thing.

Been there and suffered it so your not alone and certainly wont be the last. just dont be tempted to demmel it. think if i was a jap designer that wanted to stop an normal European person "gorilla" taking this off and made sure the dealer tech could earn some money from "it takes time" while thinking of mental torture techniques....where would i hide them?

Pretty much Anything in the last 20 years will have brought something new and improved over you old r1 and feel lightyears ahead so might be good to get that perspective out of the way, The world has moved on and even low priced bikes are better spec'd. Get what fits your body thats closest out of the box or be prepared to shell out more buying adjustable bits to make it less extreme for you first. don't be drawn to flashy specs as they are not much use on the road. Ive got a old "semi sports" semi faired 600 4cyl now and yes its better to some degree with a fairing which is 4 times bigger than modern bikes but you still have to crunch up under its double bubble to get the benefit so with a superbike its proper migget jockey time. if your touring or slogging loads of motorway miles you'll notice but if this is a weekend toy and back roads warrior you wont really benefit to offset the discomfort from the body position it will put you in. our old R1 was making in the region of 150bhp but yamaha rarely made that figure out of the box, closer to 140mark realistically, now they are all 220+monsters with 110+mph in first gear prison territory. a V2 is more like in sprite at 150hp but just a shit load torque lower down the rev range at 77ftlb WITH JUST TWO CYLINDERS, would give great great grandfather R1 a fair fight in any toptrump category you'd like to choose, but again it's still quite an extreme machine. i had a 1000 sports then went down to a naked 500 twin is 120mph from just a lowly 46hp...hitting 100 and passing cars was still easy to do as you was always in the power band even with big wide bars and no bikini screen to hide behind while i rode all year round. big step down i know but thats life..it was ok as the twin had instant stomp and drive similar to a ducati back in the day if i was to put it in perspective for you. engine configuration makes a big deal on how they operate and interact so choose wisely. Even low powered 3/4 ltr as manufacturers call them "Roadsters" are not that shy off what you had back in the day but more torque lower down which for the road is bettEr and more fun let alone low stressed 1000 roadsters. Or as tou said you couldn't tap into that potential back then of the ancient R1 (in todays terms) so the problem you may experience with a modern r1 is being even more lazy (scared shittless) and possibly feel inadequate for the machine? even ex racers have saying and a joke " better to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow and every year goes by thinking they were faster in the day". In true real world public road use a naked bike is faster. if i was to suggest a reasonable "status" bike and go some way with a nod to "tour" a sports tourer is a better idea , A bike like a Kawasaki Ninja 1000 h2 /h2sx which has a super charger, certainly aint slow and sounds awesome. if you just want born again/midlife crisis pose about for about 30mins before crying in agony, or just for trackdays? feel free on the modern superbike. But if you want to ride on the road and feel like you can get some accessible engagement and enjoy out of it, a roadster / sports tourer would be wiser and wont feel it's a let down to a "status you once had". so it might sound brutal but it's accurate, But im sure someone will jump on shortly to say otherwise.

Yes, Assuming you mean by your current method is bleeding it dry and no brake fluid coming through? Try it while the ignition is on and the pump is primed.

Thought it read vibrator at first!!!. anyway as rant but tiggie says you're not gonna get more out especially with the cvt transmission. wife has a honda 125 cbf with air cooled 8bhp manual, would max out to the rev limiter at about 60-65 off memory so real speed knock a few mph off as indicated but willing to pull more, i changed the front sprocket one tooth up just so it wasnt pinging its face off on the flat let alone down hill. now the mid range is a touch slower but it gains easy over 10mph (as its capable to pull it) and just avoids the limiter down hill on the motorway..prison. but with the cvt you'll struggle to do that easily.. youll just have to put up with it, look for something else or possibly if license and money allowed upgrade.

Im not familiar With this newer model as i/we have a earlier model but they are generally put together fairly similar, bare with us. Pics help. anyway with honda design they layer and over lapping them and have popper fitments too to hold them together. So you may have to take off a-lot more off the bike just to get a simple part. you might have to take the side panels off first (each side of tank but just below), most likely will be 6 bolts and at least one but could be two poppers holding each the side on. The bare minimum will One on top to the cock pit, one down the other side but lower down, one in the middle closer to the engine, one down the back behind the middle calf plastic part under the seat, plus the poppers. remember they do have a habit of hiding bolts behind a different panel next to it(laying), so that will need loosening or removing before hand. Then the clocks, will have to come out so you can get to the bolts holding the front screen and surrounding..then the light unit and have ultra flexible baby hands help. yep its a pain in the arse.

and welcome,

Hi! Pictures when weather is noce would be good.

Oh wait or did you just buy the tshirt???.