RideWithStyles

In Scotland and Newcastle i thought the law of tshirst only to show up the pansie southerners? . This time of year. textiles- long sleeve top and Heated vest.. leather/denim for mild days- long sleeve, maybe jumper, heated vest. if colder add a layer. if no heated vest id have many thermal layers and wished i had on the heated vest.. .

955i black and white days?? is still with the same owners now and saw it in colour on the big screen.... sure its the same tac as other manufacturers use to recycle components even if its well known for failure, like honda for their very long saga of rectifiers for nearly 20years. And the weird swap over years with different components manufacturers we have on the wifes bike and some of the previous cars (german and Italian). anyway most disc warp due to the bobbins left to fester. the spring hub isnt that what customs, cruisers and hd normally have?

So you dont want to be using more than 1/3 of the stroke with u on it. when you go on a normal ride, look at the shocks piston shaft. if tou cant see a tiny fresh ring of dirt on the shaft and more than likly you should at this time of year, odds are your blowing throw the whole lot and hitting the bump stop, add preload. If you see a ring thats less than 3/4 down then less preload, thats with your use case with this bike as is for what little adjustment you have on this bike.

Yep so easy to do...

Check after when ridden to get the oil/gas and linkages warmed up. Now i say this route as what you should do to all of your bikes if you dont know what or why. Stand on left side of bike slightly more the seat, this is SAG test as a start point: Tilt bike level and raise the rear of the bike by the pillion grab rails. If you can raise the back of the bike (within its suspension stroke) to its top out point alot (more than 10mm) the starting preload is not enough, if when u try to raise it but there is no suspension stroke but ur actually picking the bike up(suspension top out) the preload is too much or possibly the spring is too stiff but thats hardly ever unless ur really light weight. see what its like with you on...on its side stand measure between two fixed points ie wheel axle and a sticker or a body work crease on the tail, Tilt up right and push down on the seat to make sure the suspension isn't sticking then sit on the bike upright with normal kit on, best if you have the help of the wife and measure the same points again- how much more did the bike sag when you got on? between 30 to 40 is considered good guide for average road use depending on shock setup and linkage, so with your 127mm wheel stroke but shock is 43mm stroke and a direct link id keep it on the tighter side of figures but id say this for general use case if sags more than 40mm (add more preload) id less than 20mm (lessen preload).

Oh and p.s looking at your picture on a different thread you defo need more preload on that shock.... and if it has a damping adjustment turn that in abit too (slow/harder).

Yup hes right not worth the risk, time or effort. Plenty of proper traders about like SBD, wemoto, smaller dealer franchises, aftermarket, hell even small fabrication firms...

Cant think why not eh stu? Bidders and the proceeds go to charity??? Just a thought.

Nope, they need to concentrate on quality control, poor manufacturing, poor aftersales, part supply rather than littering and over flooding the markets with their spewing products.

Pls!

Yeah got a engine case clutch actuator rod for the thundercat from a uk scrapper Birmingham way once when the chain broke at 60+ and made abit of a mess , nope a good bit shorter than it should of been, sure it came from a fazer of about the same era they obviously thought it would fit....

Said it, make a coaster, parts holder or bag the inside working of a manky Clock and use the disc as a case / background man clock... anyother ideas guys?

Luckily i wear a helmet then....

Yeah it will be a push fitment/bladder inside the tube.

Yea ive just put black tape crossed up over the plates when ive had to ride the wifes bike for longer journeys (motorway use) but for everything else i haven't really bothered cos it more important that a beginner or restricted license holder has the plates on to make other road users know... mind you you dont have get some puzzled looks when you bag a few over takes on cars etc and they see the little bike with a topbox and L plates .

Cool good . How many miles have you done with the bike (how many fill ups?) anf how much 2strome oil has it used out of 1.3ltrs so far? No it doesnt have a dip stick or window just miles and age it should be changed. It would make sense to change it if you can, if you don't know if its done you might aswell make sure. No the bolt (decent sized one) should be at the back of the drive shaft sticking out level with the bike next to the brake adjuster, you can just siphon it out if you want with a bendy pipe and a syringe or bendy pipe and one way valve, like a vacuum brake bleeder kit. To fill back up (120ml capacity) fill it up level with the drain plug casing (till it flows back out) and thats it. if not engine at fault lack of oil? Then is the belts, pulleys, bolts all correctly torqued?

Don't underestimate the potential possibility fear and stupidity one can have. at least the spooda survives, +1 for nature!

Do you understand the two stroke engine? Not sounding silly just to make sure we're on the same page... Two stoke oil needs to be fed with the fuel additive (oil) this is either done directly mixing the oil in the petrol tank or in a separate container that the bike syphons out of for you that might need adjusting or cleaning out. it should be about 3 percent oil to fuel, so how many miles has it been since up had it? the gearbox oil drain plug should be at the back of the casing next to the brake disc. If you believe the book its either fix and not to be replaced or with my thought every couple of years or 8000miles or so.

Hello and welcome, good luck next time. Tip- look for reflections on car doors and windows on the other side of the road at junctions if vision is not clear, this will give a few moments of notice especially now cars have daytime lights on. also look through widows of vehicle's ahead to see if owt is hiding behind them.

Yeah you wont find many options off the shelf for that bike. Might be better to find if a motorcycle exhaust company (possibly a car one if your really struggling) near you will fabricate a new one for you? It would mean leaving the bike with them for a few days or sending them the old one? fuel, black widow, scorpion, pipewerx.

Depends on whats up with it and why? Goosed software or hardware? Keys are coded to immobliser which in turn can be coded to the ecu...if you change that its needs to know thats its partner now so you need a electrical software engineer or well fitted garage (often used to ecu programming). why are you paying for it?? It comes with A yamaha two year warranty, guess the dealer doesn't want to let you have their curt bike for 5 months which isnt your problem!

If it was piston it would be dead dead or in bits, ahhh just double checked and its a two stoke version... shall we chat about what oil youve been putting in and how much? Does this have a oil autofeeding system? If so how much has it been using to fuel ratio?

. Dont get me started on that insurance stance on that bs..

First two will be good contenders off the bat for first look especially if they have adjustable seats as std or purchase separately, give you options. You will fit a hypermotard or better the strada as its less focused machine but both are more then enough for your growing experience and i would change the tyres to good sport touring tyres first thing on my ownership but will it be abit too focused? That's something only you will know, on how your gonna plan the use the bike. Motards small tank will only bug if you plan to do lots of long distance rides into very rural areas and different riding style you might or not like?? its a personal thing, these are not a knee out sort of bike but more a sit on the front inside seat and push you leg out front to encourage turn consistently at any real speed or confidence at really slow and tight corners as you keep yourself more upright/level and throw the bike about abit more to load the forks and front tyre. if you try knee out it sort of behaves differently (sort of throws mild shapes) and thinks "WTF are you doing???" Thats what i found out on the ktms. iLl be surprised if the Duc is any different. Once you click with them its actually easier and pretty fun. the harley, short legged and long armed people fit better in general, bit like sitting on small toilet or kids chair while trying to play snooker and feet drums. Your upper body shouldnt be to bothered, it will arch you back a little somewhat depending on bar choices this mmight not bother you though but you'll have to consider your legs, especially the ankles for the feet control as they'll be acute so the upper anckle will have to pull up when there isnt much left to give, unless you are a ski jumper? is there enough adjustments in the foot levers for you to be comfortable? Maybe another harley that might give better choices but I aint looking through all that right now.

Oxford has been fine for me, if i was gonna be picky it would be that the cable and connection could be better but at the time waycheaper and additional parts (extension cables or additional battery connectors) easy to get. ctek are more from the car European world off memory? Certainly not cheap or as easy to get as the optimate, which if the oxford charger ever dies, opti will be its replacement.