RideWithStyles

Hi and welcome. No ignorance at least you asked! what license are you going to be limited to? What use? Manual or automatic? Commuting, pleasure? City or rural most cases? Your height and weight may have a bearing as some have found out. more questions will follow from your reply and other people.

Hi and hope it goes well. MLC lol. Second fiddleSticks: Try on at reputable stores as JandS and SBD. helmets that fits priority no1 in line with breathing, no ifs or buts.....period. Try on at shop and keep it on for at least 5-10mins to see if any biting,pinching, pressure points with the straps done up just incase its set back too are and trys to dig in your neck/throat. Styles is a case of what you want to ride and what your gonna be doing? brand- just the main big brands if possible but the brands have a head shape that they design to and youll figure out what works for you. just note that there are shell sizes and cheaper end (especially flip front) have one shell to cover xxs-m another shell to m-xxxl and just use padding to fill out so if you a m would you want a shell thats ment to be xxxl, looking like a bobble head? That makes it heavier and bulky with extra drag on the head So be aware. one manufacturers particular model large might not the the same large for a different model let alone other makes. flit front or normal if its city and every day then flips are a decent choice but cheaper end of market may weigh abit more but way better than 10 or more years go... clothing: depends on what your gonna use it for, all year? Summer, Commuting, pleasure? What bike style and size are you thinking of? Each goes hand in hand. again keep on and try hold in the riding position, does anything nip or tight spots? pinlock visor insert helps stop fogging is good especially in cold and winter. .

Yep I remember the hoover pipes bikes, looked at getting the 400 as a first bike yonks ago cor so cool . Let me share some information with you. So lighter than the average who was it designed for? Male and or female, Asian market, European, American? Closer to a small skinny teen or extra baggage 70 year old? Now most of the time the suspension internals and springs never change between markets and what each manufacturer thinks is right for the designed bike, updates at periodic times maybe but that will be due to supplier making the changes. So your a few kg less than me () now with my bike as standard settings it handled sloppy and crashy all the same time and im most likely less weight than the average euro but more than the asian buyer, i STILL had to add a notch of preload for SOFT set up solo due to the laughable amounts of dead space which eaten into close to have the travel, then two for a very SOFT set up with topbox on for the preload on my bike from what the manufacturer stated for my bike as stock settings for bikes are guessed and thats before a pillion or any other item i care and could fit to the bike. If i wanted normal setting it would be one more again which i may do as ive just changed the tyres. Id say its safer if its checked at least you will know rather than leave to assuming. one thing to also note that because your really far back you are leveraging more on the suspension so even though thinking your lighter your more like a pillion and deemed heavier to the spring so the travel on the shock is lower down the shaft eating into what travel is available to you (think of a chopper) the if it's progressive spring your immediately into the stiffer part which you dont want off the bat.. Question to ask yourself is the spring progressive or linear? If it's progressive whick part is soft point ( 1/8, 1/4, 1/2?) to the harding and max point (1/4,1/2/ 3/4?). you really do need it in the correct place of where it sits and starts to work best when you need it not before or after those points. Otherwise its gonna be hitching itself at different points compared to the forks if honda worked the number close enough. rear looks a bit lower than the front from the picture, which possibly might be lifting up the front. if you say it feels ok on speed bumps and humps?(humps rather than pot holes? ). If its low down in the stroke of the forks / shock it will feel better only for that as there will be loads of dead space above for lift but youll be eating into your lower travel which is really important. Your forks have 110mm travel which is quite short so with the dual bend valve (which is just a cheap valve) working quite early you'd have thought but where is that starting to work and which point does it stop usefully? shock has 127mm travel apparently with direct link and ill guess its progressive with those numbers so its important to get that right. test the measurements as below after a ride to make sure the oils/gas and linkages are warmed up, especially if a bike has had 4000+miles of usage without fork oil change (especially factory filled) and shock checked. with the bike level how much lift in mms of the rear has without you on it? ideally you need some lift of 5-10mm in general tight road form to in some cases of bike (racing, dirt or adventure) 20mm or more of raising to the shock top out. That is called static sag, the purpose of that is to allow a bit of space so you dont get your arse smacked by top out while trying to keep the wheel on the ground as the shock returns especially after raised bumps, If its more than that figure it needs more preload, if less, less preload. same with rule with forks but the number are slightly more, starting point 15-20mm sag. these figures are important to stick to as you dont have the adjustablilty to cope with aging or heat variables of the fluids and gas in those components. Then how much does the bike sink into its stroke with you on it? If it sinks an extra 20mm from its normal position (just bike weight) there is too much preload, if more than 40mm there isn't enough preload. If it's between those numbers your somewhere there which can be tweaked depending on the internal setup and how it feels to you. Ramp or castle nut adjusters as they are sometimes called on the shock preload are not liner due to manufacturing tolerances and / or they might have done it like non liner that due to the progressive spring that it may have selected for that bike and only have so many step given that they deemed should be enough while If you have a twin ring set up its very adjustable.

And there was me thinking it was all for style and just to stop you going fast by the air lifting your head up and back .

Same

Yea all above just school it... aleast one thing if you do so happen to drop it you dont have to pay for it.... even tyre wear of a celebrity burn out afterwards!

Per

11 st dry or is that with full kit on. questions to ask your self: have you checked how much sag is there while your on the bike? How much travel in the forks and shock are you currently using? If not then how do you know they are ok? manufacturer doesn't know who will be buying it, under 5ft to 6ft 8, 40kg to 120+kg so how do you know its set for you? Dealer wouldnt have done anything to it for you...

Agree with Full scrren, i think there were better options for your body dimension without having to buy a over powered bike, but their are thing to mitigate the problems. Due to your very long thighs is pushing your arse really far back in the seat which your groin is two or more fist sized gaps to the tank just like that position let alone trying to push yourself back to a bit more tuck which you'll struggle to do as your already pretty much at the pillion cowl now which is not helping you get grip and balance. im assuming your an office worker of something like that so because youve got quite long arms it doesnt seem to discomfort you. One other note is your having to over bare (from above and down) the bars, so when braking your hands almost try to roll over the grips and upper body tries to do the same (throw you over the top) as you COM is way higher than the bike. so youll be fighting rolling over the front of the bike more than say a 5ft 7in pserson. Which is putting more pressure into the forks and tyres down. This also waste's energy pushing prominently down and out in a vertically down on the bars to turn rather than along in the horizontal line. how much do tou weigh? Picture not brill but you might already be bottoming out the forks and the rear shock might need adjusting to cope with you. Tyres pressure you running it on at the mo? picture of the fork santions, shock shaft and tyres wear will give clue.

Got to remember you are quite tall at 6ft four and thin build off memory? Ideally you want as much of the inside thigh to have contact with the tank and possibly top of the knee to have extra perches on any tanks cut out? I suspect all youve got is the tiny amount on the inside of the knee, side of the kcap maybe a less than a pin pong balls worth? Food for thought and to think about: if your tall and trying to get a slight tuck or raised up on that bike with the positions while the bikes bars, pegs and seat at standard setting out of the factory you it might have you hunched up like a scared cat or a massive dog trying to hump a small one which then your knees will to pointing down below the tanks optimum contact area... while in a tuck the knee might be further back and higher which might at first be the actual decent position for the knee but when your braking or your having to move out of that spot. Ehhh maybe? a side view picture of you on the bike as you sit up normally riding 30zones and then one in a comfortable lowered almost racing tuck. so depending on how you are sitting and into relation to the bike designed contact points slight alignment of pegs and or bars might just give you the extra help you need?

Thanks. Yes correct, most of the time all they are is bypassing a sensor and saying its air temp and/or the pressure is different tricking the ecu to add more fuel. Not perfect and depending on the unit and bike combination but simpler and less warranty voiding depending on set up.

Even though leeds is ment to be nearly the same distance and time to preston to where i am, its actually takes way longer. just very suspiciously close to JandS acc again but unlike like the leeds its not exactly next door! jJust for you Stu i'll do what Bender suggested if and when possible, especially a no brainier if its not in stock at the branch but you know what you want.

Fix

No no no Joe, dont go upsetting people...

feel for you, Our car and bikes went up alot more than that...no way.

Sounds like a right arrogant piece of f00£ €¥%$! Sorry but like he gives yanks (especially upper rank businessmen) a real bad reputation... if i was the manager of the site id have said to him he owes 3 years of storage costs (plus inflation, tax etc) and my employees time and cost of parts of x amount of money for keeping eye on it and getting it serviced /fixed for you only because your a off site employee of the company. oh and get it off my site by the end of the week cos the rates have gone up and it might go missing...welcome back to britain and HAVE A NICE DAY...mf.

Nicely put. Glad you tried lots of other manufactures and found a bike thats a really good match. They are all very good base line and its really just down to the persons flavour and requirements, the tracer is a very well balanced solid choice of bike thats hard to top, still has some niggles but no difference to the next one. with tthose tiny scratches and cracks use a plastic restorer or ultrafine compound paste, a good local autofactor shop will have it in or halfords might if your desperate then finish off with a plastics safe wax combing a non lint cloth. yes the snatchy throttle, its the closed loop circuit in the ecu program for emissions mostly noticed in the really low to mid rev range, best way is to try and avoid going that low in the rev or less fully shutting off the throttle to avoid green pease protocol. well the chain adjustment while on its side stand is that is actually the correct way and much easier to get it right without having to hitch it back up again to adjust it. This is due to it being level (swing arm included) while the suspension is partly (static) loaded at roughly the same amount when in use so the chain will be still be good when the bike is fully loaded or if in the rarer time it gets abit of air time... if it was set on a centre stand the rear is fully extended (if the linkage is fresh or non corrosive) when it will be barely if at all not loaded so how do you know when it is static loaded (plus suspension setting) its correct or worse fully loaded? At least with the side stand its actually closer is nominal range. Sorry thats my rant. the bit longer travel off the first is actually a good idea for many reasons and I believe its a mechanical design in the gearbox: mechanical sympathy especially if first is short for off roads or in high altitudes while the gears are spinning stupid fast to mesh with a ratio that might be great on a particular use of road (design cue might be 70road and 30off) but mechanically not perfect without having to put in more splice notches into the gears that might harm service life...also less likely to accidentally knock it when OR. Something older kawa and Suzukis could suffer with. 3kg weight savings and a pristine stock exhaust come trade in.. can't complain just with that. never heard of that particular human additives put in a motorcycle, mind you ive hardly had a reason to visit Leicester. so ive heard people to do that in a dirty diesel systems before, well someone might have ran out of Ad-blue so thwy thought of an alternative but being colour blind ....

Just

hello codey. Yes well if the kit and exhaust has been changed but if a carb or ecu hasnt been adjusted or flashed to the new go faster bits , the idle can be problematic but at least you think to run fine throughout the rev range or at least the cvt is masking the holes in the rev range which tend to happen. jolt from 20to 40 to 20 you mean the actual speed of the bike changing or just the speedo clock does? Is it a slow progression in change or sudden with no interaction of that you do to make it behave differently? when you say massive puddles...how massive are we talking? If its physically damaged, Sounds like water may have damaged or at least jammed the cvt somewhat or possibly sucked water to the engine. is there water in the engine oil? It will be milky looking in the window or dip stick if not Id be looking at sensors associated with those parts or the clock as if that isn't getting the right signal it can have a brain fart.

Beware

Maybe the whiskey had better taste in music....i'll get my coat...

Lovely

Lo

Maybe they should, Cheaper than goretex....

Hi and welcome. wow excellent im sure you'll fit in and your knowledge will be great help to others! Regular updates on Project bikes with pictures are greatly appreciated.