ortonas Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hi,Next week I am coming to 7000 miles mark at which according to manual servicing needs to be done. Now, I am yet to find my favorite servicing shop so I just simply dont want to get ripped off and I could use some independent opinion.I am thinking about changing the chain, but leaving sprockets alone. I probably have another 2 months tops before I tighten to the last mark, but i am afraid of the chain just snapping when it nears the end of a life. I added some pictures.Also i ride YBR125, doing around 200 miles a week. So, is there is any benefit changing the chain now? Or do I simply run it to the ground? If I did the chain at the same time as servicing, i potentially could save money on labour.http://s15.postimg.org/lfy6ltnon/IMG_20160407_180034.jpghttp://s15.postimg.org/d1ijxqmnb/IMG_20160407_180056.jpghttp://s15.postimg.org/qsn0zybl3/IMG_20160407_180112.jpgP.S. I am cleaning the bike and chain tomorrow, so dont worry about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 False economy to just change the chain. You need to do chain and sprockets. If you do just the chain the part worn sprockets will chew up a new chain. If you are nearly at the limit of adjustment change. Chain probably won't break but may jump off the rear and jam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoggs Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 always change them together. And better to change them a bit early than too late! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorian Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Pro tip when you change them ALL (which yes do the sprockets AND the chain)Leave the chain on and loosen the nut on the front sprocket. Put it in first gear and get someone to hold the rear brake on while you undo it (you'll see why) trying to remove the front sprocket otherwise is virtually impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryJM Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Pro tip when you change them ALL (which yes do the sprockets AND the chain)Leave the chain on and loosen the nut on the front sprocket. Put it in first gear and get someone to hold the rear brake on while you undo it (you'll see why) trying to remove the front sprocket otherwise is virtually impossible.Use a breaker bar not your socket driver to undo it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fq-craigus Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Change together if your unsure on what worn parts look like is my advice. With some knowlege you will know when you can get away with changing a sprocket but if a chain needs doing too its not worth chewing up your new chain rollers on old sprockets. The sprockets are the cheap part too so makes sense to change them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ortonas Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Thanks for the tips. As much as I would like to change it myself, unfortunately, living in a flat I dont have a place to mess around with it. Like i said, I just wanna find out more about this before going to the dealer's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 You don't need space for a chain and sprocket change, I fitted the a fresh set on my old BMW in a car park! Come to think about it, I did an awful lot of work on that bike in a car park... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soll Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 is that because most of it fell off in a car park?talking chains and sprockets, if i wanted to lower the crusing revs and utilize the lower range more on my cb500f would i be better off increasing the front sprocket by a tooth or reducing the rear by 2-3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onesea Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 I think the OP asks a good question when does a chain need changing?What tell tail signs? I have Scotoiler and my chain (believed to original) is still going strong at 26,000 miles (I get it looked at by a mechanic from time to time)...What tell tail signs do I look for? I can see few signs of wear the cogs look healthy enough? What do you look for? I understand asking how long a chain lasts is a bit like asking how long a tires last .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ortonas Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 I think the OP asks a good question when does a chain need changing?What tell tail signs? I have Scotoiler and my chain (believed to original) is still going strong at 26,000 miles (I get it looked at by a mechanic from time to time)...What tell tail signs do I look for? I can see few signs of wear the cogs look healthy enough? What do you look for? I understand asking how long a chain lasts is a bit like asking how long a tires last .. Yeah, thats the point, thats why I added some pictures. I understand tightening it to the last mark could be an indicator that you need to change the chain, after all its a metal not a rubber band, but maybe you can push it beyond without problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westbeef Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 I think the OP asks a good question when does a chain need changing?What tell tail signs? I have Scotoiler and my chain (believed to original) is still going strong at 26,000 miles (I get it looked at by a mechanic from time to time)...What tell tail signs do I look for? I can see few signs of wear the cogs look healthy enough? What do you look for? I understand asking how long a chain lasts is a bit like asking how long a tires last .. Yeah, thats the point, thats why I added some pictures. I understand tightening it to the last mark could be an indicator that you need to change the chain, after all its a metal not a rubber band, but maybe you can push it beyond without problems? I have a good experience in chain - I did my apprenticeship at Renold .An Elongated chain is a sign of wear as you know, and I'd say that you probably should change it when it's getting to the last mark as you don't want it to fail on you. The holes for the pins will begin to stretch over time and it could fail in a manner of ways.(All chains will elongate from new fairly quickly as they "bed in", this isn't wear)You can check all the rollers move freely and that none of the links are seized by trying to move each one individually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonio Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Here are the signs I'd look for that say it's time to change chain and sprocketChain links are binding together and can't be loosened by handThe chain has sections where its too loose or too tight and sections where its ok The chain needs tightening all the timeThe sprocket shows significant wear, especially if the wear is uneven on the drive and following side of the sprocketsI've probably missed some - any others anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoggs Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Points two and three were the signs for me! Made a really annoying slapping noise on the frame as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Here are the signs I'd look for that say it's time to change chain and sprocketChain links are binding together and can't be loosened by handThe chain has sections where its too loose or too tight and sections where its ok The chain needs tightening all the timeThe sprocket shows significant wear, especially if the wear is uneven on the drive and following side of the sprocketsI've probably missed some - any others anyone?Only one more that I can think of:Push the chain up in the middle with one hand (to get a bit of tension in it) then try to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket with the other hand, if you can get it more than 1/4" away from the sprocket then it's probably been stretched to death! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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