Triumph Trophy Engine Strip

[fastbob]

How did you get the front sprocket nut off ?

 

I got a 36mm socket from Halfords ( see above )

Tightened up the chain & rear axle, put my foot on the rear brake lever & used a long breaker bar.

 

Just checking to see if you have an impact driver .

[Mickly]

How did you get the front sprocket nut off ?

 

I got a 36mm socket from Halfords ( see above )

Tightened up the chain & rear axle, put my foot on the rear brake lever & used a long breaker bar.

 

Just checking to see if you have an impact driver .

 

Bloody hell, yes I do ( I think ) it was my Dads.

I’ll have a look tomorrow!!

[fastbob]

I got a 36mm socket from Halfords ( see above )

Tightened up the chain & rear axle, put my foot on the rear brake lever & used a long breaker bar.

 

Just checking to see if you have an impact driver .

 

Bloody hell, yes I do ( I think ) it was my Dads.

I’ll have a look tomorrow!!

 

Just keeping my options open in case my sprocket nut won't budge . I tend to get very nervous when I'm bouncing up and down on a piece of scaffolding especially when it was my GSXR clutch hub nut .

[Mickly]

Just checking to see if you have an impact driver .

 

Bloody hell, yes I do ( I think ) it was my Dads.

I’ll have a look tomorrow!!

 

Just keeping my options open in case my sprocket nut won't budge . I tend to get very nervous when I'm bouncing up and down on a piece of scaffolding especially when it was my GSXR clutch hub nut .

 

I’ll let you know

[Mickly]

Bloody hell, yes I do ( I think ) it was my Dads.

I’ll have a look tomorrow!!

 

Just keeping my options open in case my sprocket nut won't budge . I tend to get very nervous when I'm bouncing up and down on a piece of scaffolding especially when it was my GSXR clutch hub nut .

 

I’ll let you know

Here you go [mention]fastbob[/mention]

Not an electric one, but reckon it’d do the job - completely forgot I’d got it.

You’re welcome to borrow it anytime you need.

[Mickly]

According to Haynes, the next step is to undo the rear brake lever assembly to access the lower RH engine fixing bolt, but the arrangement on the CRK one seems to have enough clearance.

 

Haynes say’s next step is to loosen the swinging arm pivot bolts, but I can’t see why, so not going to yet .... all will become clear I’m sure

I’ve been given a tip that removing the sump gives a flat surface on which to rest the engine while working on it , so here goes.

Off with the oil filter

Boxed up & labelled

Next the removal of 20 bolts attaching the sump including the 2 illusive longer ones in the middle & this bugger just above the oil cooler bypass pipe ( I’d already got a cut down Allen key from when I fitted it )

The exhaust support bracket is held by 2 of the bolts so that came off as well.

Sump off & the first sign of trouble - metal bits in the metal gauze filter

The internal oil pipes now needed removal.

Pipes off & stored with the sump.

Let it drain overnight while trying to decide how to support it when it comes out of the frame & tidy up the bench to take it.

[Mickly]

Bench before

Bench Now

An old curtain came in useful to provide a clean area & to hide all the crap !!

[fastbob]

Just keeping my options open in case my sprocket nut won't budge . I tend to get very nervous when I'm bouncing up and down on a piece of scaffolding especially when it was my GSXR clutch hub nut .

 

I’ll let you know

Here you go @fastbob

Not an electric one, but reckon it’d do the job - completely forgot I’d got it.

You’re welcome to borrow it anytime you need.

CBDAD413-7680-4321-9F03-2122A2A6E6F9.jpeg

 

Ah , wrong terminology on my part . I've got two of those . I was thinking of one of these . The guy I used to borrow one off has moved away .

[Mickly]

Rear engine mounting fixings removed

Top front & rear engine mountings loosened

 

Was gonna use an hydraulic Jack & piece of chip board to drop & move the engine out, but as it’s such a heavy lump, I’ve bottled it and will wait for a strong mate to assist.

[Mickly]

While waiting for a mate to pop round on Saturday to assist with the engine removal, I’ve decided to strip some more stuff off the engine to make it lighter to shift - it’s all stuff that would be coming off anyway for repainting.

Off comes the water pump

I’ve taken off the stub pipe attached to the head, it’s got this bracket on it & I’ve no idea what it’s for?

Water pump off, stored away with its fixings, paper towel stuffed into holes.

[Mickly]

Removing the Cam cover

All 12 fixings removed and then the seals under the heads of the fixings left behind recovered.

Middle ones were a git to get to as the frame insured them.

Think some of them need replacing

Cover withdraws from the right of the engine, a bit of a wiggle & hey presto.

I had it powder coated so it’s in good nick.

Nothing untoward in there, cam lobes look fine.

Bit of heavy oil added to the cam lines to prevent rusting

All boxed with its fixings.

[Mickly]

Diego to point out, that in order to check the cam lobes, the timing cover has to come off.

So a 24mm socket can be put on the crank nut & the engine turned over, which it did with suspicious ease

 

Timing cover & fixings bagged & labelled.

[Mickly]

Off with the cam chain tensioner.

First the 1.4 mark in the timing disc must be in line with the pick up coil thus:

and the arrows on the cam sprockets should be pointing inwards thus:

Not pointing outwards like this:

Then I heard a dripping & coolant was coming out of where the head cooling stub pipe attaches .... I’d forgotten to drain the cylinder water jacket by undoing this bolt:

With that done back onto the cam chain tensioner - Haynes recommends locking the timing chain with a piece of wood in case it jumps off the sprocket:

Cam chain tensioner bolt & screws.

Removed & seems to be working as it should do.

Tensioner & fixings bagged, labelled & stored.

In writing this, I’m wondering whether all the timing mark malarkey was worth it as the cams will be coming out anyway to get the cam chain off, so the head can be removed ....

[Mickly]

Removal of cam chain upper guide

An old towel pushed in to recesses to prevent the non magnetic torx bit or the screws disappearing down into the crankcase.

Guide off, bagged, labelled & stored.

[Mickly]

According to Haynes, the cam caps should be numbered - and as panto season is upon us ... Oh no it isn’t!!

The end ones at the cam chain end are marked

So before removal I’ll have to find a way of storing them in order & the right way round.

[onesea]

Cam chain tensioner bolt & screws.

 

Might be worth buying new can chain tensioner spring, as the originals tend to shrink over time.

Certainly measure it before replacing...

[linuxrob]

This is fun, loving it.

[Mickly]

With the help of my Dremel

Bought this especially for the job £9:60 from Home base.

Each box has room for cam caps, fixings, tappets & shims ( the shims & tappets bagged & labelled before going into the box.

Shim & tappet looking good.

Exhaust cam shaft out - lobes & journals looking good (eg)

Cam shaft lobes & journals covered in sticky oil - Redex Stop Smoke, before wrapping in an old towel & boxing up.

One shim & tappet out.

[Mickly]

Intake Cam shaft removed - journals & Lobes look good.

Oiled, wrapped & boxed.

Remembered that I’d got this handy cheap magnetic tool - made removing the shims & tappets so much easier.

[Mickly]

Strong mate turned up & we managed to carefully drop the engine & lift it onto the bench.

Had to prize the rear of the engine out of its upper rear fixing locations with a piece of wood ( a sledge hammer handle to be precise ) this is probably why the swinging arm bolts should be slackened.

Front 3 external head bolts removed, labelled & stored - might get stainless cap head versions to replace them.

RH side (3) external head fixings removed, labelled & stored.

Just the internal head bolts to remove & this is where it all turned to shite - the first real problem encountered.

The bolts have to be removed in a certain order, which is easy to follow.

H’mm they are a bit tight, so breaker bar employed

Oh Shit

The T50 Torx bit from my Halfords Advanced socket set snapped, but as it’s got a life time guarantee I’ve been to the store & they’ve ordered me a new one. To be fair it was an anti-tamper version with a hole down the centre and only a 3/8” drive so probably not really up to the job.

So off to Toolstation

Purchased set of these

Comes with 1/2” drive

Happy days, first bolt undone.

Second one ... oh shit ( again )

Replacement obtained from Toolstation, no questions asked

Back to trying the bolts, with my mate holding the engine, the breaker bar moving, the bolt isn’t

It now looks a tad mangled.

Tried a hammer impact driver - still not budging.

So given up for the time being.

On Monday I’ll have a chat with the mechanic at garage at the end of out road & see if he’ll get them undone for me.

Oh, and I found this inside the bolt head - it’s non ferrous & hard, no idea what it is or how it got there!!

[Guest Swagman]

O crap that’s not good, why do they use such flimsy types of bolts beats me.

[TimR]

T40 t45 and t50 are generally not covered under most lifetime guarantees

This was due to ford using this size on their transit brake caliper fixings and then other manufacturers began using similar and as the bit was on the limits of what could be made from the metal used they could not tolerate the torque required for these fixings ad there was a huge surge of claims against toolmakers like Sealey and Draper for replacement bits time and time again ...

Till they stated that these sizes were excluded from the guarantee ...

Sealey terms

 

Edited November 15, 2020 by TimR

[TimR]

Was it yourself who has coated every mating surface in orange instant gasket previously ?

[Mickly]

Was it yourself who has coated every mating surface in orange instant gasket previously ?

 

Not every surface, just a smear to hold the gaskets in place, maybe having looked at the evidence, my idea of a smear is a bit more of a squidge

[Guest Richzx6r]

According to Haynes, the cam caps should be numbered - and as panto season is upon us ... Oh no it isn’t!!

278E7F8D-CAAA-4E44-8D69-453E454325E5.jpeg3FE7DEAF-85E4-4071-B09A-54C3461752A1.jpeg

The end ones at the cam chain end are marked

8C09A598-0F3E-46CA-949D-A29D832D9889.jpeg63E094D0-C50E-4C9B-9164-0B6259265BAA.jpeg

So before removal I’ll have to find a way of storing them in order & the right way round.

 

What about separate bags and label them from the timing end?