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Urgent help with my bike! Sump plug bolt snapped!!!1


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Posted

I really need help!!! today I wanted to do an oil change and the sump plug was stuck not budging at all so I read on other forums and saw that to kick the wrench to crack the seal of the plug is better than using torque as it could round off the bolt. But as I did that the head bolt of the plug broke off and now there is just a hole. How can I take off the plug? I read the forums already but could not understand what to do to take it off. Can anyone help?

 

image_16838657.jpg

 

  • Sad 1
Posted

Might have to take sump off, what bike you got.

 

Bit late but brute force is best avoided, you weren't going the wrong way by any chance? 

 

Fastbob was just decrying the lack of technical help being required he should be along shortly 😁 

Posted

@Bender It is scarily easy to go the wrong way round when spannering from underneath :oops:  I always set my ratchet to loosen before getting in to position just to make sure!!

 

You might be able to get a large sized nut extractor like these on it

 

5-pc-bolt-grip™-expansion-set-808.jpg

 

I think Bender might be correct though in saying the sump may need to come off.

  • Like 1
Posted

My solution is to get cold chisel on lump of remaining bolt and tap it with hammer.  Remembering lefty loosy, will act like kind of impact hammer.

 

 Then I like hammers..

 

After that others will be along  with less violent solutions more technical solution.

 

Tip in future a good grip with ring spanner and gentle taps with hammer cracks most nuts. It’s the shock that does it.

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Evening . Something odd here  . What's all that rough area where the lugs are supposed to be ? It should look like this . Anyway , if it were me , I'd be tapping it around with a Cold Chisel . Start vertically to make an indentation and then lower the angle to get it moving anti clockwise . 

Polish_20210225_220539285.png

  • Thanks 1
Posted

This shows the threaded part which needs to be removed. They’re not cheap! I think I’d try using a Dremel to cut slots either side, then insert a piece of steel and use moles grips on the steel plate to try to turn the remains of the bolt. I always set up my ratchet and test by hand when working upside down. It’s easy to go the wrong way.

 

image.jpeg.48a0586d0a1da327107cd3dac714c0ca.jpeg

Posted

I think the sensible thing to do here is admit defeat and hand it over to a mechanic before it gets any worse. The drain bolt screws into the engine case not into a sump and the case splits vertically. If you damage the case or the threads in the case you would have to take the whole engine apart to replace the case or put a used engine in.

  • Like 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, fastbob said:

Evening . Something odd here  . What's all that rough area where the lugs are supposed to be ? 

 

I thought that, looks like it's been ground off :scratch:

Posted
7 minutes ago, Tiggie said:

 

I thought that, looks like it's been ground off :scratch:

The tension and force will be on the flange section clamping the o ring, using a dremel type tool if you could cut the flange off the plug then the threaded section should screw out by hand. 

 

I wonder if this  is what's been attempted.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Tiggie said:

 

I thought that, looks like it's been ground off :scratch:

I'd say he snapped the bolt and then tried a grips on the outside and chewed up outside

Posted
1 minute ago, WD40 said:

I'd say he snapped the bolt and then tried a grips on the outside and chewed up outside

No marks on the shoulder that's directly around the nut head.

Posted
1 hour ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

This shows the threaded part which needs to be removed. They’re not cheap! I think I’d try using a Dremel to cut slots either side, then insert a piece of steel and use moles grips on the steel plate to try to turn the remains of the bolt. I always set up my ratchet and test by hand when working upside down. It’s easy to go the wrong way.

 

image.jpeg.48a0586d0a1da327107cd3dac714c0ca.jpeg

Right , so compared to the original picture , where have the six ridges gone ? And what's with that elaborate and delicate design in the first place ? It's a sump bolt for goodness sake .

Posted

I used a wrench I went left to loosen it and the head bolt snapped off creating a hold and oil came out.  Guys I was shocked too when I saw the plug as it did not look like the stock one I brought. It is a 2014 yzf r125. I am just stressed out from this situation. And I don't know how much it would cost for a garage to even fix this or if they can fix it.

Posted

Do you guys think this is something I can fix myself. Also if I chisel do I put the bike on the side on the floor or is there another way?

Posted

Easiest way would be to lie the bike on its side.

 

Just take it slowly and be extra careful to make sure you are chiselling it in the right direction. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Tiggie said:

Easiest way would be to lie the bike on its side.

 

Just take it slowly and be extra careful to make sure you are chiselling it in the right direction. 

Thanks I will give it a try over the weekend hopefully it works thanks.

Posted (edited)

If you went left (anticlockwise) looking from above then that's right (clockwise) for an inverted thread.

 

As @fastbob says, it's unnecessarily complicated for a sump plug. It looks like the top section of the plug has sheared. Be careful using a cold chisel because the sump isn't that strong and could break if the sump plug has been overtightened in the first place.

 

If you can get some old cushions or something to support the bike so you can lay it down on it's side that will help.

 

For future reference never kick a stuck bolt. If you need to shock it loose use small taps repeatedly, like a rattle gun can shock bolts loose.

 

Now I can look at the photos on my pc screen rather than just the phone it looks like the outer 'flange' of the sump bolt has sheared which is the bits with the ridges. If you look at the underside of the plug in the photo I posted above then what is left is the remains of the hex section and the thread. If you do use a chisel then do it gently, but I would try cutting two slots in what is left of the hex section and getting a solid bit of metal into them which you can use to apply some twisting force - anticlockwise - first.

 

If that fails I would use a dremel to cut away as much of what is left as possible so you are left with just the thread, which once everything else is removed will be tight but not under as much force as before. If you're careful removing the thread won't be as difficult. But go at it very carefully and remove small bits at a time. Make sure metal fragments don't get into the sump, put some rag into the filter mesh.

 

However, from what you've said so far about tools etc I'd seriously consider trusting this to a workshop because if you get it wrong you'll end up paying out a lot more.

Edited by Mississippi Bullfrog
  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

If you went left (anticlockwise) looking from above then that's right (clockwise) for an inverted thread.

 

As @fastbob says, it's unnecessarily complicated for a sump plug. It looks like the top section of the plug has sheared. Be careful using a cold chisel because the sump isn't that strong and could break if the sump plug has been overtightened in the first place.

 

If you can get some old cushions or something to support the bike so you can lay it down on it's side that will help.

 

For future reference never kick a stuck bolt. If you need to shock it loose use small taps repeatedly, like a rattle gun can shock bolts loose.

 

Now I can look at the photos on my pc screen rather than just the phone it looks like the outer 'flange' of the sump bolt has sheared which is the bits with the ridges. If you look at the underside of the plug in the photo I posted above then what is left is the remains of the hex section and the thread. If you do use a chisel then do it gently, but I would try cutting two slots in what is left of the hex section and getting a solid bit of metal into them which you can use to apply some twisting force - anticlockwise - first.

 

If that fails I would use a dremel to cut away as much of what is left as possible so you are left with just the thread, which once everything else is removed will be tight but not under as much force as before. If you're careful removing the thread won't be as difficult. But go at it very carefully and remove small bits at a time. Make sure metal fragments don't get into the sump, put some rag into the filter mesh.

 

However, from what you've said so far about tools etc I'd seriously consider trusting this to a workshop because if you get it wrong you'll end up paying out a lot more.

What an excellent description . Nothing further to add except don't make any plans for the weekend . 😉

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