billy sugger Posted January 21, 2022 Posted January 21, 2022 I have a CB125 t2, (twin cylinder, 1980) The issue is the kick-start. When I bought the bike the sellers bought it out running. I handed over £880 and stuck it a van to bring home, and that's when the fun started. At home it would not start, no matter what I tried, so I had a good look at it, and discovered numerous faults, among them timing was out by two teeth, there were no rubbers connecting the carbs to the air box, (they no longer make them, and they are a special shape) and it burnt oil. The rubbers I fashioned out of 40mm car hose and I redid the timing, fitted new points etc, and eventually got it running, enough to take mod 1+2 on it. Once that was out the way it meant I could use my 250 again so the 125 had a big strip down. I ended up needing: new barrels as one badly scored, hence the burning oil, new valves, guides, seals, pistons + rings. Eventually I had it sorted, but one niggle remains. The damn thing is a pig to start, though once going it ticks over nicely, and I think it's linked to the kickstart lever. From what I can assertain the lever is the correct one, but it hits the footpeg on the downstroke, so it's like only getting half a revolution out of the engine. If you remove the foot rest the lever travels further down, so engine turns over more. Due to the lever shape it only fits on the splines in one place, so the lever can fold back out of the way, in a recess next to the clutch cover, so, my question is after all the rambling, what is wrong? PS, the pegs are original, and just bolt to the engine and have a dowel that fits in a hole so will only fit in one place Quote
fastbob Posted January 21, 2022 Posted January 21, 2022 Let's have a picture of the kick start lever on the bike please . Quote
TimR Posted January 22, 2022 Posted January 22, 2022 You may find the cog inside has worn and whilst it is 1mm or so that translates to 20mm at the end of the kick start . ( or by the history it may be installed incorrectly ) Quote
billy sugger Posted January 22, 2022 Author Posted January 22, 2022 (edited) Here are the pics I promised I noticed the frame is now going rusty after standing for over a year, so need to get the brushes out. All I really want to do is get it running and sell it Edited January 22, 2022 by billy sugger Quote
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted January 22, 2022 Posted January 22, 2022 Maybe it's the angle of the photo but that look a bit long to me. Maybe that's why it's catching on the footpeg? Quote
Bianco2564 Posted January 22, 2022 Posted January 22, 2022 Just looking online at the design of the lever it appears that the pivot for the arm is inline with the end of the spline. On yours it appears to be stepped out? Quote
Bianco2564 Posted January 22, 2022 Posted January 22, 2022 On my Honda 125 twin I've got a kick start in this style, the arm goes between the footpeg and exhaust. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115185572332 Quote
billy sugger Posted January 22, 2022 Author Posted January 22, 2022 Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle Quote
billy sugger Posted January 22, 2022 Author Posted January 22, 2022 Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle. Just found a pic online of the 125s.the footpeg is in front of the kick-start, not behind like the twin. Will need to look into this some more, as I'm convinced something is not right Quote
billy sugger Posted January 22, 2022 Author Posted January 22, 2022 14 minutes ago, billy sugger said: Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle. Just found a pic online of the 125s.the footpeg is in front of the kick-start, not behind like the twin. Will need to look into this some more, as I'm convinced something is not right I have just had a gander at different pics of the bike online, and they have the same settings as mine, with only a small amount of travel on the lever before it hits the peg Quote
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted January 23, 2022 Posted January 23, 2022 Just been looking at some pictures of those and that kick lever does look right. I thought you meant it was fouling the rear footpeg, my mistake. Comparing pictures yours externally looks ok so the suggestion above about wear in the drive mechanism might be the thing to check. The engine ought to turn over sufficiently to start before the lever fouls the rider footpeg. Quote
Bianco2564 Posted January 23, 2022 Posted January 23, 2022 9 hours ago, billy sugger said: Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle If viewed from above, the clamped block of the lever in the cmsnl image is flat. On your pic it looks like its stepped out. This would cause the arm to be further out from the engine when swung out. Does the arm engage with the internal gearing right at the top of its stroke when you go to kick it or does it go some way down? It does have move a little for the gear to travel along the helix but not far. When I put the RGV together I remember having a couple of attempts to get it set up correctly 1 Quote
billy sugger Posted January 23, 2022 Author Posted January 23, 2022 The arm travels downwards by about30% before it engages a gear and turns engine over. I never touched the kickstart mechanism or the gears when I worked on the bike, I only did the top end, so I have no idea if it's fitted correctly Quote
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted January 24, 2022 Posted January 24, 2022 12 hours ago, billy sugger said: The arm travels downwards by about30% before it engages a gear and turns engine over. I never touched the kickstart mechanism or the gears when I worked on the bike, I only did the top end, so I have no idea if it's fitted correctly Well that doesn't sound right, it ought to engage before that. Quote
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