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Posh new decals, no talent


Angela Collen
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Good morning all, wondered if you could share your experience, I have some lovely new decals for my classic honda cb400nc superdream 1983 (black/gold) that I'm updating/restoring, but have never put on decals before. Reading up there seems two methods most people use, slightly wetting them seems to give you time to correct any errors. My decals are not large but some are long that go round seat base. Any advise for newbie would be greatly appreciated , which method do you favour?

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There is a brazilian professional car and bike painter that always uses water with a bit of washing up liquid to allow the stickers/decalc to slide into position.

Then he uses a heat gun (or hairdryer) to dry the water and paint over

 

If you look into YT for "oficina mesquita" you can find lots of clips he does about spraying bikes parts.

 

 

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Thank you husoi, top video, seems like even professionals need a bit of realignment and water/washing liquid trick looks good, thought he put lots on tank but soon wiped / squeegee off and hairdryer trick finished off small bubble, very helpful for beginners, was that vanish/lacquer he sprayed on in end, guess decals need protection, appreciate your time. Will old decals come off with hairdryer or do you simply sand them off like he did? Some decals on plastic, know I need adhesion promotor and special plastic paint.

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Detailers spray is very good to plus you don't have to worry about getting the right ratio.

Its Not bothered about temperature so it doesn't evaporate too fast and wipes off well without affecting the stick coating of the sticker because it doesn't contain salt.


Also if enough spray is added you can move the sticker slightly before properly committing by using a plastic card or blade to push out evenly from the middle outwards with the little ones will help greatly. 

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Depends if the sticker has a lacquer coating on over it, if not then low and gentle heat will to the job. If its lacquered its a real pain but the best results will be to sand it back to base and repaint.

 

dont have to if its good quality but it does make more sense to protect it and the paint with lacquer.

 

all depends on what your after and prepared to do.

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30 minutes ago, Angela Collen said:

Thank you husoi, top video, seems like even professionals need a bit of realignment and water/washing liquid trick looks good, thought he put lots on tank but soon wiped / squeegee off and hairdryer trick finished off small bubble, very helpful for beginners, was that vanish/lacquer he sprayed on in end, guess decals need protection, appreciate your time. Will old decals come off with hairdryer or do you simply sand them off like he did? Some decals on plastic, know I need adhesion promotor and special plastic paint.

He always does one coat of clear on top of the stickers to protect them.

I think is how manufacturers do.

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Thank you husoi and RideWithStyles, want to make top job of my classic so taking it all on board, will start off with small decal first to get confidence, then tackle longer one round seat, previous owner tried to touch up decals with paint or what actually looks like nail vanish,not matching as unusual gold/silver so may have to sand these parts back. Appreciate your help 

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Bob Ross inspired eh?
They Probably tried halford touch up sticks!🤣.

 

with the sanding very light grades if your not used to it, also where a proper respirator as the paints used in those days contained all sorts of nasties that are banned these days.

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And due to the banning dont be surprised if the paints are not quite the same...

case in point Mclaren F1 in the 90s. They couldnt replicate the pearl and paint when they tried to do a celebrity version of that car on a modern model couple of years go.
IMG_1036.jpeg.e572ea858674f6b8839af93f46d65b9a.jpeg
IMG_1038.thumb.jpeg.0328a6b58e2a32d5925f54f92741bb85.jpeg


 

Also Bruce Mclarens flat orange they couldn't quite get it.

IMG_1037.thumb.jpeg.7cddfb01e56d3026228bb6650cd60967.jpeg

 

IMG_1035.thumb.jpeg.665cbda14bddd1f6d8c2a6e3abd5433f.jpeg

So dont get too worked up about it.

 

 

 

 

Edited by RideWithStyles
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Oh don't get me started on paint,bike is black, simple I thought, not at all,apart from if I want matt or gloss (I've tested both) black comes in so many shades,with hints of other colours or even sparkles, nearly done my head in!! Who would have thought

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Don’t know if it’s in the useful info preceding this, but, according to Alan Millyard & Sam Lovegrove ( both who’s opinions I respect )

the idea is to set the surface & transfer, then put it in place and slide the backing out leaving the transfer in place.

Apologies if this has already been mentioned.

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1 hour ago, Angela Collen said:

Oh don't get me started on paint,bike is black, simple I thought, not at all,apart from if I want matt or gloss (I've tested both) black comes in so many shades,with hints of other colours or even sparkles, nearly done my head in!! Who would have thought

😂 you've barely touched to surface.

 

Im a colour matcher (along with other skills)  in profession so Paints, pearls, lacquers yes you might think is alot thats even before about bases, grains, prints, inks, protectants, additives, blockers, modifiers, stainers, retardants, haptics and how they are all applied if your in that type of trade.

 

A customer in my trade can easily have many different colour black standards for the same colour "black" just if the grain is slightly different, let alone other variables.

Edited by RideWithStyles
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Oh and dont forget semi gloss they are not exactly smack in the middle gloss level ratio for both solvent and waterbase.


solvent based gloss is generally king. its stronger, looks really nice and dries really well.

Strangely water based dull is generally stronger than the bright, duller to gloss ratio than solvents but requires more heat to cure properly.

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If you are going for fancy "metallics".

They are loads of different applications, outdoor, indoor, plastics, clothing, water soluble, solvent, high heat

, flame resistant etc.

They come in loads of different variations like particle sizes including variations in those parameters measured in microns, So you can get 5-10um, 5-25, 5-40, 5-60, 20-60,60-120um etc and they all play a different way in which they can be seen, at different angles and how much of the base colour goes through. Plus if they can have their own pigment added in say a blue and you have a red base paint at some angles you will see a purple hue more likly to put it very loosely.


then youve got metallics, pearls with the different plates, high chroma crystal, luminous metal, silica, glass, iridescents, light reflection, interference.

 

you can get aluminium aswell but you may find that harder to find as they can explosive...

Edited by RideWithStyles
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