Mr Fro

What's the part number on your CDI? I've just upgraded the unit on my '95 ZXR750 so have the original going spare...

I don't know how to ask this without sounding stooopid but what does a PVA do any why would you want one? Apart from sticking stuff together of course.

Thanks Hoggs!

Thanks matey - is that the main body or to the tabs?

Cheers dudes!

If you have can you do me a favor and measure the height of your radiator next time you're out there please? The standard one on my ZXR is too tall and I need a shorter one. Cheers, Fro

Hello! Something doesn't like being jiggled... The troubleshooting has already begun. I recently found out that any issues with the neutral switch, side stand switch or associated wiring = no spark.

What happens if you give it a rev while it's on it's stand? Does it drop back to an even idle?

Not a huge amount has happened in turbo land lately. I rigged up the fuel system which as well as the referenced regulator needs a return line to the tank. Luckily I had two outlets on the tank to play with so I'm using the "on" feed as the regulator return and "reserve" as the pump feed. This of course means I won't have any warning before I run out of fuel. I cut and bent up some aluminium sheet to form brackets for the ECU and fuel pump: Then I chopped up the ZX10 headers and started to loose fit them - slight problem was that the studs on the ZX10 are closer together than the ZXR so I had to machine the holes out a bit to make them fit: I'm a bit stuck now - I've ordered the stuff I need to TIG the titanium headers but to keep costs down I've had to get a few bits from China which could take a couple of weeks. I need to measure up for the intake plenum too. I'm wondering if I can [strikeout]con[/strikeout] entice a BTEC bod at school in to machining out the carb block if I draw them up in CAD...

My thoughts: Buy a classic! You can pay super extra tax for buying a Tesla which is good clean fun or buy an old Roller/Lambo/whatever for less money which actively kills kittens and puppies with it's obnoxious fumes yet pay not tax. *Insert conspiracy theory here.*

I think we've talked about something similar before and this was my favorite. It's already insulated, wired, air con etc with a handy removable bed and a snazzy bike lift plus the added bonus that you won't have to pay tax and reduced chances of parking tickets.

There's nothing for it, you going to have to red line it to cough it out.

I'm in a ply phase - I welded up a desk for my "office" on and put a birch ply top on it. A little bit of oil and the ply looks great. I found it machines well - you could always put a bevel on the wearing edges if you're concerned about snagging.

Bonza. There seem to be loads in this neck of the woods. People obviously like crashing VAG motors.

Oh, right, I didn't realise - I thought they were TT specific. That's why they're only £15-20 a pop then. Before I settled on naked I was planning on putting it in the nose cone. I'll still offer it up but I reckon it'll look shit.

It was the shape and inlet/outlet positions that made me think of slinging it underneath. I've only really been looking at eBay stuff...

Bovvad. I'm thinking matte tank, mudguards and panels with gloss frame and lettering. That might be some way down the road...

It might be going black...

I think my budget might be sliiiightly lower than the Martek! I want to use an intercooler so I can run higher boost but finding a place for one is really difficult. As it is I'm going to have to get a shorter radiator (anyone got the measurements for an R1 rad?). An Audi TT intercooler might work: http://assets.suredone.com/1517/media-photos/cp026000-lh-turbo-intercooler-audi-tt-mk1-18t-225-hp-genuine-oe-8l9-145-805-2.jpg If I can make enough space I thought it might fit underneath the engine with a scoop to direct air in to it. Either that or run a long one up the side of the rad but I don't like that idea much. I'm all ears if someone had a solution!

Looks smart! You shouldn't have to worry about damp in the upstairs bit as it's insulated by the dungeon. I've got a cheapie dehumidifier in mine "just in case" - has to be a condensing one as normal ones don't work at low temperatures. Mine was £120ish from Tesco which works really well. If you're still thinking of electric doors, I highly recommend Hormann. Insulated, wind and rain proof, high security and look good. They're quite good for price but the lead time is 6 weeks or so. The majesty of riding up to your garage, pressing a button and rolling straight in is unparalleled.

All in all an entirely appropriate response.

I've wanted to turbo something for yonks and since I only managed one track day last year I thought I'd strap one in the ZXR. Here's what I started with: The handling is great on this thing, the brakes are alright and I don't particularly like the fairings so I'll go naked and maybe do something about the brakes if needed. I'd already spent a load of time tuning the engine - it's got a snazzy exhaust, the clean air system went in the bin and I've fiddled plenty with the fuelling to give me a respectable 109bhp. 20150821-184730294.bmp My aim is to keep the engine internals standard and lower the compression ratio slightly so I can run low boost and retain road usability. I'm aiming to run 7 or 8 psi which should give me around the 160bhp mark. I started off by stripping the bike down: I already prefer the way it looks! Engine out: I did some basic checks on the engine - compression and stuff and all looked well. There was some gank on the back of the inlet valves which needed a scrape and the valve stem seals probably needed replacing so I ordered a good full gasket set and started stripping down. The combustion chambers looked alright but I gave them a good clean up anyway. I noticed one of the inlet valves was slightly corroded around the rim so I replaced it and lapped the rest in. I realise now that I failed to take any more pictures of the rebuild so slappy wrists for me. Anyway, everything was disassembled, cleaned, checked, measured and repaired/replaced where necessary. I even went so far as to balance up the piston/conrod combos (because I'm sad like that). I also turned down some aluminium rod and hammered it down the exhaust emission tubes to fully block them off. The standard compression ratio is 10.8:1 which is a bit high for turbo stuff. I've done loads of reading around this (highly recommend Maximum Boost by Corky Bell) and that's a bit high so I doubled up the base gasket to lower me to 9.8:1 which is better. Running boost is all about the balance of a number of variables to avoid detonation which is where the air/fuel mixture in the chamber is ignited too early and maximum cylinder pressure occurs before TDC. This causes "pinking" and motor knackerage. As boost levels rise, the ignition timing must be retarded to avoid detonation so I bought a ritzy programmable ignition unit from Ignitech along with a lambda sensor module and MAP sensor. All in this lot cost me about £360. From anyone else it would be the thick end of a grand and so far it's been very easy to use - even for a computer idiot like me! Because I'm running carbs I also needed a boost referenced fuel system that would supply fuel to the bowls at x PSI above boost pressure so fuel would always be able to get in to the bowls so I got a Malpassi regulator and a generic EFI fuel pump. I measured the pressure of the OEM pump at 3PSI so set the base pressure on the Malpassi unit to that. I hindsight, now that I've had a test run of the pump, I wish I'd got a pump from an EFI tank and welded it in to my current tank. It would have been a bit of a pain but would have tidied everything up and the generic one I have is a bit noisy. I had to do some wiring stuff anyway so took the opportunity to go through the loom and remove bits I didn't need such as the lights and chose to hard-wire in the connections for the new ECU - it came with a converter for the original loom but I want to keep everything to a minimum. I spent ages looking for a place for the fuel pump and finally decided the only good place for it would be where the starter relay was and the rest of the relays used to be. This meant undoing some of the wiring I'd just done and shifting the starter relay: It's only a test fit but it had to be far enough back to avoid shit being thrown up from the road: You can also see the new regulator hanging off the carb rail - again, the product of much head scratching. The new ECU is top right too. Now that's all sorted, I "just" need to figure out where the turbo is going to go and fabricate some headers, sort the oil feed/return and make up a plenum and connect it all up. I'll try and keep this updated as I go along and feel free to give me a shout of anything I've missed or if you've got any hints or solutions to stuff. Cheers, Fro

I tried it. It didn't work. Some nob stuck the clutch in the way.

I have a vacuum unit. Also a couple of vacuum bottles and some tubing. I feel an experiment coming on....

Might pop up and wave a flag then. Do you know your schedule for those days yet?