Mr Fro

Quality result! Good work team.

TC - I was only going to "like" your post but I didn't feel that was enough so I want to use words to express how much I absolutely agree with what you just said: *ahem* I absolutely agree with what you just said.

Is now a good time to mention I'm on the original chain and sprockets on my ZX6r? Nearly 11 years old, lubed... a few times, done track days, covered quite a few miles in all weather and lived outside for some years. Laziness has it's advantages.

Happy Birthday Beefs!

Cheers matey, that's good to know. I bunged them an email this morning and they got back to me within a couple of hours! Extra bonus that they can do a CDI replacement unit with a wideband O2 sensor kit which will do data logging. All that for less than a clunky Dynatek unit.

Hello boys and girls! I've been looking about for a programmable ignition unit for my turbo project and stumbled upon a Czech company called Ignitech. I've never heard of them but their products sound pretty good and cheap in comparison to the available alternatives such as dynatek. Have you heard of them or used them? Cheers, Fro

Have you got a pic of the sort of thing you want and an idea of budget?

I saw a thing on TV with James May - he rode about with no lid in London and stated the fine was £30 only if he got stuck on, which he didn't. True or TV bollocks?

I wish you could see my face because it's not amused.

No.

Right... Yeah... Fair enough. Can TMBF sponsor me for about £2k then please? I'll put a very small TMBF sticker on it somewhere.

Where's the challenge in that?!

It's more common to stick a thicker or extra base gasket in. Problem is it ruins the squish. I really want to go balls out and run decent boost to crack 200bhp but that'll need forged pistons at £600ish plus mappable ignition for another £300ish. Apparently 6psi is "safe" for OEM pistons and timing which would give around the 150 - 160bhp mark so that'll be the route I go as I can fabricate most of the other bits. I was hoping our new Finnish chum would have it planned out already so I could pinch his ideas.

Fair enough. What turbo do you have? I'm on the lookout for a GT2052...

Too true - I got a bit carried away with the "Ooh, shiny new car!" think. I genuinely wish I'd kept my shitty old diesel Volvo Estate. At least I could fit things in it and it cost £0 in services for the few years I had it.

I've decided my next car is going to be a classic. The VED is free and the rolling 40 year cut off will bring more stuff in to it. I'm distinctly uncomfortable with the money I've lost on my car over the last few years. For the same amount as the depreciation, I could have bought a very nice Rolls Royce, run it about and probably made a few quid when I sold it.

The bit Spanner put up is a good guide - if you follow it step by step you should nail it. In a nutshell; set the piston to 2mm BTDC, adjust the points gap to 0.3-0.4mm by loosening the backplate screw (usually just above/right next to the contact breakers) and moving the plate. Do that screw up and slightly loosen the one at the other end of the points. If you've got a continuity meter, connect one probe to the grey or orange wire on the points depending which one you're doing and the other to a ground point. Otherwise, put your finest feeler gauge between the contact breakers (rizla/cigarette paper or something very thin will work). There's usually a v shape in the back plate near the loosened screw and a dink/hole behind it so you can use a screwdriver to lever/rotate the points around. Bring the points together slowly until the continuity goes to less than 4 Ohm. If you're using a rizla or feeler gauge, slide it about in the points gap while closing them until you feel the paper/gauge start to drag. You can tighten the screw now and rotate the crank to 2mm BTDC and check that everything is okey-dokey. Don't worry about the stuff about the 0.25mm card in that link - it's just describing cleaning the points. Edit: What Steve said.

Turbo! Are you doing a high or low pressure system? I'd be interested to know what you're doing about ignition timing (amongst other things).

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame! It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening. Have you got a manual?

I like Shoe - I've had a few now. Can't say they're any quieter or louder than others brands I've tried - I just like the fit and style.

I don't know that it's a great idea running the light directly from the panel - I tried that and popped a bulb. My panels chuff out ~18v measuring directly. I use this sort of thing battery wise. I'm up to six now but a couple will last a few hours no problems. I now have the same sort as Joe linked and they're really good.

Says the ringleader!

Well done Hoggs. How come you got moderatorised? Did I miss something?

Whip-round anyone?

Sounds about right Joeman.