Mr Fro

I joined here as a punt after getting fed up of other bike forums - especially the ones for the best (green) bikes that all seem to be US based. Ladies and gentlemen, a toast to forum dad and the mods who make this a fun place! Mine's a rum ta.

You lot need to get Halfords trade cards - bulbs and stuff are pennies.

What does the thread on the spindle look like? You shouldn't need to do the nut up mega tight as the retaining tab/washer will keep it in place - just do it up so the sprocket is solid and fold the washer thing up. You should be able to feed the chain through everything as it is. You can use a zip tie to bring the ends of the chain together to make it easier to get the link through (unless you have three hands).

http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/books-that-shaped-america/1900-1950/Assets/ba0055_enlarge.jpg

Aye - all pretty straight forward jobs. CCT and valves are easy enough if you follow the manual. Plus you get to buy yourself a set of vernier or micrometers.

Only if you lot stop banging on about bloody Christmas.

You don't need a grinder - I've done them before taking off the end of the rivet with a file. It takes a few mins but it works. Be careful if you try and push it out with the tool without taking the head off, the pins on the tool can bend or snap if you give it too much welly!

I get mine from Suffolk Steel. Good prices and reasonable delivery. They'll probably chop it up for you too.

Definitely going to get some heavy use so whatever I use needs to be up to the job. So long as it sticks well to the concrete and fills all the voids then self levelling should be fine (says my brain without much evidence ) I don't mind spreading the muck about a but but I want to avoid troweling if I can... I had a bash at plastering once... it didn't go well!

My workshop floor is all wibbly-wobbly where it was originally tamped (bit like a really heavy brushed finish). There's also a bit of a fall off to the rear corners. The finished surface will probably be PVC floor tiles so I need to minimally fill the "troughs" in the ripples to prevent knackering the tiles. I'm a bit torn - I was thinking to either use a dry sand/cement mix and filling to the top of the peaks but I'm concerned that because the underside of the PVC tiles is hollow that the tiles could sink over time. Option 2 is self levelling - I have no experience of it. Is it really as simple as mixing it up, pouring it, shoving it about with a spiked roller then presto, it's smooth and flat? YouTube/Google are contradictory - some say pour it and it'll flatten out whereas others say you need to trowel it off or you end up with mounds. Any info or experience would be great! Cheers, Fro

Is it still going? I thought the ginger twat killed it stone dead.

Only below a specific speed - think it's quite low.

I'm with Phil. One of mine very nearly fell off half way through a track session! Deffo get some thread lock on them.

I think that went well all things considered.

Hold on there dear boy, us Pastafarians call this time of year "Holiday" - a special time of year when we enjoy the sacred trio of pasta, beer and sex care workers.

I use wooden hangers [strikeout]stolen[/strikeout] appropriated from trendy clothes stores such as Timberland and the like. Disclaimer: I don't wear fashionable clothes and am in no way trendy.

I'm with six on this one - I was expecting at least a small fire or something. It's dead easy to miss silly things - I rebuilt a red top GM engine in my teens after I popped a piston. When I tried to start it, it would rev on the throttle and die off it. I spent hours getting more and more pissed off and finally went to bed. The next morning I looked at it and noticed the cocking great, blindingly obvious hose I'd not connected to the intake manifold. Screwed it on and job done.

Man, I'm shite at wheelies. Getting the front up on the power is easy enough but my instinct makes me get over the front to bring it back down. I can confirm however that the absolute best time to do a burn out is immediately before you trade it in.

That's what I thought but the tank is the wrong shape (from the pic anyway) and the carb isn't right. Engine does look like a Jawa twin though.

I had the same thing recently at the tip here - I had a few small pieces of plasterboard and was told there'd be a charge for each. Have you seen the new "life long ISA"? Gubberment talk for "You ain't gettin' no pension bitch".

Good point Joeman. The router could be run straight from the dump on the charge controller I suppose as the battery will fill up pretty quickly with a 200W panel. I run 8W worth of panels to an old 065 battery (plus a couple of 7ah PSU batteries) to drive 9x LED MR16 bulbs. That's plenty bright enough and I rarely run out of juice. Sounds like a fun project though - let us know how it goes!

You sure about that beefs? Check your sump plug and get the correct thread.

STOP! Before you do anything, have a look at Stahlbus oil drain valves. I've put them in the both the bikes and they're great. You could easily araldite/chemical metal it in permanently and still be able to change your oil. You could use it as an upgrade point when you come to sell too. Ideally you should get that TIGged up but that will be a sump off job to get it clean enough to fuse properly and then chase the thread.

And don't be afraid to use a good bit of oil to help it slide in.

Don't forget to stick a rag down the crankcase hole or turn the engine on it's side before you drift out the gudgeon pin just in case you've got loose needle bearings. You really don't want those dropping in to the crank.