iangaryprice

Are the indicators LED, if so you may need resistors or an indicator unit that is for LEDS.

I managed 210mile on my GSX600F, forgot I was on reserve and nearly ran out. When I did finally fill up it took 19.85l (20l tank) Noramally I go onto reserve between 130 - 160 miles, reserve is 5 litre - another 40+ miles.

Bubble wrap is OK -its not single use. Use 1 - wrap your items in it. Use 2 - have fun popping all the bubbles.

The Lambda sensor is an essential sensor for the injection system. It measures the level of Oxygen in the exhaust, if Oxygen is present, then the mixture is weak, if no oxygen then the misture is rich. The output of the sensor 0.1V - Oxygen present - lean mixture 0.9v - no oxygen - rich mixture. From the symptoms you describe, the bike runs for the first few minutes - while cold the Lambda sensor is not used, the contrl unit uses preset value to fuel the engine. Once warm it will look for signals form the sensor to workout the mixture setting. In your case it seems that because the control unit is not seeing a signal, it has set the mixture either too weak or too rich for the engine to run. If you have no wiring of rth elambda sensor, has the bike got the correct wiring harness, or has the lambda sensor wires been cut off. Also the fuel injection models use a different set of clocks to the carb models. Injection clocks have a fuel injection warnnng light & the rev counter works form different signals.

Yes Bill Smiths been around along time, known them since I was a teenager. I used to live close to them when they were based in Westminster road. They now have 2 shops, Hondas on the A41 just outside Chester and other makes nearer to Chester town centre. I often drop in the all makes shop, good burger/coffee van in the car park.

A thumbs up from me too. A nice blend of retro and upto date. I liked the look of the Katana when I saw it from the front, but oh dear what happened to the back end!

Looks to me that it is in the "tread" area not the side wall. If it held enough pressure to get you home, then its unlilley there is any serious damage. Should be OK to get it plugged. I got my rear puncture fixed a few months ago for £20.

It is on the BBC news website today. It appears it will reopen as a Whisky distillery. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-50815148

What about the EU law realting to a maximum 48 hours a week? Or did the UK opt out?

Earlier YBR125 had a carb (upto about 2009 I think) Later ones have fuel injection. The fuel injection ones have a Lambda sensor in the exhaust. So unfortuantely although they will bolt on, you would not then have a lambda sensor, preventing the fuel injection system working correctly .

Your bike is looked good as it is, the Thundercat syling has aged well, still looks good. I'm not keen on the Fiat, rear wheel and other graphics though! Most of your rust seems to be on fasteners and other small metal parts. Might be worth considering getting an Electroless NIckel plating kit. A guy at work has one, he's been plating bits on his BSA, they look good. Lots of rear lights tend to be on the big side, smaller LED one would be a good move. I like the twin round ones, sort of endurance racer look. Changing your wheel colour to black might make it look a bit more uptodate. My bike has black wheels, which at first I didn't like & considered getting them sprayed silver, but then I realised it would make it look like an earlier bike, so stuck with black. (My bikes 2003, the same model 1997-2000 had silver wheels). Let us know what you decide.

The first bubble is the normal curved shape of a standard screen, then the centre part has a 2nd higher bubble. They are intended to deflect the airflow higher and hopefully over the rider. If you find the standard screen results in airflow hitting you at visor level, then a double bubble screen should raise the airflow higher and over your head. I was tempted to buy one for my GSX600, after I scratched the standard screen, buy never got around to it.

I managed to remove and replace both bulbs in my GSX without reeoving the fairing. I turned the handlebars one way or the other to get better access, 1, reach in and pull the connector off the bulb. Waggling side to side helps. 2. Remove the rubber cover over the bulb. 3. Using a torch have a good look at how the bulb retaining spring latches. 4. Reach in and release the spring latch. 5. Open the spring latch as far as you can without straining it. 6. Lift the bulb out. Note which way around it was fitted - helps when putting it back. 7. If you have H7/H1 bulbs they have a plastic adaptor (I dont know if H4 bulbs have adaptors). Refitting - obviously the reverse, but a few tips might help. 1, tuck the connectors out of the way - a piece of sticky tape can help. 2. Pad out the area below the headlight with sponge and or rags, reduces chance of bulb breaking if you drop it. 3, Move the handlebar to give you the best access, try both ways to see which is best. 4, Your hand will obscure the hole you are trying to put the bulb in, so try feeling for the way in first without the bulb, to get a feel for it. 5, When putting the rubber boot back on, again your hand will obscure what you are doing, so you hold the rubber with one finger through the centre hole, use that finger to guide it over the connector prongs on the bulb. A light smear fo silicon grease on the rubber boot makes it easier to fit and helps seal water out. 6, Similar for connector, you ahve to work bling so use fingers to feel the way on.

I am still commuting most days, I used ca ron Mnday because the road was white with frost. Tuesday and weds it was warmer, so used the bike. I've got the day off tomorrow, then friday we are out for a meal after work so I need to use the car. I will continue to the bike through the winter, but sue the car if its icy.

I've not been able to find a solution to the patchy beam. The 2nd bulb wasa lot brighter. I am now looking to get a better bulb. Phillips, Osram etc do bulbs that are brighter, (night breaker etc) but still 55w so they don't cause heat problems. Also "e" marked so completely legal. I had some Osram Nightbreaker in my last car and they were noticably brighter. They were +120%, now they do +150%. Bikes form 1996 onwards all had twin headlight (earlier had a single headlight). Upto about 2000 both headlights illuminated on dip and on high both switched to the 2nd "high" filament, On later ones (mine included) the nearside light is on all the time, on high beam the offside one is on as well. Both types of twin headlight are interchangable, but some wiring mods are required (mine has 2-pin connectors, would need chnaging to 3-pin)

One potentially expensive problem I had with mine was a leaking petrol tank. At first I thought the needle vales were leaking, there was often petrol on the floor in the morning. I soon realised it was coming from the petrol tank drain pipe - it exits near the exhaust - great idea Suzuki, if the bike leaks petrol dump it on the exhaust! If you open the petrol filler cap at about 3 o clock position you will see a small hole, this it to let water drain out of the recess. The hole goes to a metal pipe that goes through the tank and out of the bottom. Mine rusted through, and started to leak petrol when the tank was more then 2/3 full. I had a quote for a palce that specialisedin tank repairs, then would cut the pipe out, insert a new one, and respray the tank to original colour, but £200+vat+postage both ways. I did a successflu repair myself, inserted a length of copper pipe (car brake pipe) inside the metal pipe, flared the top end and used petrol resistant epoxy to seal it. At the bottom end I trimmed the old pipe level with the tank, cleaned it well. The I soldered the pipe to the tank and exisitng tube, using wet cloths to prevent heat damaging the paint work. It worked really well, the repair is barely noticable, 100% leak free, and cost me nothing! Safety advice - due to naked flame for dsoldering, I drained all the fuel, then blew compressed air to remove fumes, left it overnight with filler cap and tap removed, folowing day blew air through again untill I was sure there were no petrol fumes remaining.

funny mine is same if left for few weeks.starts on full choke but very "fuffly" and nearly off pots and then clears itself to rev high 4-5000 on choke requiring you to ease it back to 2000ish rpm.runs OK after that but I suspect its running rich as its had a can on it and I bought it with original can refitted ..did u renew needles or dampers? Starting my GSX600F is similar if I havn't used for several days. Turning fuel tap to PRI helps get it started. Usually find this works best ifit hasn't been used for a while. Full choke, in neutral, clutchin, dont touch throttle, hit starter, when engine starts dont touch throttle, wait for eenigne reve to get to 3500 or higher, slowly easy back choke to more acceptable revs, redie off witha little bit of cheoke, after a minute no choke. Most of the time is starts without choke, about 5degC or less and it needs choke.

I have a GSX600FK3. bought it nealry 6 years aago. Reliability has been fairly good. It broke down not long after I bought it, had to be AA rescued home. Turned out ot be a simple bad connectionon the battery earth lead. I have just fitted a new starter motor, brushes wore out. Other then these 2 problems its just been the usual tyres, chain sprockets, brake pads.

Its better with the other bulb in, more light but still a patchy light beam. Earlier models were fitted with H4 twin filament bulbs, with tis setup both lights are on for both dipped and main beam. I looked at getting a second habd headlightof this type bu they were expensixre form breakers, I think because its seen as an upgrade!

Thanks for the feedback, I have been out to the garage to have another look at it. The lights are defintely the correct way round, the Low beam has a H7 as I said before, but I was wrong about the High beam it's a H1 bulb. I have only ever seen H1 used for higbeam, so they are the correct way around, also the wires would not reach to swap them over. I took the bulb out of low beam and although working did not look good. I changed it to the spare I had for my car. It seems much brighter and a better spread of light. I will see how it is on the way home from work tomorrow. I am tempted to get some Osram Nightbreaker +150 bulbs, I had the in a revious car and they were definitly better than standard bulbs.

Hi, It looks like your photo has not attached correctly, there is only the filename visible. I think you are talking about a chain alignment tool? If you post the photo I can comment.

I have a Suzuki GSX600F 2003. It has twin headlights, only one is on with Dipped beam. Whan I switch on High beam the 2nd light comes on, the dipped light stays on as it was. Both lights have H7 single filament bulbs in them. I have suspicion they are the wrong way around, The beam patterm for the high beam light seems to be better suited to dipped beam. The low beamlight as currently setup is the nearside one (left), high beam the offside (right) one. When on low beam there is very little light on the ground close to the bike. On high beam the ground near the bike lights up a lot more even thought the beam is set higer then the dipped one. Can those of you with twin lights where only one is on on low beam let me know which one (left or right) illuminates.

Try "google" I think it means consult the handbook, but usually there is another warning light as well. Could be dueofra service if no other lights on.

Have the same problem with my wife. I bought a new car a few months ago, drove it home, had lunch. Nice day so went out for a ride on my bike. When I got back she asked "why didn't you go in your new car"

I commute 20 miles to work on my bike. I have to be smartly dressed at work, i.e Shirt and Trousers. Textle jacket and trousers with inbult armour is what I wear over my shirt and trousers. On my feet are leather motorcylce boots that I change to shoes in the office. If there is heavy rain I add a fluourescent yellow waterproof jacket over the top, mainly because my "waterproof" textile jacket is not! I have a 1-piece waterproof overall, it is waterproof but is a pain to put on, so I rarely use it.