iangaryprice

If the master cylinder was for a single disc, it will be small diamter to provide more force to a single odsc. A master cylinder for a twin disc bike will be larger diameter, to provide sufficient fluid for 2 callipers. This will provide less force but the force willl be applied to 2 discs, so you gain back the braking force. Also as stated above the size of the master cylinder has to be matched to the callipers. I would suggest getting a master cylinder from the same model of bike that the callipers came from.

Whatever it is - there will be one for sale on EBay and/or Amazon.

I was about to suggest that the last plate (outer) goes in the shallower slot. I suspect it in someway helps the plated seperate and prevent drag when you pull the clutch lever in. I would also check the release bearing is in good condition, this may be the cause of the noise.

BT21 wear out quickly, one on the fornt of my GSX600 only lasted 6,000. The original Micheln had done 19,000. Bridgestone seem to be able to make either grippy tyres or long lasting tyres I put a new Michelin Pilot 2 on the rear at 29,000 currently at 37,000 and looks like it will las another 4-5,000 (total 12-13,000) If you want longer lasting tyre that still offers good grip (especially in the wet) go for Michelin.

I would also say 3mm is too thin. 1.5mm (post above) definitely too thin Best way is to get an engineering shop to machine to size out of mild steel. (all the specares I have sen are steel).

I have been looking at some Nickel plating kits on EBay recently, price doesn't seem unreasonable. Nickel plating is quite popular with small engineering firms now because the chemicals are less dangerous than Zinc plating. Finish usually ends up looking like chrome but not as shinny. The hardest part is getting all the corrosion off before plating.

The way to deal with this problem on cars is to buta n OBDII interface, plug it into the vehicle and a laptop. Then using apropriate software you can read the fault code reset the system. I bought one fro £!5 off ebay, it came with software the=at works on mnay cars, I have used it to reset lights on my daughters car and read information on my Mondeo. Can you get similar that wrks on bikes?

I remember getting a GSX750 home from LeMans by fixing a broken clutch pushrod with the spike form the top of a tent pole & a rivet link to fix the chain.

I missed that bit, if petrol has got into the engine oil, then engine failure would occur form poor lubrication. Petrol is not a god lubricant, it would thin the oil down. It does take a reasonable amount of petrol, a small amount would evaporate reasonably quickly ona cold engine or very quickly on a hot engine. As I said before what is the oi like. very thin oil can be due to petrol in it, The smell will be a give away (you have already noticed it). Sticking needle valve is the usual cause, allowing petrol to continally drain through. Check the air box to see of there is petrol in there. Also what position is the petrol tap left in? On main tank it should be vacuum controlled, so fuel willonly flow when the engine is running.

If there are metal fillings in the oil then there is significant engine damage. Engine will need to be stripped and all moving parts inspected/measured for wear. You need to find out why the engine failed, could just be worn out, or lack of oil, old or poor oil, The condition of the oil can tell you a lot. What did it look like apart from the metal fillings? If you are lucky allthe fillings will be from one worn bearing, replace it clean everrything, rebuild engine anoff you go again. If you are unlucky everything that moves will be worn. The YBR engine does not have a very good filter, it s basically just a mesh plate ot catch any large parts. Oil should be changed every 1800miles,

FS1E was my first bike as well! By far hte most popular in thise days, there were some Honda SS50 & Suzuki AP50 and a few Italina sports mopeds. FS1E was technically a moped, my first real bike was 1978 Yamaha RD125.

They need to sort the rules out in case this happens again. Total farce and unfair on Miller. Also well Cal! First British ride to top the championship since Sheen.

If its raining I put cuffs over gloves, a little tricky with my kit but it does keep my hands dry. If rain is really heavy. I have my textile on for protection, gloves over cuffs, then my waterprooof 2nd layer over the top (cuffs over gloves. As mentioned above Textile jackets that are supposed to be water proof often aren't!

I would recommend tackling the "stuck in 2nd gear first" - this could be anything from sinple 5 min fix to severly damaged gearbox. Sort this bit out, then you can decide if the rest is worth fixing. It might be owrth consideringbuyinga complete but non-runner/mot fail with the amluntof parts you need. Good luck, hope you sort it, sounds like it means a lot to you.

Hollow rubber tube is lilely to be justa drain or breather. You could try blocking th eend to see if it helps. Running for a few minutes then stopping suggests fuel starvation or overheating. Has it got plenty of fuel in it? If the fuel tap is on main tank try turning it to reserve. If it hasa PRI position try that.

Disconnect battery. ECU, alternator, rectifier. Basically anything electronic. Also watch for angle grinder sparks and weld splatter. Both can damage any surface they land on. Sometimes up to several feet away. Remove ptrol tanks and move it well away.

I've never used 11mm on a bike, but as some one has already commented its a common size on car bleed nipples. I know what you mean about 7mm A/F allen keys, I have several sets amd only one has a 7mm in it, and I use it quite often!

I bought a Shark Sqwal LED last year, best helmet I have ever had. I spent ages looking for a new Helmet, none felt comfortable untilI I tried the Shark at the bike show. Got a good deal on it as well, £160 from the show, cheapest on Ebay was £220. The LED lights are a bit "gimmicky" I dont think they are really bright enough. Rest of hlemet is excellent, vents are good, comfortable, visor stay sout in any position, doen't leak and it has Pnlock.

My daughters bought me a home brew kit for Xmas. Just tring to foid time to get brewing now. Should be straight forward, its a full kit, including bottles.

Good point, I avoided hammering on the calliper. Using a Trox hammered in does sometimes work, but the poblem with these bolts is the small HEX size. Its only 6mm A/F for an M10 bolt because of the reduced head size. Normally an M10 bolt has a 8mm A/F.

I won't be working on the calliper agian until the weekend, so I 'm applying plus gas regularly in the meantime to give it chance to soak in. Unfortunately the grip drive sockets won't get enough purchase on the heads, The bolts are the shallow cap head type with rounded edges. Doesn't help that the hex size is small because of the head shape, 6mm for an M10 bolt! Overhaul kit arrived to day, it includes new pins, so I have options available to get this sorted.

Thanks for your advice. I will try to seperate the calliper without cutting the pins. I now have another problem, one of the caliper joint bolts is also siezed, hex has rounded off, Hence looks like I will have to drill the head off. New bolts ordered!

I need to replace the rear pads om my GSX600F (Tokiko callipers). Tried to remove the pins but they are corroded in. The calliper looks like it needs an overhaul anyway so I have ordered a kit that includes all the seals and new pins and clips. One of the seals is for the joint between the calliper halves. Hence it looks like the best way to get the pins out is to cut through them in the middle. Then seperate the two halves, hopefully then I can get at the pins ot remove them. Anybody else done this?

Check the brake calliper and brake pads slide freely. A friend had a GS1000 that wobbled bady above 60mph. We checked the tyre for run out, wheel for balance and buckling, weel bearings for play, head bearings, all seemed OK. It was only when we tried spinning the front wheel after another test run, we noticed a bit of drag form the brakes. On inspection one of the pads was jammed in the calliper, we cleaned the edges up removed all the dirt and problen solved.

Have you tried 2 nuts on the stud, tightened agaist each other. Install the stud. Use 2 spanners to remove the nuts.