iangaryprice

If there is no oil in the forks they will feel very bouncy and probably fail the MOT. If |I remeber correctly the oil in the YBR is set by adding the correct amount, so you have ot drain it all first, then refill with the correct amount of fresh oil. To drain the oil yuo hav eot remove th fork to tip it upside down. You could try removing the cap and pull the spacer and sprin gout, then use a rod as a dip stick to see how much is in there.

I thought light transmission had to be greater than 85% for all windows/visors/shields that are permanently in line of view. Items you can quickly remove form line of view i.e. sunglasses, pivoting sun shades etc. arre allowed to be darker. Hence a pinlock if it does stop more then 85% cannot be removed easily therfore illegal! Are you sure they only allow 85% through, compared to my car windows (definitly legal) my viso/pinlock appears to let a lot more light through.

Since the power increases when the choke is on. it is almost ceetainly carb releated. Check the intake rubbers - any cracks or splits will allow air to enter weakening the mixture, reducing power. Try draining the carbs one at time into a clear jam jar. Check how much petol come soutof each. If any carbs have less then the needle valve could be sticking. If there is any water or dirt inthe fule then the carbs will need claening. Sometimes a dose of redex will work, it does not do any harm if it does not work so worth a try,

With half of the UK watching football and the other half watching the wedding. Looks like a good day to be out on the bikes!

There is an emmisions control unit under the petrol tank. It has a metal flap inside that forms a one way valve. They sometimes get noisy especially in cold weather.

I have Michelin Pilot Road 2's on my GSX600F. Excellent tyres. Gripp well in the dry, predictable in the wet. Last well. Will easily get over 10K out of them. Not tried the newer Pilot Road 3 or 4, but lots of good comments about them. Michelins are original equipment on my bike. Previously it had a Bridgestone Battlax on the front. Good grip but wear rate was terrible, I don't ride hard but the sides were down to limit after on;y 5k. Others have complained that Bridgestones last well but dont grip - seems to depend on which model of tyre.

I missed the show last year but went the previous 2 years. I enjoyed it, having been out of the bike scene for a few years it ws good to see all th ecurrent bikes in one place. I bought some gear, prices not that good but if I had bought on line I would have got the wrong sizes. I agree food prices area rip off, I took my own! I went to the Manchester motorcycle show in spring this year. That was a good day out, got a good deal on a new lid, £50 cheaper then on line!

The big advantage of the show over buying on line is actually being able see to see & try the items you want to buy. For helmets it is essential to try them on to ensure a good fit. For all clothing its a good idea. I bought jacket and trousers at Live 2 years ago, I needed 2 sizes larger then I though I would need! The Manchester motorcycle show was good last year, I got a current model Shark helmet for £160, cheapest on Ebay was £210

Wire them into the ignition, that way when the ignition is turned off the hested grips are off. If you wire them direct to the battery, if you forget to turn them off, you will return ot a bike with a flat battery. Just be carefull with the power required to run them. Small bikes don't have much spare power available from the alternator, so the battery could end up flat.

I hada good day out at the Museum a few years ago, must go again, looks like they have added a lot more bikes. Last time I went was a few years after it re-opened following the fire.

I personally htink this is dangerous, whilst many vehicles of this age will be well looked after/restored/maintained. There will be others who take to the roads with old/laid up vehicles.

It recommends switching to off to ensure no fuel will flow (leak out). The float and needle valve on the carb should stop the fuel, but they can stick, if this happens fuel can continue too flow and will leak out causing the risk of fire etc. Many newer/larger bikes have a "vacuum fuel tap (cock)" The flow of fuel on this is controlled by vacuum from th engine. When the engne is not running there is no vacuum so no fuel flows. Hence you can leave this type of tap switched on.

As already recommended above. Use 6 sided socket - less chance of rounding the bolt head. Try loosening with the engine hot, sump pans are usually aluminium which expands more then steel (bolt) Hence it will be easier to undo. When trying to undo the bolt apply the force in a rotary direction. IF you need an extension bar on the socket, support the end of the extension with one hand while pushing the end of the wrench with he other hand. Tight bolts with often free suddenly, wear a pair of gloves to avoid injury to your hands.

I bought a new battery for my bike earlier this year. The instructions showed how to fill the cells wi the acid provided, then wait the required time. Connect the battery up and go. It will already be fully charged, attemtingot charge it will not achieve any positve results, but could damage the battery. Just follow the instructions exactly.

It does sound like a fuel problem, Where you running low on fuel? Most fuel taps are vacuum actuated, it could be a problem with this, often the diaphrams fail (fule will only flow while engine is running) If it happens again, you could try turning the tap to "pri" if it has a prime setting (fuel will flow wothput engine running). On some bikes the reserve setting is not vacuum operated (read your handook see what it says the tap positins do).# Othe rproblems could be dirt in the carb (assuming your bike is caRB). if your bike is fuel injected you may have a pump problem. But it may be worth changing the fuel filter.

A soft faced mallet, usefull for drifting out wheel spindles etc with out damaging them. A good setof screwdrivers. Pair of mole grips. Magnetic dish is really useful to avoid loosing all the small nuts bolts you take off.

Are you sure the restof the baffle is still inside the exhaust, it used to be ocmmon to shorten them for more noise or Power (debatable)

I got my Shark Sqwal a few months ago form the Manchester Bike show. Mine is white with black/grey graphics Really like it. I havn't noticed a problem with the abrasion of the interior, I normally wear a thin balaclava to help keep the iterior clean, this my be why I don't notice a problem. Pinlock is much better then my previous helmet, on my last helmeet the top edge was almost in line of sight, the Shark is barely visible. Sun visor is great, easy to use, dont have any problems with it being stiff Still havn't made my mind up about he LED's, I don't think they are bright enough. I think the chin strap lock is not secure enough, it only needs a very light pull to release the ratchet.

As above get a new one ASAP. With some strands broken the remaining strands will be under more stress and will soon fail.

As most of the above posts say. You will generally need a summer pair and a winter pair. Concentrate on the summer pair for now. Around October you will be thinking about gettign your winter pair. Best to go to Bike shop and try them on. A good fit is important, you want to be able to operate all your handle bar controls and open/close your visor.

As above study hte manual. If you are lucky it will be accesible by removing the clutch cover onthe other side of th eengine. You may also need ot remove the clutch. Welding it will cause heat damage to at least the oil seal for the shaft if not more. Then you will have problems with future maintenance.

Redex is worth a try. It does help remove some dirt etc. It can also help remove water which is another sourceof trouble in carbs. One of the car programmes did a test on it (actually a fue injection engine). It actually turned out to be the most cost effective way to increase power.

Use the hydraulics to remove it. Put the 3 pistons back in. Reconnect hose. Use a block of wood to prevent 2 of the pistons moving out again. Clamp the remaining free one with a g-clamp. Punp the master cylinder to push the tight one out. Be careful near the end because it could pop out spraying fluid allover the place. Sometimes if you are lucky you can remove it using compressed air instead of connecting to the bikes y=hdraulics. Depends how tight it is.

First time I have heard of doing this, I have known head bolts need to be re-torqued 500miles after refitting head (let it settle down then re-torque). I would have thought loosening the head bolds could damage the head gasket. I have a GSX600F, similar type engine, not seen anything in the manual about re-torquing head on mine.

That part shown in your photo is a filter, if it had black bits in it, then its doing its job of keeping dirt out. Down side is it could now be blocked and preventing fuel getting tothe carb. Also means you have dirt in the fuel. Have a look in the tank to see if the fuel looks dirty. Take the filter off and reverse flush it by connecting it the opposite way round to the fuel pipe with other end (carb end) inot a clean glass jar. Look to see if any dirt comes out and the fuel flows freely, If you get lots of dirt and/or the fuel does not come out freely, then replace the filter.