iangaryprice

Some photos of my heated grips. Left grip is a neat fit. The rigth one hasa gap between the grip and the bar end weight. I need to find something to fill the gap. The wiring I fed backwards an dunder the fairing. All the connections are hidden under the tank.

Weather in the UK at present is not nice, it chnages every day. We have had 2 storms so far causing a fair amount of damage, todays not bad, about 8c and very little wind and no rain, but roads are mostly wet and not drying out. We had some snow last week as well.

These are the ones I bought off ebay. £15.79. I connected mine into the headlight wire (headlight live when ignition is on) so did't need a relay. I put a 10amp breaker in the line (going to change it for a 5amp one soon). I like the lack of control box as well, the oxford ones are quite large and stand out. These grips are fairly unobtrusive, only the control on the left grip shows they are fitted (wiring is mostly hidden). I didn't use the metal bracket supplied for the wiring on the right grip, I got it much neater with a cable tie ontot the exsiting wiring. I'll get some photos later and upload them. I checked the current draw with them set to maximum, it was about 2 amps (without engine running, I'll check again with enf=gine running). I think the Oxford ones are about 4 amps,

I think I will end up agreeing with you. I bought the cheap ones because I wasn't convinced. Only cost £14, (1/2 the costof R&G and 1/3 cost of Oxford), seem to work well, not sure how long they will last, they have a 5 year guarantee and seem fairly well made. After this afternoons test ride I realised I had not put the liners back in my Jacket and trousers (wondered why this winter seemed so cold). Should be nice and warm now - heated grips and thermal liners!

I ride mine most of the winter, MOT done last month, new Michelin Pilot road 4 fitted on front, I have a rear in the garage, it will be fitted soon. I fitted heated grips today and went for a test ride. I only got cheap ones £15 off ebay, but first impressions are good. I could feel the heat though my gloves aftera few minutes. Started on max heat setting (4) turned down to 3 after about 10 mins. I think 2 would have been best for a longer ride. Temp was about 8degC today so hopefully they are powerful enough for frosty mornings.

MOT time for my GSX600 today, passed with advisory - rear pads near limit. Been busy with it recently, new fornt tyre, new battery, replaced fuel hose & filter from tap to carbs .

I remember it, tried to climb it, not a good idea, slippery as hell!

I have just bought Pilot Road 4's for my bike. Had to get hem from 2 different places. No where had both sizes in stock. Front arrived in 2 days. For rear got a call saying they were out of stock, delivery would be about 2 weeks, not a problem for me, the front has about 1 month left in it, rear has more. Since it was a good price, I agreed to wait. Had to order a new battery today as well, thats already out for delivery, so should get it on wednesday.

They are usually visible, butby the time you have seen them it too late - they'vw got you. Also they havea habit of pairing them up, you see one, think there won't be another one anywhere near, then just down the road there is a second camera.

Fitted a replacement front caliper, rebuilt with new seals. Old one was loose, slide pins had rusted and worn. Been out for a test ride, busy at Sams cafe (by A&d Motorcycles inDenbigh). Didn't see a speed camera van today - unusual for sunday in North Wales.

Thanks fo rth ebirthday wishes, had a great day outon the sea messing with boats.

If you are lucky then the connector and all the positions are the same, in which case the wire colours don't matter. If the connector ois different then it will be a bit more work. Check what hte switch does between your model and an earleier one. Generally the wiring will be +12v input to the switch. IN off position nothing should be ocnnected to the input. In the "on" position there will be at least one output. +12v output - allows all the lights, horn etc to work. +12v output - engine ECU/ignition and starter. Both of the above should be connected tot the +12v input There will also be a parking light position. +12v output to sidelights. Only connected when in the parking position. Hope this helps,

This seems to have made the deadlines because the of the hammer thrown at the Cops. The crime started with stealing the bike, somebodys pride and joy that they had spend mamy hours earning the money to pay for. The police seem to dismiss the theft part as trivial, but if they treated it nore seriously then it wouldn't escallate to physicalattacks on them

One way to createa Hardtail but still have shocks!

I use a rag soaked in white spirit to clean the excess off then something like Gunk or Muck-off for a final clean. Meths does not disolve grease or oil very well.

As above the switches seem to work the wrong way around when not installed. Not pressed - switch closed. Preseed switch open. 3.4 Amp is about right for the current draw. Most bigger bikes have 2 bulbs - 2 x 21w =42w /12v =3.5amp.

I saw on the news, inflation is going up in the US mainly because 2nd hand vehicles are getting much more expensive.

Almost any vehicle from the seventies is worth a lot of money these days. I think this is because those of us in our fifties/sixties either had these vehicles or wanted them when were teenagers. Now we have disposable income to buy them, even at inflated classic vehicle price tags. Some are more sought after, the big headline bikes, Kawasaki Z900, Honda 750 for example. It's difficult to say which current bikes will become valuable classics. The bike market is very different now to when I was a teenager. Most bikes now are sunday toys, low mileage clean bikes (of which there are plenty) hold thier value well compared to cars, owners are older as well.

DID chains are good, often considered by many to be the best. they do gold versions. You need to look after gold chains, my bike had gold chain when I got it. It looked good untill winter, I omitted to keep plenty of grease on the side (gold part) the gold colouring started to come off because of rust and it looked horrible.

Make sure your footrests are clean as well, or you could find them slippy next ride, especially if its raining!

The bikes I had in the 70's 80's always ended up with ripped seats, they seem to be much more durable these days, my GSX600F still has original seat with no rips or tears (18 years and 50,000 miles) These days It seems to bemore common to modify seats than repairs. There seems to be a lot of riders who want to reduce seat height, one way is to mod the seat, althouugh suspensin ods seem to be the more common route. Are you looking at doing seat recovering as a sdie business?

It willl turn up 10mins after the replacement arrivesin the post!!!!

Can you post a photo of the part? If you are lucky carbs off something more comon like GSX might have th esame part.

GP - Great racing, I 'm hooked on it, Hoping the racing stays close for the rest of the season. GP2- Sam made a good start, then failed to finish, improving again. GP3 - Not a good start forMcPhee!

I had similar on my GSX600F, it was a bad connection on the earth lead. Some lights still worked because they found an earth path through other ways, but it wouldn't start. Test the battery with a a bulb, headlight bulb is ideal - it will draw about 4 amps which will gve it a good test. If bulb is bright for a few minutes then baterry is good. If battery is good, look fo ra bad connection. If battery is bad, you need to work out if its the battery or charging system. Charge the battery up and try it out. if it still bad then replace battery. If battery now looks good, check the voltage with engne running, should be at leasyt 14V.