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North Wales Police have a camera van that can operate in the dark. They are also frequently using them in pairs, to catch motorists that speed up after passin gth eforst van because they think ther e won't ba nother oe near by.

Draper Expert tools are good, I have a 1/4" socket set, only had one breakage 10mm socket in many years of use. Halfords are also good, I have has a 1/2" socket set for 30 years even the ratchet still working well, I wore out the 17mm (car wheel nuts) but all the rest are good.

Tappet clearance is the first thing to check. It costs nothing. It difficult to tell with a video recording, but I think I can hear an exhaust blow as well. To test for blowing exhaust, with cold engine running, rag over exhaust end to buld up backpressure feel around exhaust for leaks.

I think its only during the winter, we have daylight saving they don't.

If you are trying to show that high performance engines have different valve clearances to low peformnace engines, I don't think you are going to find that. 1. When the valve should be closed, you want to make sure it is, having clearance is a good way to ensure that. 2. Having clearance also helps oil get between the camlobe and the cam follower to help lubrication and reduce wear. 3. Engine temperature varies, cold when unused, hot when working, very hot when worked hard. Different components are made of different materials that all expand/contract different amounts. You need enough clearance to ensure there is alwaysa gap under all operating conditions of the engine. 3. Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid/water cooled so tend to have larger valve clearance. 4. Bigger engines tend to have larger clearance because the larger components expand/contract more. Are you sure you are not getting confused with Valve to piston clearance.

Stu ideas will help, upload a photo.

There are 2 types of fitting for these I have come across, 1. Simply screw into the end of the handlebar, on the end you will often find a plastic plug, remove that and inside is a hex socket, use an Allen ket to remove the bar end. 2. Push inot the end of the hndle bar, then there is a screw/hex socket, this is tightened and it draws a wedge inot he bar end to seure it in place. To remve you looses the screw and hopefully it is free enough to pull/twist the bar end out. If its stuck unscrew the srew several turns then tap it wilth a mallet this hould free it.

Bet your relieved your post transferred to the new set-up OK. Most of your engine is looking OK so far. I noticed you had low compression but the leak down was not too bad. Be interesting to see what wear you find, I would have expected with low compression to have poor leak down results as well. A trick I find successful for checking valves is to put the head upside down, cams out so all valves are closed. Fill the head cavities with petrol and see if it leaks through.

I've got a top box on mine, on a Rentec sports rack. Rack replaces the grab rail and also clamps to the grab rails under the seat. I've got R&G crash bungs on mine, sayed loads of fairing damge when I had a spill last year - ground a full 45deg chmafer on the end of the left hand one, I keep thinking of fitting heated grips, but then I think about changing my bike, but end up doing neither.

That will need to be replaced. Before removing front wheel check the bearings, spin - listen for roughness, pull rim side to side to check for play. New disc will mean new pads so no point in checking them. Seals in the calliper, worth thinkinng about eplacing them while fitting new disc and pads.

Looks good for £750. That cracked fork seal is actually only the dust shield, they rust inside and then crack like that. With a bit of luck the actual seal below is OK, even if it isn't there are fairly eas to do. I remeber now that I put new seals in mine. One side was leaking so I did both. Pitty about the tank colour, it may have had the same problem as mine wi the leagind water drain pipe. Exhaust looks good, mine has the original. Mileage 29,000 should be plently of life left in it yet, mine has done 45,000 and engine still good. They are a well proven engine.

If its your forst attempt at striping cleaning carbs, I would recommend. 1. Take photos to help put everything back together correctly. 2. Before dismantling check for fuel leaks - note which carbs are leaking, these may need new floats/valves. 2. Do one pair first, then if you are unnsure about how to reassemble you can look ath he the other 2. 3. Have a good clean area to work on, a light coloured surface and good lighting, carb parts are small and easy to loose. 4. Ultrasonic cleaner is useful, but if you don't have one, aerosol carb cleaner. 5. The carbs will need a balance afterwards, but can be set up approximately by visually setting the throttle flaps so they all move to 6. Check clean/replace th efule filter, ifi t hasn't got one fit one, you don't all your hard work goingto waste by getting the carbs fullof dirt again.

I bought my GSX600f six years ago for £1500. Its 2003 21,000miles 3 months MOT, most service history, 3 owners. Condition was good, paintwork all correct colur and in good condition excelt belly pan had some damge where it had got too close to exhausy and partly melted. I've never got around to reairing this properly, its not that visible. Front tyre was worn out, rear had 4mm. Chain & sprockets had life left in them. Its now done 45,000 miles. Reliability has been fairly good. New starter fitted, rear shock replaced with second hand one. Rear brake light switch replaced, calipers rebuilt with new seals, everything else has been the usual servicing ependable itelms tyres chain etc. Potentially expensive repair was the drain tube in the tank fromthe filler cap area rested through and eaked petrol. I managed to fit a coper pipe inside and solder it to the tank wihtout damaging the paint work. Been leak free for 2 years now & repair is barely visible. £800 for the one you describe is probably about right, it depends what you wanto to do with it. If you just want to use it and leave it looking as is, it would be a cheap run about. On th eother hand if you want to amkeit look good, that will cost, so you would be better off getting one that s already good. There are some good buys around, these models are not that sought after - which to me makes them good value.

I had a Bridgstone on the front of my GSX600F, not sure which type - think it was BT-21. It wore out on the right side, in just under 4,000miles. My commute home from work included 3 roundabouts - all right turn at speed, which seemed to be the reason for the right side wear. I now have Michelin Pilot Road, much better tyre, lasts longer and wearing more evenly. Dry road grip maybe a bit down on the Bridgestone, but wet grip is better.

It sounds like fueling problem, running weak on wide throttle openings. Check for air leaks, the rubber carb to cylinder head connector can perish and let air in. Have you missed any air hoses off when refitting the carb? Are they all connected correctly. Check the fuel from the tap is flowing freely. If its a vacuum controlled tap, try running the bike with it set to prime. Has it got an air filter? Is it clean? Does the bike mhavea ny engine mods? It yes it may need different jets in the carb.

I have a GSX600F 2003 not impressed with my headlight either. Low beam a terrible pattern, bascially 3 patches of illumination. High beam has no pentration,it barely reaches any further than the low beam,it actualy seems to have a wider spread of light than the low beam. (I even checked they weren't connected the wrong way around) I put a +150% bulb in last week, its lot brighter, definite improvement, but still got a bad light pattern.

Are you sure it was engine related. Could be a binding brake. If it does it again check the discs/drums for excess heat - be careful not to burn yourself. Other quick checks worth doing - make sure nothong is blocking the air intake. I left a rag under the seat once and i got sucked into the air intake. Open the filler cap - if you hear a gush of air - you may have a blocked tank vent.

Its very complicated, look it up on the web, Parkers website seems to do a good job of explaining it. It seems most pickups are taxed the same as Transit ype vans, currenlty I think its about £270/year.

Have you got the fuel tap on prime!

As said above the gold is just colour on the side of the links. You can get other coloures as well. Doesn't hel with the working of the chain, just make sit look better when new. My bike had a "gold" chain when I bought it, Looked good when it was clean, but showed the dirt and looked bad after only a few miles. After 1 winter the colour started to flake off making it look bad all the time. Since I ride throught the winter I replaced it when worn out with a non coloured chain.

Wel done, very good information, well written and easy to understand.

Yes your right about the friction. The question iis what caused the friction. All moving parts have some friction. When they are working correctly the friction is minimal, hence the heat generated from the friction is also small, so they may get warm but not hot. Something will have gone wrong with the speedo drive to increase the friction. Possible causes are lubrication - no grease or water got in. Corrosion, causing the moving parts to get tight, hence more force needed to move them, so more heat - Broken part - won't rotate freely, again more force, more heat. Plastics don't like heat, some can't even cope with boiling water (100degC), heat resistant plastics can deal with 200degC plus. Go past thier temperature limit and the effects are very noticable - as you have seen.

Well done, good to hear its running well.

Replacement rear shock arrived today for my GSX600F. I got it MOTed last saturday,passed with an advisory that the rear shock rebound was stiff. I suspected a siezed bottom linlkage, disconnected the rear shock, linkages fine but shock has had it. I removed the spring, the damper rod pushes in with the expected damping resistance, but it is extremely difficult to pull out. Used one off ebay for £30, seems to be working fine but looks rough. I am going to swap the springs, because the one off the bike is fairly rust free unlike the replacement. The shock is going to get a clean up and coat of pain, before it goes on.

This appears to be bent valves. There are 3 ways they could have got bent. 1. They were damaged when the engine was run out of oil. 2. During assembly or disassembly, you rotated the crankshaft bringing the piston up to TDC while the valves were open. You need to make sure the cam is positioned so the valves are all closed. Don't rotate the crank untill the vlaves are closed. or 2. The timing was set wrong so the piston contacted the valves when the engine was rotated. When you fit the new top end you need to make sure you dont make the same mistake again. Most engines are timed with the piston at TDC. While the head is off, check the timing mark for the crank you are using puts the piston at TDC. Then check the timing mark for the camshaft positions the camshaft so both valves are closed. After asembly, leave the spark plug out. Rotate the engine at least 2 full revolutions, feel for any resistance, if you feel any STOP, then recheck to find out what is wrong.