iangaryprice

Take the tank off, then you should be able to see the coil packs. Best to remove the tank while fuel level is low, gets a bit heavy when full. On some bikes you need to lift the rear of the tankup to disconnect the fuel pipe, Vacuum pipe (if fitted), fuel gauge wiring ( if fitted). Sometimes you can get at hem with the tank in place. Coil packs should be simple to replace - 2 bolts, HT lead /plug cap, and the low voltage wiring. Often worth taking photos before you remove anything so you can see where parts have to go back.

The notches in the clutch basket look really bad to me, particularly the center where the metal plates locate. I have seen ones with marks where the plates touch but never actual indents like that. These notches can prevent the plates moving easily which then allows the plates to seperate to prevent clutch drag. Try cleaning the faces up with a file, if you need to remove a lot of metal, then a replacement centre may be required. The outer is not too bad where the friction plates locate. I would expect that can be cleaned up with a file/abrasive. Its difficult to tell how badly worn the friction plates are from the photos. You really need to measure the thickness with a micrometer /vernier. You will need the specifcation for the thickness (new and wear limit).

Have you checked the ignition timing? Points go outof setting quickly.

Same here, had mine for 35 years.

Mine is a bit different to a Seagull. Yamaha V4 130hp 1700cc - pushes my 17ft Fletcher to over 50mph. Gives environmentalists nightmares - about 6mpg is lucky and 2-stroke oil!

I'm still having withdrawal symtoms from 2-strokes. Still got a 2-stroke outboard for summer time fixes.

Theya re the ones I was tryingto remember, they get a lotof recommendations.

Modern vehicles have alternators which have negative earth. If you go back to 60's and earlier you find vehicles with Dynamos, these had positive earth.

I agree with e comments above, DID, Regina, RK all good brands. My bike had a gold coloured chain when I got it, lookeed good untill a few monthsof salty roads and it looked terrible. Got non-coloured DID now. Quality of sprockets can vary, not sure what to recommend here, maybe someone else will comment.

I want to connect the battery. I've seen guys doing it the standard way - negative first, positive last. THEN, I've seen mechanics in bike shops connecting the positive first. It is safer to connect the positive first, if the spanner/screwdriver accidentally touches any metal work, there is no problem since the earth is not yet connected. When you connect the earth - if the spanner/screwdriver touches metal work - no problem its what its connected to anyway. You just have to be careful when working on the earth you don't touch the positive - make sure to put the red cover over the positive terminal.

Are you sure its the front tyre that is causing the problem? How much tread is left on the tyres? "white lining " tends to get worse as the tyres get more worn, but its usually the rear the is most affected.

I've got a GSX600F 2003, owned it for 7 years now, done nearly 30,000miles on it, been fairly reliable, apart from the usual tyres, chain and pads, its had new starter, rear shock, shock link, and a few other minor parts. I enjoy riding it, great for longer trips, fairing good at keeping rain and wind off, performance and handling good as well. I keep meaning to get something newer but haven't found anything I like yet. Hope you enjoy yours.

I fitted a basic non adjustable indicator warning bleeper on my Suzuki GSX600. It helps but is only audible upto about 30MPH. Repeater lights on the dash are only really visible when its dull or dark I had a 1978 Yamaha RD125 that had self cancelling indicators, worked off a switch on the speedo that switched them off after 1/10 mile. Do Yamahas still have this?

Merry Christmas everyone, and a happy new year.

Thats gongto make teh restorationa lot easier. Good find.

As above the carbs (top face of float bowl) should be horizontal. The carb rubbers should hold the carbs horizontal. You need to check the spacing between the carbs as well. Adjustment might be difficult.

Would GSX600 carbs fit? Should be planty of these available.

Seems you have to be quick with bike carbs these days. My local garage does a lot of jobs on Rally/motorcross tye competition cars. One of the popular mods is to fit motorbike carbs, appears it works well for more power and better throttle response.

I havea digital non-contact thermometer. Only cost £12 . ideal for jobs like this. Similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Non-contact-IR-Infrared-Temperature-Pyrometer-Industrial-Gun-Thermometer/373319346787?hash=item56eb912a63:g:3sAAAOSwlHRfo7q0

GSX600f should have a prime setting on the fuel tap marked "PRI" in this position the fuel will flow without vacuum. Try it on this setting, if it now runs OK, the problem is in the tap. Try commecting a fuel line to the tap and see of fuel flows freely, first in the prime position, then try in the "main" and "res" positions. You will need to attach a pipe to the vacuum and suck on it to make fuel flow. Are you sure you just didn't run low of fuel. From full my GSX600F can be onto reserve between 120-160 miles, reserve is about 5 litres.

If your speedo said 38mph, true speed 34mph then you should be OK, most Police Forces use the add 10% and 2mph = 35mph. I had a close call on the Denbigh road , over the crest of a hill, spotted the camera van, they were just closing the hatch to move on! Close call!

Same here, thought about taking the bike for a spin, down came the rain, so stayed in the garage making brackets for my trailer.

LEDs will draw less current, hence less voltage drop. Poviding you don't use "Canbus compliant" types, these have a load resistor so that they draw the same current as a normal bulb. The trouble with LEDS is over the legality. They are not "E" marked so technically not permitted to be used on the road.

Yes GSX600F "Teapot" although mine has the newer better styled rear light unlike the earlier ones that got the bike the teapot nickname. I was thinking of using the existing headlight connector to connect via short leads to activate the relay. Then use new wires for the battery via fuse and relay to new headlight connectors. I found a H4 bulb connector in the garage (bought it to repair a burnt out connector on a Landrover) the wires on that are much thicker than my Suzuki. I will measure the voltage drop tomorrow. The bulb I have (+150%) is still standard 55W.

If you find 2nd hand panels you could always ask the seller if he has the screws as well. Make sure you get panels for the same or newer year thn yours, earlier model panels are different ( Earlier YBRs don't have the extra plastic panels at the front of the tank. AS said above you needa chain guard as well, I think ti will fail an MOT without. Bar ends are optional, thye stop vibrations that make you fingers tingle.