Westbeef

Bang the reg into here to see it's MOT history, might not tell you much about it's current condition but you can see if it's got any advisories and what's been done over the years.

http://www.sportandcustoms.co.uk/

Find a good independent, main dealers really can be extortionate. They do exist, my fella is cheap and works to a high standard. Did my fork seals for £60, parts included in that . A full service last year was £130, all fitlers and fluids changed for that.

I couldn't comment on fault as i dont know the specific law but you should never filter down the inside as you described. If youre on the outside then you give yourself ths best chance of being seen. Apologies you probably already know that now. Hope the injuries aren't too bad and you can get back on the road soon as.

Is this how you apply it? Seems overly expensive and complicated when an aerosol is pretty effective.

Do you mind sticking me back on as 130 please, the server reset has chopped me off .

It's FI so doubt it's crap in your carb . Are all your connections good after you've swapped the alternator?

Round about lifesavers are a funny one. It depends on your position and where the danger can come from. That could be a person on your left as you look to exit, or a person on your right who might be trying to exit into you.

You can go round most corners pretty upright - trust me I know . If you're already upright you aren't going to start going straight if you need to touch the breaks, and if you're upright you won't be quick too quick that anything will take you by surprise

Why do people never leave quietly? Always have to make a big song and dance about it.

Sorry to hear this mate, I saw it going around on Facebook I had no idea it was your sisters stuff. I'll keep my eye out.

If you want to kill the driver, I'm all for it

Does it function as intended? Might get one for my desk at work if so

Pretty sure he said he was sparks the other week... I'll see if I can find the thing. Sorry you're right, it's down as his occupation. It must have been for an oil company or something, I'm sure the fozster will let me know when he's back

Quite late to the party, but if you need cheaper actual waterproof gear have a look at the triumph stuff. They use their own version of goretex and it works wonders, my jacket was £100 and has kept me bone dry 2 winters so far. If it gives up this year I still think it's a bargain! I got it on here, you just have to keep your eye out for things popping up, it seems they were flogging one for £50 recently with the same tech but it's sold out now. http://www.triumphfactoryoutlet.com/home

Well he is a sparky, what do you expect? I thought he was a chemical engineer

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, are you saying the oil is thicker when hot & at operating temp?

Oil is more viscous when cold, and less viscous when hot. That's less to do with design and just physics/fluid mechanics. I don't dispute that. but it depends doesn't it on what you mean by "hot". for an oil change we are not talking normal operating temperature. (which would pose a big scald risk) The oil (and engine/gear box) is just warm. you either have the engine running for a few minutes.. or wait half an hour after a ride out. And under those circumstances the oil does flow much better. if left alone it will drip for longer towards the end than if it was at ambient temperature. which is only useful if you want to get as much of the old oil out and get the job over quickly. But this isn't crucial for most people (including me) as no matter how you do the job there will always be a significant amount remaining. I reckon this is why most mechanics warm the engine up before doing the job. It just means the change can be done a little quicker. Important when time = money. But.. if you are doing this yourself.. then it hardly matters. especially if you are lazy (as I am) and often leave it to drip overnight. warm or cold? unimportant... there is no harm done doing it either way. its mainly (for me) just habit. There will always be a significant amount of old oil left behind unless you are fully disassembling the engine. In the case of my bike thats >20% of the total volume. So for my bike a full oil change is a bit misleading. its an 80% change. Even at 10 DegC 10W40 is 4 times thicker than it is at 40C, from there on the viscosity doesn't change drastically. So there's no point really doing it above that anyway

No, you're absolutely right - it's a private members club that sets its own rules, and standards must be maintained. I will just have to accept that in the eyes of the committee, turning up in jeans would rank me far below the more acceptably attired wife-beater and child-abuser, and that I would be a complete embarrassment to the father-in-law. It's a bit like Goebbels being excommunicated by the Catholic Church: they were pretty laid back about his involvement in the Final Solution, but as soon as he married a Protestant they kicked him out. Standards must be upheld! Sounds like a delightful chap! Seems like your issue isn't really with the dress code request, If he was a normal nice bloke there would be no reason at all to get upset with what he's asked.

He's offered you an invitation and asked you to respect his clubs rules, as all the members do. Bizzare reaction to what seems to be a decent offer and a more than reasonable request. He's offering you some lunch, in return he's asked you not to be a complete embarassment to him.

I can get a hold of one. My usual one is in my caravan in storage for the winter. What test should I be doing? There's a few ways to test the reg/rec to give you an idea of what's going on. You can test the charge rate which you've already done, it needs to be done on a battery fully charged then - Idle rpm should see 13V+ and then holding at 3000RPM should increase to 14Vish and no more than 15V. To test for diode faults; "> Then the stator; ">

I think his is a 2003, which should have a mofset from factory. Mine did anyway, however that did also give out this year .

It's more than likely a buggered battery, the voltage shouldn't drop so much that quickly. If you get a new battery and it's still giving you issues then I'd look at the Reg/Rec before the stator. You can check both a R/R and stators health on the connection pins for each of those components quite easily with a multimeter. I can find you a couple of videos if you wanted to check to reassure yourself. A quick check for the R/R is obviously the charging rate when you have it running with a known healthy battery.

and that's quite generous, 50k for 40 years is not likely for a large amount of the population and most wont ever see 50k/year!

Yeah 48Nm is f**k loads . Do as Stu says.