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Westbeef

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Everything posted by Westbeef

  1. Already on it been going a few hours. Interesting development, the R/R I took off is a Shendengen mofset . No idea how long it’s been on though. Could be 30000 miles for all I know.
  2. I haven’t physically checked the stator but it tested fine on the multimeter. I’ve ordered a mofset from wemoto, an electrex one , Dave Silver didn’t have any . Got the old R/R off and all ready for a new one to go on. I shall update when I’ve got it on .
  3. Looking forward to seeing you guys again, just need to drag [mention]Hoggs[/mention] and Charlie along now . Might be in the car if I can’t fix the bike but I’m not missing it. I’ve had my fancy dress planned for a while so I’m doing it, even if no one else is.
  4. Another update - tested just now as I got it home. It was playing up anyway the clocks were going off and it was really rough. I was getting 7 V and revving didn't increase them. So that's the R/R then, could it have done anything to my stator?
  5. Didn't touch it after it died last night. Started first-time this morning but a slightly laboured start. Rode it 13 miles to work, mostly at motorway speeds. Got to work and tried to turn it off and on again, very dead indeed. Pushed the button and nothing at all. shame I didn't have a multimeter to check it at work.
  6. I did test it last time when it was hot with the new battery and it was working. Maybe it's intermittent and just slowly dying, I'd rather it bloody went the other way and over charged so I knew what it was. Slightly annoying as everytime I've tested it, its been fine (even had it off the bike and checked the diodes) and £100ish is a lot for a punt.
  7. You don’t need to re do your CBT, that’s the only point of doing the A1, and motorways. You can take a bigger bike out with an instructor, it’s the only way .
  8. It was a joke, but if the parts are cheap then it also wouldn’t do any harm.
  9. A few months ago the bike died after being stuck at high temp on a hot day. I stalled outside my house and it wouldn’t start again, the bike would then start again when cold. Eventually it wouldn’t start at all as the battery went flat after a few of these cycles, I could get off after a long run and it was dead on the button. I checked the charging voltages and it was all good. I even stripped off the R/R and it passed a diode test. Bike ran fine after fully charging the battery for a small time then would die again. So I stuck a new battery in and it’s ran fine for 1500+ miles, until it started doing the same crap today. It’s been spot on, no issues at all through all the hot weather and even survived a week on the IOM. Could this be my R/R with an intermittent fault as it slowly dies? (Honda are known for bad R/R I’m led to believe?) or should I be looking elsewhere? Is mofset the way to go if I’m gonna swap it out, or are there better options?
  10. And if I was to do it myself, who would I be giving money away to?
  11. At least if I replace everything I can have peace of mind .
  12. Waste of time and money! It will rattle again seconds later If I ever got that far I’d probably throw a new clutch in and do the springs Mega mentioned anyway .
  13. Is that needle bearing in the middle of the basket the one that can cause some rattles Occasionally? Is it easy to replace if required?
  14. I'm still here so that's the main thing, right?
  15. See the problem here is you're going north, we all know this is the wrong direction to travel. South mate, Telford is south of Manchester .
  16. From a population of just 4.2million people they were able to find a bunch of blokes better at football than England could find from over 65million... That's a defeat on an epic scale. IF we're going by that logic then China must be having epic defeats on a regular basis
  17. Westbeef

    Clutch

    Hydraulic clutch isn't it? Might be due a fluid change, but I'd try the adjustment procedure first
  18. No need to do loads of trackdays. I know lads who have only ever done 1 trackday and they run with the front pack. That's what I was unsure of, I didn't know if you needed track experience before doing the race licence . That must have just been how he went for it.
  19. I didn't expect things to get this saucy, please - do tell us in great detail
  20. I think a few only ride on the track, especially when they get the bug for it. However with more road experience (riding specificaly) you'll get into less close calls and be able to read situations better.
  21. My mate did track days for a long time before he got into a racing league, I may be corrected but I think you need some good experience (quite a few track days) before you can get a race licence. Then you can start the proper racing, rather than doing track days . That's the route he took anyway, he got into the advanced group before he joined a racing league, now he's piling all his money into keeping his bike race ready . There's probably faster ways to do it, but I guess there's no rush if you're a new rider .
  22. Mrs Beefy is starting a very similar job soon. Awaiting her final reference, she’s caring for one girl who requires 24 hour care and is joining a team. It sounds like a great rewarding job, where she’s going to be this girls friend rather just than her carer.
  23. Terrible news. Wasn’t it his wife who just had a baby under troubling circumstances which made him miss the TT? gutted.
  24. My dad had two lurchers when I was a kid, top dogs . Mental though
  25. If it's the 30k one don't bother, I've had 3 CBR600's, a 2001, 2003 and 2006, and did the check around that mileage and all of them were not a nats whisker out of spec! It's also not a hard DIY job, you just need the fairings off, drop the radiator, and you can get at the head from there. I’m doing it for peace of mind up to nearly 40k now. Will keep its value up if I go to resell. He’s swapping the CCT whilst he’s there too as it’s a bit tappy now.
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