fastbob

Lots of bits.

Don't forget to put Holy Water in the radiator !

We'll I cant find it . It would be helpful if the OP would respond by giving us a clue . Is it something they have seen on a motorbike ? Is it a random vehicle part they have found or seen ? Or is this just an image off the internet ? Anyone got any logo recognition software ?

Does it actually need a hone? If there aren't any ridges or what have you then just a little tickle with the stones to "break the glaze" should do. Yeah, that's exactly what I meant , just enough to put the cross hatching back .

Just watched a few YouTube videos and now I'm going to buy a set of stones and hone it myself using a drill. I freed the stuck ring and the piston seems ok .

I presume its on a motorbike, which one please ?

Yeah, I'm going to stick it in the ER5 and then sell the older engine. I've already got a buyer who wants it for a GPZ 500 , well bits of it anyway. All is not quite well, I've just found a broken ring and a gummed up ring on one piston so perhaps this was the reason the donor bike came to be broken. Maybe it was a smoker or then again maybe nobody noticed anything wrong. No worries I'll get some new rings and turn it over to a local engine shop for a hone . If they reckon anything is beyond refurbishment there are loads of ER5 barrels and pistons on eBay that can be worked on . Leg alright ?

Ok. I bit the bullet and pulled the head and barrels off . Not too bad , a bit of carbon , no scoring just a very shiny set of bores , no broken rings , no detectable play in the big ends and no internal rust . Happy days ! A light hone and new rings and away we go , a perfectly sound engine for £50 . EDIT : I must have not been looking too hard when I originally wrote this . There was a broken ring and there was also a stuck top ring . The second rings were hammered into a T section shape which suggests that these were of a low standard and not genuine Kawasaki parts. So perhaps this engine was a smoker and down on power. Anyway I've now got new genuine rings in freshly honed bores so I have every expectation that this engine will be a good runner.

What logo ?

Here's another one

Probably cheap because you only pay for half a frame. Looks like a collection of Chinese bits " Remanufactured " in a European country to give it some credibility . Looking closely I notice that its an air cooled four stroke with a fake plastic radiator grill to make it look like a water cooled two stroke .

Well hang on , ABS utilises a series of rapid pulses to move the pistons in and out many times per second . If the pistons are being gripped too tightly because dirt and mineralisation has built up behind the seals then surely they won't be able to function as they were designed to do . I would assume that any warning light built into such a system is there to warn you that it isn't working properly. All I'm saying is that it wouldn't be a bad idea to make sure that the callipers are working efficiently so that you can rule stuck pistons out as a possible cause . For years I thought that removing my callipers , pumping the pistons out a bit and cleaning away any visible dirt was all I needed to do . Then , acting on good advice from this forum , I performed a total strip down ( which takes ages when you have twelve pistons ) and the difference was like night and day. The result was staggering, sharp and efficient finger tip braking with greatly reduced lever travel had returned to my bike . Just trying to help . I notice that you commute through the winter on this bike by the way ....

Fine , but any grime that is visible is not going to affect the operation of the calliper. It is the hidden grime underneath the seals in their grooves that will make a calliper perform badly.

Just doing a bit more smartening up . Why the red filler cap ? Nostalgia, my first ever bike , a CB 175 , had one . It also had a red starter motor so I might paint that as well.

We'll I don't know anything about ABS or warning lights but I do know that servicing callipers requires more than simply lubricating the pistons and pushing them back in again. I find that removing the pistons and the seals and then thoroughly cleaning out all dirt and mineralisation from the grooves followed by careful reassembly using only brake fluid as a lubricant will produce a massive improvement in performance. We'll worth the extra effort. Out of interest, what exactly is this light designed to be warning you about ?

I actually worked with someone who thought that Oliver's Army was I Love a Zombie. He was from Birmingham.

Quite so , there is a refurbishment kit available.https://m.ebay.com/itm/Honda-V65-V45-V30-VF1000-CBR1000F-More-Water-Pump-Overhaul-Parts-Kit-like-OEM-/121856998180?_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1

Check out the full description on this one which suggests that it won't fit a 95 BUT at that money it would be worth getting it anyway to see if you can build a good one from two pumps . https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/z1-Honda-CBR-1000-F-SC21-Water-Pump-Motor-Water-Pump-Engine-Cooling-Pump/132415421168?hash=item1ed492faf0:g:~mUAAOSwCmRa3vSM

I presume that you are frustrated because despite your extensive research you are still unsure . I've had a look at the diagrams for an 89 and a 95 and I can see many similarities but some differences as well . If your 95 pump is knackered what makes you think that a 90 one won't be on its way out too ? See what you think .

Hi , glad that you fixed the indicator issue and glad that you let us know how you got on . Regarding the battery, was it given a charge prior to fitting ? I understand that you can't buy batteries that you have to put the acid in yourself anymore so I wonder how long the battery was sitting on a shelf before you got it . One thing you could do before you spend too much money is get a multi metre for £13 from Wilko's and test the battery, charging output , and the rec/ reg. You will need a manual to do the latter so try looking for a free PDF online first . Good luck.

Does anybody understand this ^ Yeah he ticks the box on first sign on and it keeps him signed in! and their call centre is in the Philippines it wasn't that hard And that's exactly what it fails to do . They have now admitted that this is a known problem with Edge.

Brilliant !

Yeah, that's exactly what I have done on a few bits on my ER5 and it works pretty well. There's no reason why you can't mirror polish steel except for the fact that it rusts straight away. The addition of lacquer gives a sort of pewter like effect which doesn't look too bad . I don't know which lacquer would work best on an engine, some of them go yellow quickly and this produces a gold effect . I use Tool station clear lacquer. It works really well on brushed aluminium surfaces like fork legs or foot peg hangers .

No. Here's a thought though, what if they happened to be the same as those used on another make of bike I.e Kawasaki or Suzuki ? Maybe they would be cheaper if they weren't specifically sold for a triumph.

OK, SO HAVE YOU FOUND IT YET ?