fastbob

Mike , that's what they were telling me but I actually don't know what this means . Bear in mind my only device is my windows phone.

No , I can't get the app any more , not available on Windows .

Hi , please explain further. Bear in mind I have a windows phone as my only device. Is native an expression or is it the title of an app?

I'm at my wits end here . I have an eBay account and until recently I just clicked the tile on my windows phone and I was in . But now I have to sign in EVERY time I want to view it . I've been on eBay chat since 8:30 this morning and despite following all their shit instructions I got nowhere. On the second occasion I waited patiently while they typed and then when I attempted to reply they timed me out and said have a good day . Does anyone have a clue what to do ? Is it worth trying to phone them . They did get as far as telling me that this happens to users of Microsoft Edge and internet explorer but because I took too long to reply they ended the chat , didn't even say "we haven't heard from you etc. " suggestions please. I'm not being xenophobic but do they have a British call centre?

https://en.m.wikiquote.org/wiki/Skyfall

On the run out.Sorry Stu, didn't fit yours in .

maybe the corrosion would come off with a gentle polish using fine wire wool . After that you could use some high temp engine lacquer but I have always found that lacquer makes polished objects go dull .

I'd get a few quotes from some platers first , you could be pleasantly surprised. I haven't looked too hard but the only stainless replacements I have seen so far are £10 a pop . I wouldn't think a plater would charge £100 for a handful of bolts . https://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/triumph-cam-cover-bolt-stainless-steel--seal-oem-t3330241--sold-individually-45533-p.asp

You certainly can but I suspect that our friend has seen the price of them hence the request for refinishing solutions. https://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/triumph-cam-cover-bolt-stainless-steel--seal-oem-t3330241--sold-individually-45533-p.asp

Maybe they are some kind of self tapping trim screws with a very course pitch . Try the bits and bobs section in Halfords. To be honest, I can't really see why you are struggling, surely you can see what screw is required by looking at the hole it goes into. It's going to be an M5 or M6 , I cant imagine the manufacturer using an M8 or above for something like a battery box. Alternatively, as previously suggested, just stick some nuts on the back and job done . An excellent source of nuts , bolts and washers is Tool Station.

Cheers for that , no gunge / dust / grease / debris in this engine , that was all on the outside, inside is mint . The tensioner may well have been set ok before I removed and inspected it . When I replaced it and then inserted the spring and rod it probably just needed that little extra nudge . Anyway the camshafts rotate smoothly now but I was just a little concerned that I had to force it a bit .

Have you lifted out each diaphragm and slide and made sure that all the needles are ok ? Have you carefully inspected all the diaphragms for holes and rips ? What about the springs ? Are they properly seated and not kinked ? And finally have you cleared out any fine sludge that has accumulated around the slides ? I'm asking all these questions because this sounds to me like the time one of my carb needles snapped in two . The bike ran great once I got the revs up but ran like shit every time I slowed and then tried to speed up again . Not good when your 300 miles from home. I feel that if it is a fuel problem it might be in the tops of the carbs somewhere. Good luck . PS what about the little rubber caps that go on the nozzles that you use to balance the carbs , one of those hasn't fallen off has it ?

yeah, exactly, but how DO you check the tension is correct ? The tensioner was stripped and cleaned , the spring alone doesn't seem strong enough to give those extra two clicks .

Hello , I currently playing around with a spare engine that I got cheap for my ER5. So far all my inspections have been very encouraging. I've got a good working gear box , good primary chain and everything seems clean and in good order. Today I had a look at the top end . When I turned the engine over I noticed that the cam chain went quite slack when one or the other piston was at TDC . I did a measurement of 20 links and they were just within service limits for stretch ( wear ) So I decided to " Help " the cam chain tensioner by taking out the spring and giving it a poke with a screwdriver. I pushed quite hard and got two more clicks out of it . Result , now the cam chain is uniformly free of slack when I rotate the engine . My question then , is does anyone think that this is merely masking the problem or more seriously inviting trouble further down the line ? I notice that there are a lot of manual tensioners on the market but I've always wondered how users know just how much pressure they can apply with these before the cam chain starts acting like a chain saw and it all ends in tears . Views welcome.

Where do these screws in your pile come from ? I would have thought that M6 would be the most likely choice.

Was this bike in daily use or was it in a scrapyard ?

Same here , sorry, just checking. You get all sorts on here

What was that on Bob? My zx6r is a pain in the testicles - side panels off, seat off, petrol tank off (propped up at a minimum), frame brace off and then finally the battery is accessible. It's probably best part of 1/2 hour all in and there's an awful lot of plastic clips and semi-rigid fuel pipe to knacker in the process - not to mention dropping the tank. No chance I'd offer it as a free service. FYI - when I ran Halfords stores (prob about 5 years worth) the battery fitting "course" was half a morning of some bloke showing how it is done in a car park (on an easy car too). Now, I ran a few stores and in each one I had to foot hefty repair bills when one of the "qualified fitters" guffed it up by: not using a memory saver on a rover (ecu recode), failing to secure the battery clamp or terminals (smashy-smashy, sparky-sparky), or the trusted favorite - putting it on the wrong way round. In a garage you pay for their expertise, in Halfords you pay for the insurance against a f**k up. What bikes ? No idea it was years ago . Your bike sounds well complicated. On my GSXR its just seat off , undo terminals , remove the rubber strap and lift out . I don't remember any being difficult. I used to fit screens , engine bars , huggers , grips , anything easy . Better than trying to sell Arai helmets to people who start with " what's your cheapest helmet " or knob heads trying to get refunds on Sidi boots that squeak . A favourite dinner money earner was to quickly run ally and stainless parts over the polishing wheels for a bright finish . I don't think people realise how easy it is to polish stainless steel to a lasting chrome like shine .

I'd be looking at the pilot jets and the pilot air screw settings and while I was at it check the float heights and if you have carb drain nozzles , the actual fuel level in the carbs . I don't quite get why you are having to slip the clutch to pull away . How long have you been riding big capacity bikes may I ask ? You are in first gear I presume . Only asking because it sounds like you are trying to pull away in 3rd or 4th .

Yeah, good question, why change them ? They don't wear out . Only emulsion tubes , needles and slides wear out . What exactly do you mean by won't pull away ? Do you mean it doesn't accelerate how you would like it to or does it just falter and stall under load .

I would like to think any reputable/decent garage would stick a battery on for free if you'd bought it from them though. £60 is properly taking the piss. When I worked in a bike shop I would fit batteries for free just for something to do . Occasionally I would get a tip which meant a free lunch

Ok so having spent most of Saturday attending the rally I've been making up for lost time today . I've done everything necessary before splitting the crankcase right down to the last few bolts . But before I took the plunge I decided to have another play around with the gearbox . Now that I have got the starter motor chain off and all the clutch plates out I can spin the gearbox more freely . And lo and behold it it now goes up and down through the f*****g gears ! Not only that I can actually see it happening ! So my original assumption that the seller had mistakenly determined that the gear box was knackered may yet prove to be correct after all ! Happy days I'm going to sit and look at it for a while but I'm fairly sure that I'm about to bolt it all up again , flip it over and concentrate on the top end instead .

I've put some pictures in my latest update .

No nor do I actually. Maybe they just meant a wide tappet clearance but didn't want to baffle the customer with technical jargon . Or maybe it was wobbling around in the valve guide. Tappets was my guess too, or maybe some sort of exhaust/power valve? Im not familiar with the bike so no idea really but it's more likely a 4t with tappets than a 2t with a power valve! It's another CG clone so luckily it didn't go bang . One thing you really don't want on a pushrod operated engine is a loose tappet . Very loose and a rod could fall out of the cup in the rocker arm . I reckon the whole rocker assembly might have come loose , could happen. Here's one from my junk repository .

No nor do I actually. Maybe they just meant a wide tappet clearance but didn't want to baffle the customer with technical jargon . Or maybe it was wobbling around in the valve guide.