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Everything posted by Colin the Bear
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Got me http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-laughing024.gif
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Sounds a bit like pre ignition or pinking. Never heard of it on tick over before tho. Usually happens when engine is labouring. It is a triumph so whatever it is will fall off soon.
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Recommended Winter Baselayers Pls
Colin the Bear replied to a topic in Clothing, Luggage, Accessories and Security
Oh yes just remembered. Ladies tights. Don't fall of tho, the ambulance crew will smirk -
Your shopping list is...manual, toolkit, body building kit, steroids.
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Recommended Winter Baselayers Pls
Colin the Bear replied to a topic in Clothing, Luggage, Accessories and Security
Winter leathers, summer leathers. Winter leathers 1 size bigger to make room for a jumper. Or Stick a bigger jacket over the top -
To go quickly, doing what we love, in the heat of the chase. What more can a man ask. A little longer at the game perhaps. RIP
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The foot lever slides onto splines and the retaining bolt fits in a groove in the pivot on mine. I would suspect if yours is the same the pivot is loose and no amount of tightening the lever to a loose pivot wil tighten the pivot.
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Pot ,kettle, kettle ,pot, let he who is without sin , cast the first stone, at the glass house, which may break his bones, innit? You get me? Paddy says to Mick " Can you help me with this jigsaw? It's supposed to be a tiger." Mick says " Put the Frosties back in the box and stop messing about" Bought a new deodorant today. The instructions said "remove top and push up bottom" My armpits still smell but my farts are lovely
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Two spanners needed. Sounds like your axle is a long bolt with a nut on the end. Hold one end with the right sized spanner. A ring spanner is best if you dont have a socket. Whilst holding the bolt end unscrew the nut with another correct sized spanner or socket. Some axles have a pin through so the nut can't work loose and drop off, others use a locknut, an extra nut on the end. I wouldn't use your torque wrench for general tightening. It's a precision instrument , not a work horse. Tapping, emphasise tapping, the nut end spanner with a mallet will help to undo the nut. Don't let it slip and round the nut. You know what to ask Father Christmas for this year, socket set etc
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Easy to find out, just disassemble and ispect. Warning, you may need a torque wrench to put it back together.
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I'm a great believer in the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it." If the lever isn't spongey and you have no fluid leaks, seals and hoses aren't the problem. The solution to getting more stopping power lies elswhere.
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WD40 is not a penetrating oil. It has many uses, losening seized nuts, bolts and studs is not one of them. Use a dedicated penetrating oil.
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On the same subject I have an electric kettle that smokes every time it boils. This is very worrying as I drink a lot of tea and can't find a kettle forum, any help would be appreciated
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If you're not losing fluid , then the seals are fine. If the lever is firm then there's no air in the system. Check the general condition of everything. The discs may be worn , warped or scored. The pads may be contminated. The calipers may be sticking The brakes on the later bike may just be better because they were upgraded, better calipers with more pots, larger surface area pads, bigger discs. Check the spec to make sure you're not trying to get more out of yours than they are capable of giving. Braided hoses will give a firmer feel due to not expanding under pressure.
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Been spannering stuff for more than half a century, started with meccano. Used a torque wrench once to tighten down the cylinder head on an old reliant. If you use the right sized spanner and sensible force you won't strip threads or crack/split alloy casings. If you think it may vibrate or work loose swinging on the wrench isn't the answer. There are lots of solutions for this without taking steroids. The sump nut has a copper or similar washer that squashes to make a seal. Replace the washer every time and tighten it sensibly and there won't be a problem.
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Check battery terminals are tight and also earth strap , battery to frame.
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A few mod2 questions
Colin the Bear replied to mealexme's topic in CBT, Test and Advanced Training Information
duel carriageway very apt , ninjas at dawn -
Back protector - yay or nay
Colin the Bear replied to Silverspring's topic in Clothing, Luggage, Accessories and Security
The most important safety device on the bike is the nut holding the handlebars. No amount of padding and safety kit will make you invulnerable. Riding a bike is like making sandwiches, use your loaf -
An unusual fogging problem
Colin the Bear replied to OhJay's topic in Clothing, Luggage, Accessories and Security
Breath in through the nose and out through the mouth. Purse lips and direct breath down and out of the helmet -
The battery won't fry anything. The battery is 12v dc and the components are designed to use 12v dc. The alternator can kick out up to 400v ac. Which the battery can't handle over a prolonged period.http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/food-smiley-013.gif
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When turning by means of the engine, the alternator generates alternating current (ac). The reg/rec rectifies this ac to direct current (dc) and regulates it to a suitable voltage for the bike's electrics, including the battery, to use. The battery is a handy store of this energy to utilise when the generator is not running. Using any of the electrical equipment on the bike with the engine not runing is similar to using any battery powered appliance.eg radio, torch, mobile phone. The battery will go flat over a period of time and need recharging is all that will happen.
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Most probably steering head bearings but could also be wheel bearings, broken frame, or something loose