Mississippi Bullfrog

An immobiliser won't draw power. It's a passive system that checks the key is in the ignition. On most bikes even the flashing LED goes off after a short time.

Adds a whole new dimension to "pulling the chain".

I should be mowing the lawns but since the mower is behind both bikes which are in bits I am deprived the joy of doing the grass.

On the other hand when I suggest that their main function is to provide extra ballast when rounding the windward mark in strong winds they tend to get a bit uppity.

Depends on the battery's capacity and where it is being stored. My leisure batteries stored at a steady room temperature last much better than my motorcycle batteries kept in a cold garage.

I suspect the issue is that manufacturers and workshops are making and fitting non-legal exhausts knowing full well that 99% of them are going to be used on the public roads. So the legislation is being tightened to make them more responsible for the products they manufacture and install. Adding a disclaimer on their sales website hasn't proved to work for years.

I found this on another forum. Useful information about the kinds of batteries we use in bikes and how to maintain them for longer life. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-706-summary-of-dos-and-donts

As I think I've said elsewhere, I've used Bonda primer and Ronseal NoRust on that kind of rust with very good results. I'd go with paint in a tin rather than a rattle can as unless you're dismantling everything getting at the back of the tubing with a spray is difficult to ensure good coverage. Both are cellulose based so you'd need some thinners.

Check also that the sensor is mounted correctly. On my Bobber there is a washer that you can't see when removing the sensor as it sits behind the sensor to give the correct gap to the ring. It fell out first time I removed the front wheel and it took me a whole to figure out where it came from. Check the ring is clean and sensor connections are secure.

Bad news I'm afraid. I am currently wearing a hoodie so the are definitely not cool anymore. Not on a bike though.

The replacement spacers have arrived from TEC....with rather a lot of stickers!

They work very well. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder level. On some systems you can get brake fluid splashing out of the open mc when pumping the lever so if yours does that cover the open mc with a cloth before pumping. If you use a jam jar you can always chuck some old nuts in the bottom to weigh it down. You'll be throwing that fluid away anyway. A tip for brake fluid. Always use a new unopened bottle of fluid. Remove the cap but don't remove the foil seal. You want to punch two small holes in the seal opposite each other. One allows the fluid to pour out in a controlled flow. The other allows air into the bottle. It makes pouring the fluid much simpler.

I used to restore rusty old cars and there's no rust converter that stops rust completely. I used a variety of treatments that slowed it down but once it's in the metal you won't kill it dead. The most important thing is to remove as much corrosion as possible and get back to clean metal. Then use a really good primer. Then a really good finishing coat. That makes more difference than any rust converter. Rustoleum stuff is pretty good. My favourite anti rust primer is Bonda, it says it has a high zinc content. I've used it on very rusty bodyshells and it lasts longer than anything else I've found. Forget Hammerite paints. Useless over metal with any trace of corrosion. Ronseal NoRust is actually a very good top coat for previously rusty metal.

Those are fairly common. There's usually a metal sleeve runs through the middle. Sometimes the sleeve is welded to a washer so the whole thing looks a bit like a top hat. They use a very similar bush and sleeve on the radiator mounts of my CBF.

I can answer that question. Two of them rolled up this morning just as we were serving bacon butties and pastries for breakfast. They ate the bacon butties, and the pastries, then drank a cup of coffee each. And then went for a wee.

And thereon lies part of the issue. Since the police can't / won't tackle wannabe Lewis Hamiltons in their Ford Fiestas the politicians shove the problem back up the chain to make all modifications illegal. It's a lazy / cheap way to tackle the obnoxious minority at the expense of the underrepresented majority of enthusiasts.

Since both of mine are in bits and waiting for parts I went to the pub

Something I spotted via the Bobber forum, several companies making aftermarket exhausts have currently withdrawn them from sale. When customers who have ordered systems have asked where their new exhaust is they get an email saying that from now on anyone buying an exhaust system that is either louder than the oem or involves a decat will need to sign a declaration that the bike is for track or off road use only. The reason given is that new legislation is making anyone who sells or installs a none compliant exhaust liable to prosecution.

I've got a textile jacket and a pair of gloves. Budget end of the market but so long as you don't expect it to be waterproof it is fine for riding. The gloves are actually some of the best fitting, but that's just because they suit my hands. I find gloves that fit well very hard to find.

You mean sat at the oars surrounded by sweaty men in leather loin cloths whilst being whipped by another sweaty man. Oh well, whatever floats your boat.

I snaffle the kitchen table for brake parts.

I use red rubber grease on new seals but brake fluid is fine if you don't gave any. They're straightforward just work in a clean place. You don't want any grit getting in there. Worth remembering that brake fluid is inflammable.

Yeah, but mine started dribbling this morning.

It 18 years old and the fan housing is getting the full blast of salt and grit all winter so to be fair I'm quite impressed everything came apart. The rest of the bike is virtually rust free. A bit of surface rust on the swing arm but nothing serious. A bit of rubbing down and a coat of rust treatment and the fan housing is structurally solid. That's pretty good for thin metal in a harsh environment.

Oh the joys of elderly motorcycles. I suspect none of these bolts have been touched since the bike was built as they live behind the radiator. But so far everything has come undone with a bit of care.