husoi

Yeah, only gets better with plenty of cod liver oil capsules and smoe devil's claw Not to mention Iberian holidays, but NHS doesn't pay for those. Can I class myself as old being 35 tomorrow? Of course you can kid you're only as old as you feel

Happens to all us oldies Yeah, only gets better with plenty of cod liver oil capsules and smoe devil's claw Not to mention Iberian holidays, but NHS doesn't pay for those.

I just need to play attention to my joints to know it's coming.

LED's with warm white instead of common ice white. Change then bulbs back to halogen for MOT and put LED back once you have the pass. Having said that, LED's are no longer illegal and the MOT station can't tell if the LED wasn't fitted by one of the manufacturer's garage as part of an upgrade so they can't fail the MOT as long the beams are aligned properly. The issue with cheap LED bulbs is that they are not complying with CE/EU rules nor BS standards and you will see them not having a flat beam rising slightly to the left or being perfectly flat. As long they comply with BS and EU norms you will be fine. As reference, LED called ice white will be the ones with Kelvin of 5,000k and above. The ones you want will be with 3,500 to 4,000K which are of a warmer colour. https://richbrilliantwilling.com/blogs/light-reading/7988231-understanding-color-temperature-of-led-lighting

Why on Earth did I open your link [mention]fifthwheel[/mention] ??? Now I want this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/classic-motorcycles/264817974659?hash=item3da8619d83:g:Jb4AAOSwaEVfGdGc Would be ideal for commuting or those wee short trips

Wouldn't that mean the fuel vent hose is blocked?

I won't brag about finishing in 20 min and 100% rate Then had to sit there waiting for everyone else. But I won't brag about it...

Well done you

It sounds like a bucket of trouble that one. The power loss could be due to a dirty carburetor. It seems that isn't only an engine problem but you could be having issues with clutch/gearbox. Brakes issues it should be solved by a complete overhaul of the system. if you try to solve just one side of it means that you will have no idea what is on the rest. 125 brake system is simple enough for you to only need a couple hours emptying it, cleaning and reassemble. Use brand new brake fluid as recommended and you should be problem free. Play attention to seals in pistons and any rust that would have formed inside the calipers. Last time I changed the brake fluid on my ST1300 only took me 1 day but my system is far more complicated and I not only replaced the fluid but also wash the whole system with methylated alcohol, took apart all 3 calipers, front and rear pumps, intermediate pump and CBS system. Don't cut corners because they will come and bite you

Best is to play a visit to Honda dealer and ask, then go to the sub brands like yamaha and suzuki Maybe you need something nearer the ground instead of lighter. Most bikes over 500cc will be close to or over 200kg. A lower bike will be easier to hold. https://www.honda.co.uk/content/dam/local/uk/brochures/motorcycles/20YMBrochures/HUKMC2020RangeBrochureStreetTouring.pdf

The good thing about the present system is that you can change provider every month if there is anything you don't like.

That company you mention exists yes. I just don't understand what is the problem of spending 30min in the evening checking for new deals. comparison sites like uswitch or moneysupermarket do that for you already. Energy companies are like insurance ones. good until you need something different. Some times you only need a call to your own provider saying that you found a cheaper deal for them to match it. The big six, but not only them, take advantage of people's laziness or ignorance. If you don't complain then you're happy and they will keep ripping you off.

I was with Green flow for 1 year, then I moved to Pure Planet for 6 months. Currently with Outfox the Market. Because I have an electric car I need to be on top of it I even made a wee spreadsheet that compares different tariffs and standing charges and gives a prediction based on real usage from last 12 months. You should also look into eco7 supply if you can shift your usage to night hours.

Well. After an accident where the box had to be welded in 8 different places I finally managed to complete the welding and sanding of the trailer box. Next stage was preparing the moulds for the fibre tape that will close the gaps. (Done) Cutting the tape to size and have everything ready for starting the process. Will have to apply a PVA release agent so the white mould will come off then is to the final stage with the full body carbon fibre.

Had a couple hours to kill... Wood recycled, Top glass recovered Screws recovered SS fittings and cable, new The cables will keep it steady and allow to level the top. Garden table

Hi [mention]Ian Frog[/mention] I would need the size of the seat and ideally a pic so I know which size I would have to order.

Yeah, but look at their president...

There is a easy way to prevent insects to hit your face. open your mouth... Saves you on meals

If you go radical from softer to harder you won't be able to tell where is the middle point. Test it like that (harder) then do a run on same road 1 notch lower Repeat until you find it too soft for your liking. Turn it back the other way 1 notch and give another run. keep going until you get to where you want it. It will be a trial and error process similar to racing tuning. Don't forget to take plenty notes and check what speed variation you will have. Parameters that should be strict: Speed Acceleration approach to bends (if any) Note the weather changes as it will have influence on tyres and do the runs on same road conditions wet/dry

If your wheel is touching the arch then you need to increase the strength in the spring, that is done with the "C" wrench.

Those idiots who say they would ride without one probably don't have a brain that needs protecting.

You would have to make sure anything you don't want sprayed is properly masked. Your problem will be spraying at awkward angles to reach the hard spots. Taking the engine out is always the best option and it will allow you to check if the frame doesn't need some treatment too. Taking the engine out doesn't mean you will be changing any of the settings or mod the tuning. It should come out as a whole.

You should be able to have a good feel of how stiffer the dampening gets by just sitting on the bike and jump on it (just lifting your legs not actually jumping). With a few short trips and adjusting between them you can have a proper adjustment. Dampening is also a personal thing, some riders prefer a harder suspension so unless you know exactly the pressure of the spring and what the dampening will adjust by, the alternative is try and take notes for what you prefer.

Keep in mind that each MOT station apply different criteria so you will never know what they will come up with. Had a couple stations saying I would need brake disk, other that the pads were near the limit. That was all just to get you to spend money with them. The pads at that time were 2 month old so I was sure it didn't need it. An idiot even told me that I would fail MOT if I didn't install clamps on the exhausts. Better to find somewhere you can trust. Before going to MOT is always a good idea to have the basics checked so you don't have a fail.