Fiddlesticks

Nice

Hi, Welcome in, you'll be sure to find some helpful folk here.

This can be arranged...

I'm thinking about investing in a fork oil level tool. K-Tech Fork Oil Level & Air Gap Tool - £93.30 Ebay Special Fork Oil Level Tool 60ml Fork Oil Tool Kit Fork Oil Tool Gauge Fork Oil Syringe £9.11 Buy cheap, buy twice? Anyone have any recommendations?

Happy birthday

Mrs. Fiddlesticks agrees. I'm easy either way. Hotels it is, then.

Och! we're away for Easter. Let us know how it goes, and if there is a justgiving/givesendgo or similar?

To err is human. To Arr is pirate.

Hi, good to have you here

If you do go with the replacement option, a bearing press may be required...

Another option Maxton NR4 (£?) or rebuild/refurbish the existing one. (£?)

Mine did the same - it didn't last too long after that. Options I found for replacement: £833 - Original Part T2058500 £562 - YSS Mz456-375Hr-13 £575 / £391 Hagon M66022H (with or without remote preload adjuster). £390 - Shock Factory M-Shock from bikerevival. £628 - YSS MX456 £566 - Wilbers 640 No longer available - Nitron R1 €700/€475 - Hyperpro (with/without remote adjuster) Went with the Shock Factory. It's fully adjustable, but has a spanner (supplied), rather than a remote adjuster. They asked our combined weight and type of riding, but it seemed quite soft when I got it on the bike, so tightened it up with the C Spanner a fair bit. Has been fine for 16,200 miles.

Great bikes

Never get less than twelve hours sleep; never play cards with a guy who has the same first name as a city; and never get involved with a woman with a tattoo of a dagger on her body. Now you stick to that, and everything else is cream cheese.

Happy birthday

In the same position. In my case getting either one of the other two bikes out of the garage is a big double shuffle. Plus insurance, tax, mot, etc. I think two is optimal.

Ran the petrol down till the trip computer said zero miles left and bravely left it to the garage to do the clearances, air filter and plugs. I've removed the tank and done the air filter before, but taking the top off the engine and replacing shims might be one Haynes Manual spanner beyond my comfort zone. Maybe next time...

That's a shame. They weren't the cheapest, but very nice looking things. If I was looking for a 125, a Mutt would be on the shortlist.

I wouldn't have believed it. Summer gear and 17.5 degrees on Sunday. Today I was caught in a hail storm and had a five mile long tetchy argument with gravity. I just about kept the shiny side up, but the little ice marbles are not to be trifled with.

Yes, found this the last time I did an oil change too. Confused me for a bit.

The confidence thing is a good point. It's not just speed. How you handle being overtaken is something the examiner will assess. Swerve left, wobble, hug the kerb - he won't like it. Hold your line, do all your observations - he'll be much happier.

Instructor is not the one wielding power - he's there to get you through the test. The examiner makes the decision on the day. 50 in a 60 I don't think should be a fail in itself, but could be a minor fault for hesitation. Too many minors (or a single major) and you'll earn a fail.

Not sure about the exact situations, but there is always a judgement call to be made: the tension between making progress and undue hesitation. Junctions you can think of as "closed" or "open" - the former being where visibility is limited and you need to stop and look. The latter you can approach at a sensible pace while looking to flow onto the major road PROVIDING it's safe and doesn't cause anyone else to take avoiding action. As long as you're under control and can stop safely before the line if you need to. Plan ahead is the key. Roundabouts are complex junctions. Normally you'd aim to flow onto them without stopping, but the usual rules apply regarding having enough space. I'd always give way to both lanes when joining, as you never know when a vehicle on the roundabout is going to change lanes. But the bigger issue seems to be the friction between the student and instructor. I've had some "challenging" instructors in my time, and I'm sure they'd say the same about some of their students. Either you're getting: 1. poor advice 2. poorly communicated good advice ... or a third option.. 3. good advice, well communicated - but you're not listening I don't think it's 3. 2. could be worth sticking around for and gritting your teeth. 1. would be a good time to shop around. I have noticed some instructors seem focused on what you do wrong and come across as very critical. It's nothing personal, and if you can get past it there's usually plenty to learn. He won't bite your head off for asking to clarify.

There was the episode of them hiding the speed camera in the horsebox. https://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2008/march/march31northwaleshorseboxpictures-/