mattycoops43

Moo, if you car up, you will always be able to get a pillion with someone, just bring your gear!

Steve vai, Love passion and warfare, Living colour, Collideoscope. Straits, Brothers in arms. Kings x, Gretchen goes to nebraska. a whole load of random stuff to be honest.

Nope... must just be you The funniest thing, Mr Barry, is if you had met Boothy, you would know that was the worst example of 'kettle, pot, black' I had ever heard of! Made me laugh out loud!

Yep. And me, then it turns as you try and undo it and the guy helping you says, Oh bollocks, now we're going to have to do it the hard way!

Just find out for definite if you need a special socket or something to undo inside the bottom of the fork leg. I did my XJ ones and it was easy, the tool was a 17mm bolt if memory serves me right, which I put half in a socket so it would turn the multi pointed thing inside the leg. A Haynes will tell you, and they can normally be bodged. Other than that, pretty easy and I would recommend doing it yourself.

Looking good, what did you do with the exhaust?

Various people have said to use bike oil, not car oil as car oil has additives in it which can affect the clutch plates on a bike.

If they are the same as the XJ oil cooler pipes, the flexi bit rots and leaks, on those you cut out the flexi section and replace with fuel hose and jubilee clips. The correct ones from yamaha are over £100 and second hand ones always leak anyway. Oil cooler is not subjected to high pressure, so don't need to go overboard.

Yes on the length, but think about different strokes, a similar shock, that is meant to move half as far due to being geared (cam/link whatever) differently, will be twice as hard as a shock off a similar use bike and vice versa. SO if you get a shock off a bike that has a real hard rear set up, but put the shock on a bike that has half as much travel, it will be soft on that bike. Make sense?

Well, I am not too worried about pic quality, as it is more for insurance purposes in the case of someone hitting me off. I am more interested in finding which ones will automatically loop the recordings? and are a reasonable price.

It's either a knackered chain with tight spots, (this gives a clunking as the tight spots go over the sprockets) or it's an ambulance you haven't seen bumping you from behind in an effort to get you to pull over?

Bit of a post revival, but how have people got on with the cameras they bought? I want to get a cheaper end helmet cam now, but don't know which one to go for. I am guessing there are better and worse ones in the 30-50 range, but don't know where to look for info. Thanks.

You're welcome in a car!

So did I, then a 20mph spill wore through the FT Aquaboots leather till it was about 0.1mm thick and you could see my toes, so now I have sidi vertebrates with plastic armour all over them.

I think we all know short starts are not great, but as a general rule, any vehicle I have ever had that has been laid up for any amount of time has basically deteriorated. Cars more than bikes to be fair, but vehicles generally like to be driven/ridden. cars go mouldy, rubber manifolds and intakes dry out and crack, electric windows stop working. I think things just like to be used to keep them in good order. I think if I was taking a bike off the road for the winter I would do what my neighbour does, he keeps his three main bikes in his living room, each chair has a bike behind it. At least you know it will stay warm then. Mine lives outside, and I make myself go for a good long ride, even if I don't need to, at least once a month. I actually find it a good excuse to make me go for a ride, which I enjoy, whereas, otherwise, I might just not bother.

I have a lot of experience with small petrol engines in aircraft and rc cars etc, in them there are various seals and rubber things that need to be kept with fuel in or they dry out and crack. Is there nothing like this in a bike carb? Just surprised to see everyone say drain them that's all, I wouldn't.

I would love to know how much to wrap a fazer tank or tail unit with something interesting??? Welcome to the forum.

I don't I have not needed to change mine, but if I had discs that went rusty, I wouldn't change them for that reason. All I am saying is that discs going rusty does not mean they are not good discs. You judged that your discs were rubbish because they went rusty within 10 mins of washing the bike. I disagree. Trying to be helpful, I suggest you stick your sarcy reply up yer arse!

Yes, and the second you drive off down the road they clean themselves up. plus, anyone who knows anything about racing knows you have the best discs. What's the problem? personally, not interested in a compromise in braking performance, just to look better.

er..... The higher the iron content in a disc, the faster they rust and the better they brake. Don't know if things had changed, but back in the nineties it was normal to see a picture of a fully factory built,. immaculate factory bike, looking stunning, with bright red rusty discs.

Well, I think I proved them. Compared to original pads, the lever went a long way further to the bars, and they had to be used all the time or they just didn't work. They had to be hot all the time. I won't be fitting them again.

I am not disagreeing either, all I know is my mate who has ridden and raced for 30 yrs, rode my bike, got off it and said 'f**k me, I thought I was going to die when I got to the first corner, you got no brakes'. I thought they were fine! I had fitted the Gold fren sintered pads that I was given with the bike when I bought it. I had no idea if they were good or not. Anyway, I went and replaced the pads and immediately they were a million times better. I actually went to get EBC but the local dealer only had original fit sintered ones, but I thought they would be better than what was on and they really were. I suppose the real point is good quality pads over cheap shite ebay ones or worn ones.

Much cheaper to try changing the pads first, get rid of any super hard sintered jobbies first as you don't need them and they are hard on the discs, and cause a load of this type of issue, and put some bog standard EBC pads on. Bike mechanic mate swears by it and it certainly sorted out my brakes instantly!