mattycoops43

My gear was all brand new and up to date.

Hmmmm. After the ride home last night, I am thinking of getting one. I had two cars try and kill me in 4 miles of 30mph city road. First one pulled over to the left without indicating, I thought he was pulling to park or drop someone off, just as I am pulling level with him, he swings out and goes straight into a U turn. Then 200yds up the road another cock of a different variety just pulls out in front of me from a side junction. I knew he was going to do it, no idea how, I looked at him, and my spidey sense just said-'he's going'. Interesting question-has anyone got anyone prosecuted for dangerous driving by submitting footage to the police? I would certainly report the U turn idiot if I could!

Yes, being macho is bull. Firing 100 cartridges through a 12gauge in a couple of hours makes your whole body ache for a couple days afterwards and it's easy to pull a muscle. and YES I know how to shoot one properly, doesn't matter how hard you pull the gun in, a 12 gauge will still give you a hell of a kick! I would go for a 10 if I was starting again.

I used to love that, going into a comp with my £600 browning and pasting the toffs with their £30k guns! Archery is great because you can stand and shoot till your hearts content with no cost (once you have spent the money on the gear to start with!)

General engineering and mechanical background, used to race mini's back in the day, then restored and trialled landrovers, starting with a 1954 107" long wheelbase, and progressing on to various V8 rangerovers. Had a go at restoring various old jap bikes through the years. I have done all sorts of modelling through the years, which is actually a tremendous introduction to 'real mechanics'. I have raced Nitro rc cars and buggies, including a Serpent 1/8 track car that did 70mph and 0-60 in 2 seconds! Flown model planes for years, currently have a 30cc petrol engined aerobatic plane calld an MX-S. 2-1 power to weight ratio and will hang on the propeller at just over half throttle. Did Clay pigeon shooting for a while, but it was too expensive, so sold the shotgun and took up Archery instead. Which I still do. I have also played various instruments and been in bands, ran a recording studio, and a pa hire company. Go to Church. Very involved and play in the group there too (bass). I believe life is for living and I find football boring so have had to find things to fill all those hours it's on telly!

WOW! 2-3k think I would rather have a blade!

He probably means the new ninja 250 ie zx250r (I saw new, they are current but been around a few yrs). Although maybe not! Kawasaki have also just released the ninja 300 which looks very nice I think I am just behind the times! But even so, they are not a prolific market over here.

mmmmm Yes, yes and yes, BUT, they can be seized on. I did my XJ and it was seized solid, back brake didnt touch it, it just turned. The only way was wood through wheel, heat on nut AND someone holding the bike steady. I did my fazer 2 weeks ago and it came straight off easily. Just be prepared for a challenge!

Bear in mind that there are not many sub 500cc bikes around these days, people either tend to ride 125's or 500cc plus due to our laws, so if you want a zxr250 you are left looking for 12yr plus old bikes on ebay. That can be fine, and there are some very nice bikes out there, but it helps if you know what you are looking for. most of the 250 or 400 sports bikes were japanese imports due to their licensing laws making them popular over there. Having said that, a very nice zxr250 went for sale on here recently so they are about. Personally, I think if you are going to the hassle of doing your test in the first place, you might as well do it on a 600 and then you can ride whatever you like. Who knows where your interest will take you in the future?

Tango's right, but a lot of performance engines still use them, but underneath a foam sock filter. the stack is shaped to improve velocity into the carb and increase power. BMW's etc have them inside the air filter/manifold system.

My recommendation Michelin Pilot road 3's, not the cheapest, but very good. Try searching for 'tyres' you might have more luck!

Hammerite thinners are extortionate, you are right Steve, but usually I find it easier to buy £1 brushes from wickes or somewhere and just chuck em after 1 use, saves a lot of hassle, and a brush is never the same after hammerite!

Don't worry about lefties, they're all a bit weird!

Being wet obviously means less traction between road and textiles as well as between road and tyres! I think it depends largely if you are sliding on your actual armour, in which case the textile will wear through, but the armour will still protect, or just on textile. All accidents are different, I think partly it's pure luck as to how you happen to land, and what you hit. I don't think leather is a save all, I just think they maybe have the edge slightly in the sliding stakes!

If you have gone to the trouble of dismantling it, please get it stripped and powder coated! Hammerite is a good stop gap, but is not a permanent fix, rust will come through eventually. Hammeriting is a pretty permanent fix unless it actually gets damaged, and thats pretty hard to do, it's tough stuff!

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60k miles since May?

Yes, I agree with Alan, you should be able to get something for less than that. A gas soldering iron is cheap and a good idea as most the end comes off and you just get a tiny blue flame.

You just need a small gas blow torch that screws onto the top of a small bottle. They are pretty cheapo and very useful. Hairdryer wont even touch it, don't bother, but WD40 and a couple days soaking might do it on it's own. The most important tool with something like that is to make sure you got an allen driver that fits really wel so it doesn't round off, and you can get some torque on it.

There's no need to repost the same question more than once.

I have had fun with these too. First off, go and buy a socket drive hex bit, you'll struggle with allen keys. Only a couple of quid for a single socket. You probably have an extension for your socket set that will do the job then. Second, I wouldn't be using an impact driver, they are a bit fragile, you could even break the keepers if they are seized to the cap head Get a load of WD40 on it and leave for a day or two, more wd40 a few times will help, when its had a really god soak, get a load of heat into it, a simple blowtorch is very cheap and will work wonders! Matt

I think I LIKE you Mr Barry!

drum roll................. And.... we're back! "Don't need main beam" ?? Dipped beam is meant to be dipped for a reason you know!

"never said use the wrong tools for the job!" No, you said you wouldn't be too worried about damaging your bike. I'll try again. if you don't have the right tool to do something, the right type of screwdriver, or the right shaped socket to get somewhere awkward, go and buy one. A few quid is well spent, and will stop you damaging your bike.

My point is that they could be extremely good,and be fitted well, but many won't.