mattycoops43

Can someone else answer this? I didn't think it needed the exhaust blocked up to do a compression test? you are testing the sealing of the valves on a 4 stroke to see if the compression ratio is ok. Not sure how a compression test works on a 2 stroke but if it's like a nitro engine it will get compression whether exhaust is on or not, it should be measuring the compression in the cylinder head as the piston reaches the top, exhaust port is not open at this point. If you have tried it and got no compression that would be worrying me, but like I said, someone with 2 stroke experience needs to answer.

Get 12v across the starter motor it should spin up ok. no reason why it needs to be in a bike to do it, but it wants to be securely propped/wedged so it can't move when the starter jerks.

Once I was out late night (early hours) and a baby rabbit was frozen in my headlights. Far too late to do anything about it, I felt its head hit my toe as I went past at about 70. I have been slapped by a bitch, but then I dumped her.

I am going to give him the weekend to see if he comes back to me with anything, The bike is not wrecked and has not been wrecked. It's just that the repairs are going to make this bike knock on the door of the same price as one of the mint ones out there, and as it has been resprayed at some point, it is not worth that money!

Was ebay sale, auction though, not buy it now so less protection. I paid cash when I collected and couldn't see the damage when I looked it over at his house, obviously as soon as I got on it to ride it home I could tell the handlebars were not quite straight, but I think if you use ebay to bid on a vehicle, you don't turn up and start kicking tyres to haggle. However, the description says it is all ok and makes no mention of any damage, so I don't think he has described it right. I have emailed him to say I am not happy and will see what he says. if I get the money to buy a pair of stanchions I will be happy as there is no other damage, it has not been crashed at high speed or anything, it looks like it has just punted something. No damage to the frame where the bearings sit or anything which is apparently where they go in a big crash. If I get no joy, I will be taking it to ebay to see what they say.

Stripped the front of the vtr down, to find out why it was a bit twisted, hoping for best case scenario, had a new bottom yoke ready, typically the whole thing is Fxxxxd and has been in a crash, both forks are bent and then straightened in an obvious attempt to cover it up. Bike is rideable, and the bars are even straight now as the old yoke was bent, but I hate when a bike is not right, and it will bug me. Plus cant afford new stanchions as the cheap car I just bought 'off a mate' turns out to be a total shitbag, just spent £150 on parts today to rectify the lack of servicing. It took 3lt of oil yesterday just to get the oil level to reach the bottom of the dipstick! BAAAH

Ok, I was engaging in friendly banter, not wanting to make you feel silly. I was actually asking a serious question as I think 'sticky tyres' is fairly self explanatory, I thought you were being silly, and I was being silly in response. If our tyres don't stick to the road we fall off, more sticky tyres just means will grip a lot better. Welcome aboard and don't take me the wrong way!

I was last time I looked, is there a problem with the question? I DO apologise. They are tyres that are 'sticky'. Hope that clears things up! Mod edit: I know some things may come across as a " stupid question" but im sure new riders/members of this forum unless trolling are looking to improve their own knowledge rather than be ridiculed with sarcastic comments, please feel free to give answers and advice without the increasing sarcasm.Thanks!

Fair enough, but people talk about it like it's instant death to ride 1 mile with mismatched tyres, but lots of commuters just put whatevers cheapest on and change one at a time. Obviously if it feels wrong, they are not working together, but I reckon plenty must work together, and if you look there are lots of bikes with mismatched tyres out there. I am not saying it's not the best solution to have matched, I am just saying it is acceptable to have unmatched.

Right, EVERYONE says match front and rear tyres. I had a michelin PR on the rear and a Maxxis on the front of my fazer when I got it, I could get the pegs down. Just saying. A lot of the cheap tyres are quite sticky but don't last as long, the PR3's I have now are very sticky but are meant to last into the 10k's of miles, we'll find out soon! 'On the subject of tyres, does anyone know what is meant by 'sticky tyres'' er... Are you for real?

Thanks......... I think? freakin psycho!

What happens when you stop 'living with your mate' and have accumulated 3 tons of workshop shite?

Welcome aboard Walls! Glad you're here, now you can help us keep Moo under control! Good review, the foot thing could probably be dealt with, moving the bars would be a bit of a no no, but you could always take them off? Alternatively, you could adjust the brake lever down a bit, give you more toe room. and 'Size 15'??? REALLY??? No wonder Moo moo is always smiling!

Your the one that said new seals will be a tighter fit and feel different, not me. They won't.

you've got your opinion & I've got mine,, new seals will be a tighter fit, as I say give it a test ride before shouting the odds,,the guy collected it a van which would indicate his comments were made by trying to test while the bike is static & comparing the feel of the new seals against the old,,, as he says the old seals were leaking & who knows the amount of oil lost, creating excessive movement & lack of restriction,,,, of course new seals will make the bike feel different, but test ride it before you condemn the work done that being said,,, I'm well known for talking bollocks Sorry, having old or leaking seals, the bike will not feel any different to new seals, the different feeling comes from having a lack of oil due to it leaking out past the old oil seals. I don't know what you think seals do, but they don't have a friction effect on the fork leg, that's not what they are there for, that's what dampers do.

I cant believe how much that made me laugh! I don't even know why. I am quite worried now.

Mate, is that exhaust just a tube? I can't WAIT to hear it if that's the case!

I used to have a lot to do with running old landrover engines and mini engine (A type). As a general rule, any engine that has run for years on leaded will have a good layer of lead already embedded on the valve seats, so it will last for ages for occasional use. Unless you are planning on sitting on the motorway doing high mileage, I wouldn't worry too much about it, how many miles are you planning on doing? Yes, the timing will want changing slightly to compensate, but I have never heard of leaded engines running hotter? Most of them did because cooling systems back then were crap! If you use additive, you will have no issues. If it's a bike you plan on running for years and years, £200 for some modded heads is not a lot to spend. DO some research on the net though as from memory, some of the additives are a lot etter than others!

Matty: you would look like shrek crossed with a cow!! http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3204/2845016301_d8af80663d_z.jpg I am not sure I want to know the answer to this, but where the frick did you find that pic? I mean, I don't think I even want to know what websites you go on!

That may well be good, but I would try and convert it to run off the bike, you can guarantee the batteries will always be flat when you really need it! Yep that was on my list of things I never got round to doing (it's a very very long list ) It takes 8 AA batteries and they are supposed to last 4 hours. I'm supposed to be going to Scotland on Saturday, I may well dig it out to use 8xAA batteries means it runs on 12v so just needs wiring straight to battery.

That may well be good, but I would try and convert it to run off the bike, you can guarantee the batteries will always be flat when you really need it!

Good man! Me and Bex are 'motivational team members' (self appointed) so expect to be encouraged at inappropriate times!

There is definitely good gear around that is not £100s, but you need to buy smart, try a load of stuff on. A lot of the time we buy good gear that is reduced in sales to clear. Try to avoid the real budget stuff as it will leak more ( I mean stuff that's cheaply made, not necessarily cheap to buy, some of the aldi stuff is meant to be great). Feel free to come round and try on some of my clothes, but I expect the same in return!

Moo, in this weather, it doesn't matter, just layers on layers on layers, try to keep the cold wind away from you. Thats it really. My spada suit is being worn for 40 mile round trip everyday to work, leaving at 5am to cross the severn bridge. it is awesome, just wearing a vest and shirt under it and I am fine except for the coldest days, but even then I can cope for 20 mins. it is basically well layered up, thats why its so good. it was £200 though so I would expect it to be good. If you're riding through the winter then leather is not really the best (yes for protection, but not for the weather) so its a pain adding loads of layers on top. a good textile jacket or suit is definitely warmer.

That is some sexy moo shizzle right there!