mattycoops43

Reverse your bars! Turn them upside down, it's what the old cafe racer boys did and it works.

I had this, small flame on the cap to heat it, wd40 sprayed on and then I used the ppe grippy bit of a pair of pliers on the rubber stem to stop it twisting when I turned the cap with pliers. Very thorough inspection of the rubber stem afterwards to make sure it's not been damaged by the twisting and pliers. If in doubt get them changed because if the stem goes, that's effectively a blow out. Mine were ok, they are pretty tough. And as has been said, a smear of grease ensures no probs in the future (plus more regular checking)

I don't know. I leave you guys alone for five minutes and all hell brakes loose!

Come on, we all know knee down is SO 2012! It's Shoulder down now! I do it on my commute all the time!

I tend to hold the bike vertical with one hand on the seat, as long as you keep it vertical, it's fairly easy. Then use the free hand to wheel the stand under the bike, once the stand is touching the swingarm, the paddock stand will hold the bike upright, so you can take your first hand off the bike.

No f*cking way!! She was a moron, we need Zod kinda drama - miss his hilariousness ! http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx302/BikerMooFromMars/alien_motorbike_postcards-r1e4294f207c247bcaa9d4aca0a22f115_vgbaq_8byvr_324_zpsee4fa0fc.jpg Where did you get a pic of Zod? I thought that was classified!

Yep, use them on my textiles. they are great, they can be quite loose, but still do the job, way more comfy than having waist done up tight to try and stop the trousers moving. I use a set of Oregon ones from my chainsaw gear, they dont need to be bike ones, as long as they clip on and preferably are elasticy.

Nup, they definitely changed the gearbox oil, Guy mentioned it, they did it after each run.

Yes,take it back. BUT most new visors are not adjusted properly, unless you are looking at £400 helmets. Loosen the screws holding the hinges and adjust it so there is no gap, it takes a bit of fiddling, even if there is no actual adjustment, you can loosen it and wiggle the hinges, there is a tiny bit of movement. My hjc was well out, no actual adjustment, but I managed to get it airtight.

Nikwax spray on here. Works every time. A dose lasts about 6 months of daily wear before getting a leak, then just re apply.

Be aware that a stainless system will sound a bit more 'tinkly' than a mild steel system, the engine is not broke, it is to do with the nature of the stainless. You ill hear noises you haven't heard before. Partly cos stainless will be thinner to do the same job.

Sorry, I was forgetting. It's probably behind the cover, in the engine casing. You slacken the lock nut, then screw the adjuster in till you feel it touch, any further in and you are disengaging the clutch. What you CAN do though is screw it out further, meaning the cable has to pull further to operate the clutch, this will give you more pull on the cable (ie adjusting the lever in towards the bars) without making the clutch slip. Hope this makes sense.

There will be a locknut and an adjuster screw in the sprocket cover somewhere, you slacken the locknut and then can adjust the bite point from that end. But you still need to have it so there is play in the cable when let out or clutch will be slipping.

Have you tried putting the seal on the piston a bit further down than where it would sit normally , then inserting the piston into the caliper body? You may find this will help as the inside circumference of the seal will be tensioned over the outside circumference of the piston. I don't understand this? The seals in calipers are square section and 2-3mm deep. If you put it on the piston it will just slide up the piston as you slide it in. It may be you have got too much brake fluid on and it is sitting behind the seals pushing them out. they dont need fluid all over, just wipe them dry, try to refit, then wipe the rubber grease or brake fluid onto the exposed surface before sliding pistons in.

Yes, it's called caliper grease and is red, don't put anything else in there or it may perish the seals.

Impossible to diagnose properly on here without a load of info and you trying stuff. Answer to your question? Yes, it COULD be something major. Walk away unless it's going for peanuts or you really fancy getting your hands dirty. It could be a really easy fix, but it's a gamble at the end of the day.

YAY! Well done matey.

Having come off in textiles, I would not want to be going on a track in them. If you're not trying to go a bit quick on a track what's the point? and if you're going a bit quick there is a higher chance of coming off.

I'm sure he was being gentle with you lol Stay safe Oldest trick in the book, say you're gonna take it steady, then rev the nipples off it in an attempt to persuade the hapless victim it goes faster than it actually does.

You're not publishing a section of the book, you're publishing a photo of the book. I think that's ok.

Yes, sorry Chris is right, I doubt it is bulb as both have gone, but I missed the fact you said rear lights are on, this means not light switch or they wouldn't work either. I would be checking wiring that goes to the lights, check the plug connector is on the bulb properly etc.

WHOAA there cowboy. Very unusual for high beam and low beam to both go together, they are separate filaments whether it's one or two bulbs makes no odds. Spray some WD40 on the light on off switch and flick it on and off a few times, it is probably corrosion on the switch contacts caused by not being used and it being damp. My flash button stopped working and I had to strip it and clean the green yuck off the contacts from inside the switch.

I think some serious ass needs kicking, but to get a refund, I reckon you would need to get some advice from CAB or trading standards and go in armed with the relevant legal info. Not fit for purpose would probably be my way in.

Doesn't work like that. You get a build up of crud in the carbs and then one day a big lump of crud gets sucked into a jet and bingo. bike runs like poo. Another thing to check is inline fuel filter. If they get old, the paper ones can start gradually feeding bits of paper through into the carbs, which again will make it instantly stop working.

If you are careful, just get the carbs off, take the float bowls off and clean the jets through with some carb cleaner spray. There will probably be rusty crap sediment in the bottoms of the carbs, there were in mine. If you are careful, you shouldn't need any bits to do a clean, but a rebuild kit with new seals etc is not going to do any harm.