mattycoops43

Yes, it's a long time since I have thought about this consciously, so you made me think, but basically, if the bike is moving to the left, left lifesaver, you are checking the space of road you are moving into to see if anyone is there already.

Glad yer ok, I have to get on a track this year, never done it yet.

Why didn't you grass? we all pay for her!

Happy Birthday matey!

I have bought from USA and not got hit with charges, it depends which country customs is picking on at the moment, they go in phases, they were hitting anything from China a while back. Pot luck to be honest, just factor in that you might get charged duty on the import, and buy accordingly. Reckon it's about 50/50 whether you get charged or not.

I don't understand the argument here. If you aquaplane and spin out, you were going too fast, that's just physics. If you didn't know there was bad surface there, or how deep the water was, or that your tyres are bald, that's still your fault. You 'drive to the conditions' so if you can see the road ahead is not dry and clear, and there might be water/ice/gravel etc etc you SLOW DOWN. Simples.

Sadly, when you work on the road all day every day, you realise very quickly that 90% of people don't give a flying twit about anyone except themselves. There nice people about though, and you have to appreciate them when you meet them.

The metal will not stop giving off fumes, unless you leave it for months to vent off it will still go bang, especially if it's rusty, the rusty bits will hold crap and petrol. Water is one way, it will be fine as long as it's properly dried out afterwards, but another alternative to that is fill it with sand, it replaces all the gas, so while the petrol might flame, it wont go bang. Haven't done it yet, but have seen it done, and am about to try it on an RD tank. We're doing the sand route.

I have them on my Storm and love them They reckon MORE longevity over the 3's and they are stiffer to stop squirming on the edge of the tread, the 3's had sypes going to the edge, the 4's have fewer, and more in the centre of the tyre They certainly feel firmer to me, but my 3's were on a different bike so it's hard to judge.

My riding buddy put hard pads on his blade, took them off after a couple of weeks because they were visibly eating the discs. Not good at £300 a pair. Rebuilt/serviced calipers, and new pads are normally a million miles better than the doggy old turds on most peoples bikes with ancient pads and warped discs.

I will echo the sentiment though, well said cat!

Cat's after something..........lol ooooh, so cynical for one so young Young?

Couldn't be bothered to watch till the end, the acting was too bad!

When the reg rec went on my storm, on the way to work, they recovered me back across the severn bridge no issues. I think it does depend on the level of cover though, they do do basic cover if you want.

Thanks, I have joined up and asked the question.

Push it up a slope, it doesn't take much. I have bump started a fazer on the level, just tried starter, in second, and paddled the bike along to give the starter an extra push. If it's FLAT flat, you will never bump start it, that's what jump starting is for!

Not sure about auto switching but a simple double pole double throw switch will do it, centre contacts to the charger, one end to the battery and one end to the ignition. You could wire in a telltale led so when it is set to battery there is an led showing so you don't forget.

+1 for RAC They cover the person so you are covered whatever vehicle you are in, even as a passenger. They always do their utmost to fix by the roadside, it seems to be a challenge to them.

Learn how to bump start a bike, it's not that hard if the battery is 'just' too flat to spin it over.

No.

That's the cheapest I have seen yet thanks, but I dont think it's in the uk. I am hoping to sort it for less than that. I got a solenoid for £16, which I might swap for a dc one so it will work off the trigger wire. Might spend a day creating a trigger out of metal with a bolt to press the valve. Haven't decided yet.

Nup. Been there. 7 different triggers for my model. Sent photos in, they say mine is discontinued, need a new torch at £127. I declined.

Yes thanks. I will have an explore, I suppose I was looking for a starting point where to look, or even a definitive answer to whether 24VAC is found in a mig welder. The answer may be 'no, you need a 240v one'

Hi peeps. Right, I am after some info. My welder (SIP topmig140turbo) has a gas valve in the torch. I leant it to some muppet while it was on gasless and he took the trigger off and threw it away because it was sticking, and it worked by just pushing on the microswitch. Now I want to service it and put it on gas, there is no way to push the valve. I have looked at making a trigger but it is quite a wierd shape and would not be easy. After looking into it, the best solution is to fit a gas solenoid inside the machine, it is fairly simple and solves the problem. It is standard practise when converting to eurotorch connectors. I bought myself a solenoid before really looking into it, because they are available in different voltages. I have got a 24VAC solenoid. 240VAC and DC ones are also available. Basically, my only issue is working out whether a 24vAC supply is available in the welder when the trigger is switched or not. I have a wiring diagram for it but it doesn't show voltages anywhere,and I am not good enough at the theory to work it out. Plus it is a very basic diagram with no detail or values, just a basic layout. According to the manual it is an AC welder. My basic understanding is that the input to the transformer is 240VAC which is switched on and off via a circuit board which controls the mains. SO am I right in thinking that the output voltage (for an AC welder) will be a smaller AC voltage at the other end of the transformer? So could be used to switch the solenoid? I get the impression the current to the trigger switch is DC so won't work the solenoid. If all else fails I can get a different voltage solenoid, 240V might be simplest, but I just want to find out if I can use this one. Any explanation would be helpful. There are various welding forum how to's of this, it's very common, but they all assume a fairly high electrical knowledge which I don't have. I am good on 12v stuff, but variable voltage systems I am totally lost. Ta

Oh, and it was all brand new internals from Suzuki I found out today, so it looks like the build quality on their brake components is the same as their bodywork and paint!