mattycoops43

Yeah, that sucks rotten eggs! Hope you AND Rach get something sorted without too much delay. Personally think good on you for telling them to shove the whole reapply thing, takes the mick, reapply for a job you have proven yourself in for lower pay and worse conditions. My dad has to do it every year but is retiring this year so not bothered.

I have got both. Top box IS better as it should be completely waterproof and secure, but it is also expensive, the box can be had cheap, mine was £20 off fleabay, but the rack for your bike will cost a lot, it cost £90 for a renntec rack for the top box to bolt on. Having said that, tailpack is much cheaper alternative, can carry pretty much as much stuff and with a rain cover will be waterproof, also has straps and stuff to tie extra things onto it. Both are good, if you can afford a top box and rack, then get one, if not a tailpack is a good buy, used on ebay is pretty handy, I had a set of tailpack, panniers and tankbag for £50 all in! Tank bag is also a very handy tool! I use one with my top box.

Yes, with most bikes, you can go to a site like wemoto and it will list standard sprockets, and then +1, +2 etc, so you can alter gearing.

Ok, coming soon is a review of their warranty procedures. I have had a leg zip go after 6 months of daily use, so it will be going back to the stealers tomorrow to be sent back for inspection/repair/replacement. Really hoping they sort it, can't wear it anymore as the zip goes above the knee so is safety critical. I'll let you know what their service is like!

I tried EBC on the fazer when I changed them last and they are spot on! Won't be using anything else.

push the pistons in the calipers right back in as far as they go, careful master cylinder doesn't overflow, then pump them back out again with the lever and top up master cylinder as necessary. never failed on any of my bikes, it reverse bleeds but also can move around any lumps of dirt stuck in the calipers.

Awesome sauce! have fun!

Can you take the linings out to check if the foam inside is cracked? Personally I would not worry, a metre when the lid is empty should be ok, opinions vary, but that's mine. I have dropped mine from that height and still use it.

Thanks Stu, but that was what I meant, you can get boxes of the whole range of sizes and I thought someone might have one and want to sell a couple of odd ones. There's also a lot of odd new ones for sale so I reckon people end up with unused ones probably by measuring wrong. Got no problem using used ones as long as they are the measurement I need.

Hiya, I got a noisy follower on the fazer and it's overdue so I am going to do the shims on it. does anyone have either a box set of shims or any random odd ones they want to sell? if so, let me know what sizes you have and I will see what I need when it comes to pieces, Should have done it when we did cam chain but we spent so long doing the chain we didn't get round to it. I'll be good at taking the cams out anyway! maybe we should do a shim swapshop for everybody? mine are usual 7.5mm yamaha jobbies.

On a fazer it is MUCH harder to do it on the sidestand than on the centrestand, so the weight of the bike on the shock definitely makes a difference.

It's not a 'push cable' it's the pull to close cable, it's what overcomes the friction of the pull to open cable and makes sure your throttles shut. I would not be overly happy running a single cable throttle without a lot of checking and setting up to make sure it would 100% shut every time instantly. If you just remove the second cable, it is quite possible the throttles won't shut smoothly which would be a challenging commute.

pull the rubber back and see if there's a nut drive hidden under it, or look for a cap head end on the small end.

THIS! It is not 'Compulsory basic Test' it is 'Compulsory Basic TRAINING'. It is not meant to be a pass/fail situation. If they feel you need a bit more then fine, but it is not a fail and they should not be charging more. The government just says if you have done this basic training you are capable of going on the road, we all have to start somewhere!

I have a Weiss one that's still dry after 10yrs.

I hear ya brother!

Try driving in a city all day for a job.# I hate ALL cyclists, they are inconsiderate morons. They either wobble up the road at 5mph but weave out so you can't go past or force past at high speed on a red light then refuse to let anyone in a powered vehicle past when they are doing 10mph up a hill. Seriously, ban them, and I just bought a mountain bike! Ban myself! we're ALL w**kers! (actually I ride on the pavement cos I am a fat bast*rd who can't go more than 5mph.)

Lol, I just got a mountain bike and I am having a GREAT time going out on it in normal clothes and no helmet. It's hilarious, all the cycling nazi's look at me like the world is broken, 'WHAT! ? You're on a mountain bike WITHOUT A HELMET?@ and WHERE'S the Lycra????????' Hilarious!

Ok Moo, I'll try it.

Bikermoofrommars ?

Annoying! I didn't say f**k twice, I said Fxxkety f**k.

Yes it is, however, how the frigging fuckety f**k did 'flaps' get on moos list?

If you can get the lever and pivot or mount separate from the master cylinder, just boil the whole lot in a big pan for 20 mins, will unseize anything! Obv don't want to boil the master cylinder, but if you can get it down to just metal parts it won't do any damage. Perfect for alloy to steel joins that frequently seize.

Everyone I know who has tried the higher riders reckons they make an immense difference!

Not tried them myself, but I don't like the idea of an external one. Have heard excellent reports of the built in ones, but seat softness is not normally the problem with aching back etc, I would be looking to change the ergonomics of the bike. The fazer used to make my hips hurt as it was upright seating but legs were high, so the hips were bent. A higher seat would probably help there, and high bars to stop the back aching. Maybe get the seat reshaped, and put gel in at the same time?