mattycoops43

I don't have any experience of using air tools, but I have been told by mechanic friends that most air tools use a lot of air, so if you don't have a 50lt comp at least not too bother. The one I have is fine for paint guns, tyre inflators and a blow gun for drying or cleaning dust off, all fine for that.

Bear in mind that with a compressor cycle time is important so if it has to run continually to keep up it will be clapped out in a short period of time. The bigger the cylinder the better as it allows the motor to stop and cool down.

It's fine but I don't know how to compare it. I have heard lots of small compressors run and it's just the same. not as loud as a bigger one.

I got this and it works great. 25lt 2hp, it had a slightly higher flow than similar ones on ebay but it is probably the same one with a different sticker on it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-COMPRESSO ... 51b9eb1a55

I had links seized on my Storm chain, but it was in otherwise good nick, so I put it in a carrier bag, then drenched it in WD40, and then used pliers at first then fingers to bend the seized links back and fore and they soon freed up. I have had several very early 80s jap bikes that were 70s models. The worst thing was 80s tyres, they were terrifying over manhole covers.

Yup. All helmets are noisy. Get used to earplugs.

I love a Gibson, I love the shorter neck, everything feels easier! What I really want is a les paul with a floyd rose on it. Someone somewhere did one but I can't remember who. It wasn't Gibson I know that but it was Les Paul shape. One thing I will say is the name doesn't make a good guitar, plenty of 2k guitars I have played have been horrendously made. I think the worst was in the 90s a clapton signature strat that cost a grand and was the worst lump of wood to ever grace a stage. On the other hand some of the far eastern copies are extremely well made and leave the factory well set up. All you have to do is change the $2 microphonic pickups for something decent. Basically my no1 rule is never EVER buy a guitar without playing it myself, and never trust that because something is expensive it will play well. Why not chop the strat in for a mid range Les Paul copy made by a decent company and buy a bike as well?

Loads of compressors on fleecebay for £80 seems to be the going price. I got one and it seems to work fine.

I have played guitar, bass and drums for years. Years ago when I was young it was all about having loads of guitars, I had them lined up in my bedroom but over the years I have changed and now it just comes down to whether they do the job or not, so I have a nice handmade acoustic, a custom electric I made from a joe satch neck and a washburn body and several bass's because I am playing in church currently and they are getting used. I have friends that ask me about what the latest amps are like and what effects modelling to use and I have no idea, I don't follow new releases, I just go hunting when I need something new. Probably not helpful to you, but if I was you I was just ask do the guitars I have do what I need them to do, and if they do I would buy a bike,

At least look at the carb rubbers, all you have to do is literally look at them and see if they are cracked. Not too bad a job to change, you can get them out by just moving the carbs back a bit, so a lot easier than removing it all.

What Stu said. OR Carb rubbers (where they mount on the engine) are cracking and letting air in (they are known for it) OR One coil pack breaking down, the vibing is it dropping onto 3 cylinders I did thousands of miles on mine and those three issues are the only things that ever made it run rough. Carb clean IS simple, but getting the carbs off a fazer is not if you have not worked on bikes a lot. You have to take battery out and move the filter and battery box back to allow clearance and the connections on the cables etc are extremely tight to get into, plus it has tiny water hoses to heat the carbs, they perish and need to be replaced when you do the job. All simple stuff but maybe not if you're unsure. I would rule out coil pack unless it gets worse in the wet, and you can SEE the carb rubbers cracking if they go, they physically crack and you can see when the bike runs the carbs bounce in and out with the suction. If they are cracked this shows the cracks. Rubbers are about £80 from wemoto or used good ones on the bay £40

yeah, that doesn't rule it out, that's just my experience, you still need to be checked.

ha ha ha ha! Me and Si play a different game, we go out on the local VERY twisty roads, hit about 70-80mph and just hold the speed, don't blast the straights, there's no point. Anyone can blat down a straight at 140+ on a superbike, but that way lies lack of license and hospital visits! Much more entertaining to sit back and watch Si overtake a gsxr1000 in the middle of a 90* bend on a cb500. Hysterical, they must feel like right tools! We pretty much ride the same speed whether out on our superbikes or RS250s.

Get checked out. If untreated it's very dangerous. I am type two. One of the pointers for me wa getting up in the night a lot to pee, ended up with me actually wetting the bed. Your body pees to try and get rid of the excess sugar, one noticeable thing is your wee will smell strongly, for me it smelt of kitkat chunky bizzarre as it may sound, but it obviously wasn't right. However, there are lots of reasons you could be thirsty and drinking loads will be the cause of weeing loads. I was weeing loads without drinking a lot.

I've only just discovered PS3!!!

I would go for big bore kit, cos you can always do headwork as well in the future. sounds like a fun project. I think I would like a tacho though.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHEAP-HONDA-C ... 43d052d5f3 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB250n- ... 43d0612416 (Bet he'd take 650 for that one) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-HONDA-CB ... 2341acffd8 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-cb250rs ... 418840735a http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1980-HONDA-CB ... 43c63fc72b http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB-250R ... 33966af011 I am sure they would all need work, but chances are so would the £800 one, it might just be shinier.

CB250RS is the one to go for. He has several, they have been collected over a long time, but he knows them like the back of his hand and watches the net for them coming up. I am going to do one for myself as my next project. There will always be dearer bikes out there, and it's up to you if you think its worth the money, but you can get them for the £500 mark in working condition. One thing I have learnt, sh bikes always need things sorting, so if you buy one that is sold as 'immaculate' or you buy a grotty one, you will always end up spending money on things like tyres, chain and sprockets, fork rebuilds, brake caliper rebuilds etc etc, so I think you might as well buy a cheaper one and build it up into the bike YOU want. Lots of bikes that look lovely, fall apart as soon as you start riding because they have been stored up or just been low mileage, but seals and things go dry, then when it gets ridden daily, things like fork seals just start to fail. A slightly tatty one that is ridden all the time will always be a good bet if it's been maintained. Don't worry if it is blowing a bit of smoke/oil from the rocker as there basically aren't any on the road that don't do it. it tells you there is oil at the top of the engine which is a good thing, oh and your right trouser leg will always be waterproof.

CB250s are ace fun. my mate has several. that is steep unless its mint though, going rate is about 500. check for oil blowing from rocker cover, the cam runs in the metal of the head and rocker, rocker is metal to metal with no gasket, because it holds the cam once it wears it starts to leak from the join, they mostly smoke a bit but still run fine.

Depends how handy you are. A lot of the time if a part is not available you can modify a newer system off a modern bike to fit, so if you have carbs with an unobtainable part, you can swap carbs for some off a newer bike, but like I say depends how handy you are withy stuff like that. Usual service parts are not a problem though as has been said, so if you get one in good working order and look after it you should be ok and parts are probably cheap. The problem comes ( I know from experience) when you buy a bike that 'only needs this simple little widget to get it on the road' then you find out the said widget has not been available for 20 yrs and is the reason the bike is not on the road.

Stick it in a lathe, get a bit of emery on it, it will come up good as new! perhaps.

It will have mini bulbs or grain of wheat bulbs and most of them will be knackered. Unbolt your clocks, take the back off and change the bulbs. Change all of them as they go dim before they die. You will be amazed at the difference. I did it on my FZS and it transformed the bike at night. Don't know the exact details of the bandit clocks, but I am sure someone can give you some pointers.

DO NOT prise the pistons back against the disc. Discs warp easily and they are EXPENSIVE, Most fully floating discs are in the region of 100-150 quid. And are very fragile. Takes a couple of minutes to remove caliper. although on my bike, pads pop out the top after removing the pins, and I can push the pistons back with my fingertips.

If your caliper is in good nick and not corroded up (the pistons) you can do it with your fingers. They will be stiff but will move slowly with a fairly small amount of pressure.

Looking good mate. You got a plan for the welding? do you know anyone?