RideWithStyles

I’m surprised it passed any previous mots. id be fashion a small flat alu play to cover it it up, two tiny bolts to hold it in place. If it was possible, like a naked bike I’d adjust the whole light assembly, tilt/rotate it to the left! Yeah modern LEDs have a flat wide beam to get round the problem so it’s shit no matter what country side of the road you have to ride on. It’s fine for cars but down right dangerous for bikes! It has to tilt to turn the fing muppets i know I had to bike one for four fooking years with it fixed without any stupid motors or gyros to correct it…..extra fooking super retarded EU barsturds.

Boom

Sorry could be quite a few, ignition, wiring, fuel. Id look at the fuel first,tank, line, pump, carb. then ignition……

Yeah sounds like they got it from a supplier, might be correct for size but no way to confirm it’s actually correct for spec. Send them back and get a refund, bad rep these cowboys.

Lovely birds! silly human visitors fault for having a large convenient mobile raft to be of interest, also i see it as What the locals think of the tourists, much to your dismay.

Been with hasting more than Bennett’s to be honest but most of the time bouncing between to two. Im fine with them only thing that is against Hastings is the charges to change something (your or theirs), and if you cancel it.

I’d consider myself very low risk but as statistics will say….if you haven’t claimed yet sooner or later will do! with that bennets and under writers will be less likely to earn any money from me what so ever this year.

Holbeach linc. mobile bike tyres linc. tyres 4 bikes linc. Discs left on is fine, take the rear rubber crush drives out. Best give the wheels and discs a really good clean before you hand it to them.

Hi, don’t feel bad about it, asking for help is better than not doing. Most cbf leave the factory level with the peg…most people don’t adjust them as they believe it can’t be but for people over 5ft it’s too high up. most likly its not what your particularly doing wrong but humans adapt around problems very well but the bikes set up for you! So what im saying its ergonomically not set up for you, while it has been designed so there is some adjustment but you just don’t know about it. depending on what year your cbf is but most have a fixed rod (blue arrow) rather than adjustable, but the clamp (in red arrow) that holds onto the toothed gear shaft is adjustable, one hex bolt holds its on in a grooved spline. Rotating the clamp top towards the front of the bike a tooth or two at most will be more than enough to adjust for you.

Good morning all. just had my Bennett’s renewal through. Short of it is 40% increase in premium and the voluntary excess doubled by them so the excess is two and a half times more than the policy! nothing on my side what has changed, other than me looking at another broker/hastings.

Unlike fleck I wouldnt look downer about 46hp as thats his perspective’s not necessarily your or anyone else’s. I spent over 4 years on 500cc 46hp by choice after life of 955cc 150hp…its in the configuration of the engine that makes more sense. how old are we taking about your will to go down to? Pagetts in Yorkshire has stuff like that but I wouldn’t say they are cheap to sell just certified being it is. cbf600 is an very old bike in your choices (if its the one om thinking of?) and less choices unless it’s very rough. The vstrom is a twin so leaps off the mark and has been around (still is), parts available, garages will happily service them, Suzuki has programmes for supply parts for the older bikes that generally don’t cost a fortune. the only thing of these older bikes is if your capability and money terms to service these older bikes? If you want an easier life and longer term with said bike, I’d go new with a proper trusted manufacturer either Honda or Suzuki will do, you just need to work out what type of bike will work for you best -naked, road cross adventure etc rather than soley years/miles and a few hundred quid difference.

As JRH and Tin mostly mentioned. belts are just a cost down option for the design and manufacturer, cheaper, slightly quieter (though depending on the engine), lighter, better for a garage. Soley Ends up being the customers/owners long term problem, so to my mind it’s a one finger salute to the customer that you paid them for. back in the day when Germans designed their engines early on properly 80-2010 (at a push), they also had chains driven engines lasted yonks without maintenance needed for the timing, yes it costed more to make, weighed a bit more, made the tiniest touch more noise that even a db reading noticed (before engine noise damping was seriously considered for tougher euro regs). But over the life of the engine more than paid for itself, made them last and give premium touches. i had a e36 beemer, 2.5 six, chain driven,automatic lasted 200,000 before a water ford and several hundred miles afterwards killed it, all it mostly had was normal services to it. I have no doubt it would have easily done the same mileage again. ford ecoBOOM as they are well called , more likely an internal leaking will grenade the engine before the belt needs changing. yeah not a fan of what Honda are doing in bikes and car of the last 15 or so years. PSA…..unless your French and so home brew dedicated i seriously don’t understand how someone put up with their bs or why they still can’t build a car correctly after all these years? Sis in law picked up a brand new scenic …the key card buttons dont do what you press, a few weeks into ownership and the boot self opens in the middle of the night all by itself like a dog suddenly taking a shit, the same issues with the megane and lugoona 20 plus years ago!!!

Well this is why I said, you and bikes have changed. you may find something you never thought would be you back then but it is now? open your view to Big naked, roadster, sport touring, cruiser or a road going adventure bike for example. Something like mcn is good start. there was one site that gave you the rider to bike triangle but it was old and not very up to date. abs is on all modernish bikes. i wouldnt get hung up on cc too much, what engine configuration is more important.

Agree with Capt. Another thing it might not be the throttle bodies that are at fault but you go round screwing with it and making another problem to deal with. Its a classic YT video for a mechanic…just rolled in, he tried to fix it himself. this is why you have that old garage joke: wanting it fixed £45ph, if you tried to fix it yourself before hand £90ph…... All leads to assuming.

with a question like that I think you should Get a mechanic to do it for you, better for everyone. If you don’t want to heed the advice - Haynes manual or manualslib.com

Yes agree but to many noisey mofos around that want to or able to put shite on Yt.

Kill switch wouldnt let it do owt from the start. yes they are small have little compression but still need somewhat of a decent battery at least to over come the decompression system. If you don’t have a volt meter to check the battery of what it’s like I’d give it a charge, if straight after a good charge it fires, buy it a good battery, a yuasa battery with at least 100-110cca. Don’t use a lithium one…its not designed for it and will goose it.

Mathematically correct but realistically and in the real world it is not. No two models of the same manufacturer tyre is the same profile even with the same sizes, let alone different manufacturers. even when changed the tyres if you pay attention to the details prior to wear of the old one, some tyres will be closer to the mud guard than others even with the same size and pressure put through it- was true with the cbf125, zx6, Daytona, beneli, gsf. If you question, hence why a Dunlops RS4 might be more stable but its steering is slower than say a Pirelli Agt or a mich even though they are same size and pressure? Because the profile is different, mathematically it will be somewhere near but how a manufacturer gets or sees that is up to them, add in a difference in rear profile and the character changes again even if you said 120/70 fronts and 160/60 rears or another matching of your choice. As a general rule If I was to recommend any tyre to someone I didnt know, didn’t know what they wanted, need or liked id say two manufacturers you can’t go wrong with first would be Michelin and they really go out to make sure it ticks as many boxes for the user and Pirelli. You could try to make the tyre soft and forgiving while with pressure already high but most of the time or the average road user is very difficult when the tyre is harder and plastic feeling but its easier to take the pressure up ways to make have more feeling and safe when it’s a softer tyre.

Depends on if we are talking fine details or accountability? if the rim excepts that size, there is space for the mud guard, swing arm sides and u section, chain and tyre clearance …your manufacturer or tyre supplier will advise . but id say you could but if no other realistic options are available. handling will most likely change a little bit due to the slightly higher profile and taking into accounts of the front tyres profile and wear, it wouldn’t make it death trap but certainly side by side like for like will be subtle, ud more more likely to notice a difference between manufacturer and models profile differences of the same sizes as a michs 120/70 road 6 will be different than saya dunlops road smart 4s of the same sizes rather than the 10mm over 140mm

They do, about £280 just for the tyres supplied. dont be concerned about tyres that are a generation or two older in tech - so with michs i will be road 5, 4, 3, pilots etc they were great then and still Great now just cheaper - as long as they are still fresh from manufactured, by buying it from a reputable retailer it’s golden.

Hi, depends on your use case (commute, summer use only etc) and what was on already so we know what not working for you? pirelli Angel city are good all round tyres as our 125 had them on as a all year use, only near freezing do you have to give them a few miles to let them come up to temperature before throwing them about on greasy kack coated round abouts, quite good results with different pressures. harder carcass then the mich but softer than bridges. Life span is sort of lower to middle. michelins are very good in cold weathers, in the very hot temps they can get very warm but due to the soft carcass they are sensitive to pressures and what people see as lack of feel. If want a comfortable quiet tyre and can just trust them blindly to do their thing this is the one. Mileage is good with these but can be costly. some seem to be a fan of Bridgestone (I am not) bt46s but they are a harder carcass and older design. These can feel more plastic but some want the tyre to shout at them to tell them what’s going on if this is you then ok. Life span is quite good but most of the time cheaper to buy. i didnt mind the continentals personally but the wife wasn’t as keen on them. if it’s truly all year and rural use anlas winter grip might be worth a try. If its true budget and good/mild weather use only maxxis and cst might be worth a go but life span will be low.

Well I gone and got camo jacket not the outlandish ones but this Revit shade it’s a good jacket even the wife admitted was nice, she even said are you going to get some camo pants too? I’m sure she was joking about it…. I’ll hopefully get chance to try it out this weekend? so I will still need my wits about me .

SD. Lots of ???? Is in the clue, I'm guess you’re fishing for volunteer(s) to do it.

Like the word “QUITE as” you added in there .

Questions are good to ask, never asking is stupid! .