RideWithStyles

No its smaller,cheaper even with shite bags (unless were talking vet bills), a ball or a sqweaky toy and it’s all good.

Might German but this band is a lot of its stuff has seriously hit me well recently, there is hope yet for us all. Spread the love but only to those trying that deserve it.

I laugh even harder as STU being a bm lover yet completely ignores capty post oblivious to it. . (trying to avoid points to a ban for a bit longer…)

Wtf??? Is this some HR corporate power trip bullshite - the next level major evil to American corporate or British government greedy fook heads to screw over the gullible or weak? if ain’t on straight days your being fooked over, if you work any lates or nights for less than more than double the difference your being fooked over, if your working weekends for less than triple or quadruple your being fooked over and any other inbetween or special days your being fooked over or have no British standards or morals. thats my view, you may have different and I won’t say owt.

Mother in law??? was it tastey? so what did wifey get you? wifey gave me: A bottle of bunnhabhain whiskey and couple small packs of vocation life and death beers . Appreciate the other half’s cos I’ve seen many times what happens when the good ones go.

A good independent dealer or a proper mechanic is better bet than even the manufacturers dealer in my humble opinion, cars or bikes…… oils have a lot of responsibility! Bar short of any basic design and metal problem, oil can be engineered to solve a load of shortfalls, weather it’s a compactiblilty, design, environment or social issue, too much or not or not enough of something can seriously fook an engine double quick time! Chemistry is amazing but can’t solve muppets in power or make decisions.

Like how you used a plant pot! lol. oil isn’t too bad, its air cooled single cylinder, if they don’t burn it off first from hard use its gets a little durty. I wouldnt run an engine flush, fresh oil is a cleaner for the engine, if your concerned just change the oil again before schedule. Its cheap stuff, doesn’t take a lot of it and easy to do.

I think you’re tough on yourself yet giving Honda too much credit. HGV,yellow goods, av etc are very different beasts and so their requirements are different. The amount of maintenance required to some of those things are just mental. my mothers from new 2009 panda with 60thou now orange now turned green but cheap as chips shite box (about £6k or so new i think), for the last five or so years since retiring has done next to nothing and the last two years or so managed under 200miles, this is not a what I would say is a cared for car. When the odd time it had been borrowed it is definitely driven with the gusto of joyriding with no sympathy for what few miles would have been put on it. No real preventative measures other than I replaced a weakened battery last year, the tyres need replacement through dry crack and rot than through wearing out. the colour changing mould beast infested with so many spiders it would have made a good B movie, yet managed to fire to life, travel too and from to the total distance of about 60miles the old dear had to do without shiting its guts all over the place - the car I add, the old dear is another matter- lol. so if an “Italian” cardboard box manages that costed probably about 1/4 as much cope better, Japan engineers needs to look at themselves in the mirror and wonder.

Ive got two, both draper I got on sale at different years. one is a 3/8 - 1/4 drive (goes up to 60 or 90nm I think?) that I use for chain,brakes the small to medium stuff think it might just do a cbf125 axle? a half drive think goes above 200nm? for bigger bikes needs like front and rear wheel axles, car wheels etc. The amount of swearing and anger to stab the mofo with a rusty spoon who worked at a dealership who tightened bolts on way too tight on a golfs airbox, oil filter pretty much everything…. while at rite bike Bradford/leeds the mofos never even looked at a wrench let alone used a torque version, I have to assume they just used the wind.

Better than any Honda rebel any day.

Id zip tie them to the relevant side of the swing arm.

Yes and no. Price isn’t bad, it fits and will last longer than the bike, its a deep roar type of sound with this brand. its uk road legal apparently, with a baffle , for MOST mot tests, i suspect it will be fine but doesn’t hold or have a e5 mark…curious. depends if that is a big deal to you, insurance or if you travel to foreign lands….

The word of advice if your very unsure with tightening, place a simple mark with a sharpie on the bolt and case with a arrow to left to loosely or righty to tighty look as you see it from underneath perspective. to tighten go in the loosey direction until it drops or notch towards a full turn (as the tread drops to engages the direction starting point), then go rightly tighty. this is good for the thread when to engage, a lot less likely to strip or cross thread.

Fooking Torque wrench it…as a good code of practice, torque everything.

For sure if your still using the bike by all means put the shite ones on but if you have the original it’s got to keep the original bodywork when you sell it! A tlc or tatty is worth way more! some people are good with bodywork and you can’t replace the original with a Chinese copy mould and expect it to be the same!

Id be looking at exact fits. are we talking end can, mid section or complete system? you could do the small enterprises, fuel, worx, SP etc, then Remus, scorpion etc then getting to more money, like arrow, apkapovic

Sizes maybe correct but is the spec of load, speed and stresses it has to correct? If it can’t be confirmed consider it not up to the job! A sudden collapse of a bearing or two on a bike is a very serious problem.

If the first bit happened after the second part then yes, it’s junk. Sounds like the shell has deformed and oval it from the impact, it’s a thermoplastic type so the shell may look ok from a qyuick glance on the outside but really it’s fooked. after that accident you should of scrapped it there and then. sizes vary hugely from model to model let alone manufacturers, a shoie large maybe a ls medium and a caberg maybe a xcp….are you a round, square, oval or triangle head? Wider at the top or the jaw line? Long nose or jaw? So many types so difficult to say what is good or not for you? Id avoid online shops for this- go visit a huge stockist like Sportsbike shop or J and S Accessories to name a few. Hjc are very good and fitment is quite accommodating for most heads. personally I’m an ex hjc medium, arai medium/large but currently on a shoie medium but the small was just a bit too tight. Agv are just terrible for me bites at the front of my head and face… wife is shark xs and small hjc. daughter is ls2 large, hjc small or medium depending on model. you get the idea. New helmets only have to conform to these new regs from January 2024(in areas who use ECE helmet regs only – so no US or Japan) and even then, old ECE 22.05 helmets will still be legal. It's only new helmets on sale that will have to be 22.06 from that date on.

If I didn’t have the Suzuki I’d be very tempted. Its a peach.

Gov.org - mot checker - all you need is your plate. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Throttle body shouldnt need removing just for simple cleaning though id be very surprised if a little bit of dirt will be your sole issue with what you describe. What level of service has this bike done? id try to stick with the basics first. id be checking the fuel filter, it will be either one in the tank or better an external one, remove it and see if its mint and clean? Sometimes the filter prolapse internally, when you try to as for fuel it sucks seal. have you check that none of the pipes from the tank have kinks or trapped? Id also see if you have a vacuum problem on the tank. Open the fuel tank, does loads of air rush in? Close it and try to start the bike, if it starts but does shortly afterwards, open the tank again does it repeat? If yes then a blocked hole or pipe is the problem. if not then more likely a filter or something down the line needs looking at. check your getting spark and some form of compression

I still would blame Honda for it…they put it on there, the car should be viewed under most circumstances or not, hell that’s why the test them is 50+ and -20c temps, most don’t live like that but it’s tested for one example. Sounds like a cop out and reminds me of with the old Alfa/fiat selespeed bs and the one from the Germans, same problem but it was slated and under question. should it be a serviceable time line part? If it’s that essential then it is, why isn’t it? its an oil pressure valve unit only a few things screw them up, poor oil, wear, shite units, lack of service or unknown Early Noise/engine driveablility issue. pretty shit if its had little use to wear out yet failed miserably!

Where ever you place your foot naturally is more often than not the correct one (unless we are talking track or off riding etc) , the lever is in the incorrect place for you. even new boots if you can’t lift it up enough that’s not necessarily the boots (unless you bought flat tracker boots) and feet naturally rotate upward because that’s how we walk with a rotating ankle. pointing the feet downward is harder to do and the boot will resist that too, so if your managing to down shift well it’s not the boots. even if the pegs were adjustable and set really high, then the lever would need adjustment too.

Yes what ive/we’ve all been saying, The focus point is very narrow compared to filiment bulbs, which is the beam . which is also why they are terrible for quoting an actual accurate lums and kelvin, unless you talking PROPER industrial bulbs. case in point- most industries (and pet trade) still use fili bulbs for very accurate light reproduction (d65, tl84, cool white, warm white, uv etc), consistency, and no they don’t last years (shouldn’t do as they should be replaced after X time as they do degrade over time if), aint cheap and the bulbs dont come from b&q….one of the tools in my every day use. same with tv monitors, the most accurate ones aint LEDs…the only thing most LEDs do are die not together inthough they are grouped together nor consistently.

I know which id rather watch at work and fail!