RideWithStyles

Welcome! plenty of them about, they might eventually make themselves known, when they remember what to do on pc/phone to find the forum first. oh the stories, complaints and comparisons you can share.

I get mine from local stockers, SBS, the visor shop, demon tweeks etc.

Hello Falcon. Welcome back to the UK and the short break . nice bikes, TGT will be a laugh. oh and uve probably worked it out, the weather and the roads hasn’t improved since.

One helmet, 1 pin lock and 2 visors. pinlock is clear and is attached to the clear visor. for summer and very bright days it is tinted. Most good tints (apart from the absolute black from reputable sellers are ok most of the time for the usual spring and summer use.

Our work has them, when they go in stages like that, it’s junk, better to just replace them whole unit.

Second on stu’s post of sidi, the best money spent and saved a fortune of not having to replace them! still use the first pair i bought over 17 years ago. wife would go through a pair every year or so, eventually saw the light and got some too.

First of all whats your budget and what do u want? can only, half system, full system, de cat, sports cat, road or non road legal.

Unfortunately it appears correct, it’s been like that for a long time, Aftermarket suppliers or goods still fall into the sale and goods act. From what I remember about it, the reason being notice of Eu leg,d went out listing its intention as it had been challenged about it especially the car world, thing is it only considered the car trade as most other industries or markets represented/orgs etc did not turn up, apart from Triumph and a few others in the segment who said have the argument it was because biking is dangerous, so easily to be harmed through poor service, fragile machines, unique,and so few proper mechanics blah blah…for the interest of the owner/rider it is they have it serviced by them for their safety. so everyone else thought it would be blanket beyond the cars as the argument was won against them but that’s not how it worked out…much like road regs and layouts for motorcycles - nobody there to tell them, they don’t consider it. Because of that it bikes, vans were considered more specialised/industrial in that field apparently. triumph is very stead fast and stubborn in this regard to solely protect themselves and earn continuous income for them/dealer so it is still in their right legally. Its clearly marked in the manual and their conditions, Authorised dealers must service the bike to maintain the warranty they offer. Hence the car one’s normally say something like “to maintain the peak performance, safety and compliance of the vehicle as intended” not “to maintain or will void the warranty”. even others argued the toss when it was said, tried and failed… triumph/dealer may sway to some degree, depending on what or why and maybe within very good reason of keeping your custom but by right they wouldn’t have to. The Competition Act 1998 (Motor Vehicle Agreements Block Exemption) (No. 2) Order 2023 states that manufacturers of Powered Two Wheelers (PTWs) are not required to honor warranties if the vehicle is not serviced by an authorized dealer. To be honest most bike manufacturer warranty is only two years, for most its two-two and a half visits, most will never see a valve check in 4or so years (unless it certain Hondas or RE’s) plus most are pcp for 3/4yrs, so the rub is do it for a better return…maybe? so if you can splash on a shwanky, and do some term generally speaking its not well out of daftness of labour cost, particularly in comparison to the car world. last I was told many years ago with a lower tier German brand dealer up in the poor north it was over well £150+vat ph labour, Oh and their own branded oil at mid spec £75 +vat per LTR, spark plug at £25-50 each, £100 just to plug a computer in the footwell to reset the trip and clean memory, budget Italian was half that. if you was to buy used that didn’t have a warranty then no problem diy, if you get a warranty (free or paid) with the dealer, let them do it as its less bs sh1ttery for them to wriggle out of.

Think about it. if they want it they will nick it anyway, more than likely it’s an opportunity scum wants a joy ride. Or without a van because even a broken bar will not batter an eye lid over if they put it in the van to nick the bike. If its got a decent immobiliser the likly hood it’s not getting sorted by the road side while they nick it anyway. That would be at the garage to strip it down/off. You or someone does: tries to break the steering lock which is generally quite weak in most bikes. but yet it breaks the bar. A car-wall rub/push into it. It breaks. A simple low speed or no speed roll/drop/slide. It breaks. if you do a wheelie or stoppie (purposefully or not) land it not too well. It breaks. Jar of pot holes. It breaks. Force of a tank slapper.it breaks. you see that happening when it’s not particularly designed to break off so you make it do it? all many many miles from home! Then having to wait Many hours for the recovery truck and the drive home or at best pushing it with one less bar to balance it…probably falls over again on the haul and snaps the other side off plus extra damage, Then trying to push a bike without any bars…. now in ss300 even on a controlled environment of track riding it back with the bar snapped off is taken with a very dim view with officials. so to do that on the road I’m sure a copper would definitely throw the book at you and don’t even get me starting if you hurt someone because you couldn’t or wasn’t in control of the bike… id rather it build properly that can cope and not have sacrificial parts (its bad enough if levers go) so where it’s not actually needed, no thank you.

i know a few gens ago pretty much everything can go through the jacks controller, just giving more power if its separately linked to a power source. with vests and gloves, vest had the block connector under the arm pit and you had to buy a cables from that to the glove, controller of the vest as shared the load, so vest set as 100% or high would send something like 75%max to the vest and the rest to the glove. Mid was 60 and low 45 and so on unless you ran the glove direct to the battery which case you could get full power if the gloves had its own or separate controller. The jacket (earlier ones) was the same but the connector block was at the cuff instead just like veracocha said, load was more and the distribution was better as the jacket had more and better panels (plus heated neck) so needed bigger fuse and couldn’t run a portable battery as the tech hadn’t moved to where it is now to better made and efficient panels but the later and up to date ones can. Progress at last. Their manual was very good at explaining and showing how it worked or what you needed if you wanted to go through the possibilities of options, even giving you loads of different fuses just incase you did do. how the very new ones are I don’t know. we have the two different older gen’s and even on a naked bikes with sub zero wind blasts, at speed and jacket with therm liner mid is enough in most cases. i wonder peatear if youve confused them with your enquiry?

Nope terrible idea.

3M stuff is good. Also industrial sticky backed Velcro, buy a half meter length, replace the small cutting every year.

Make and model of shelter if applicable, what type of shelter(at least dimensions). What paddock stand , what is the chain and lock? How many keys?

P1ss pots and These ones (jet?):

Faulty mic most likely, Buy the kit as i mentioned in the other post then you’ll know.

Great work! Its looking mighty nice .

Id probably buy the kit anyway as wires, mics, connectors are a weak points in any system like that.

Fair but 4 is abit flawed? so say they just want to see if its actually is as advertised/pictured? Before the rope someone in or faff with trailers Or hire etc. Especially in winter or cold? Maybe it was just a convenient time to see it but couldn’t set up the end part yet? While there Just a skim through the paperwork see if att the dots add up. if it satisfies them then they could collect it on a agreed date? sign receipts, dump money in hand or bank, hand key(s) over, sign everything over online. been done that way before. for some people just not having the option there to just buy there and picks it up sets them up for a level head set rather than feel well ive set up all this shit and wasted money and time but I’m not convinced it’s all to be but I’ve but much into this particularly if another was lined up but probably gone…..some sellers aint the best at it btw.

If it was bought from a seller (dealer or actual retail seller) and it didn’t come with the kit as it should be, ask them for it or send a new kit with the clamp and you can return your old one.

KEIS FEATURES Central Power Hub: Got other KEIS kit? Connect your KEIS garments together using the included output sockets in the cuff of both arms and inside the waistband of any jacket, vest, or bodywarmer Dual Powered: All KEIS products can be powered either via a KEIS portable battery pack or using a vehicle supply lead which comes included with many items including Jackets, Vests, Bodywarmers, Gloves and more Instruction manual, its central power hub, power controller. yes dont use that jacket controller for the gloves, only the jacket, either use no controller or one from the gloves it’s self. You may need to buy two short connectors that connects to the sleeve cuff to the glove.

What motorbike related fads did/do you like, dislike, want to return or never? I never got the idea of camo jackets and especially Camo pants Particularly the bright garish ones that seemed more common among the Suzuki owners (+france) when I was younger. strangely it’s been two years now on my Suzuki and I’ve seen this: and thought….yes, i should.

. 147gta, 166s 3.2 super. Definitely .

So your use to fixing stuff. I’m an older era Honda and most Alfas fan by the way.

To be honest I think its relative. what type of person at contact is like, what they seem like when face to face. As a buyer, is it a nice enough area, house seems ok, car, garage, seller pleasant enough, ask a few questions about the bike and their history with it, any niggles straight up stuff, see if any spidery senses get triggered…most buyers are flippant about small things especially of the price is right if they are honest about it buying it. if you have a ratter/shonker with suspicion of its condition and your asking for top wack then ull more likely get a buyer wanting to me sure its worth it. if its honest price for it viewable state, and everything lines and paper work is good, meh. At the end of the day they could test it and it fails at something 100miles down the road after buying it anyway, unknown to you or they. if its abit old, a bit used, but seems all there, some or little history and they have a well known issue that can’t be bounce tested and it haddnt been sorted recently, depending on the price. maybe a quick test on the back at worse with strict instructions on what you want them to do and why. if its quite new, mint, load of history and recent service with a reputable report for it then take it on its value. for the buyer the risk can be high but losing out completely? fair to lower if bought wisely. the seller the risk is high as it could stolen from the test ride, no payment, insurance risk with no proof or potential return of anything good to them. a good one is to get local garage to mot, service and give a report on it just before selling it, might cost you a few quid but at least it would be within reasonable documentation of its condition and trustworthiness while the garage is only a phone call away to confirm. personally I’d just go with what you feel comfortable with/you see as risks and stick to it. If they don’t except your conditions of say none test ride without …… then they can look elsewhere where.