RideWithStyles

I would second buds and Muldoon. as for the benelli leoncino (I had the 500 for four years and 20thou miles so I know a good bit) it’s a nicer and more classy looking bike (normal) compared to the loud teenage cap backwards and chav talking of the bn. only gripe is as like with any Chinese bikes (even a premium one) especially the cheap ones the usual of rust under the paint and infesting the bike even before the its first registration. metal and welds are cheese, paint is atoms thick but it was a nice colour of red. the engine even as a new design has a design flaw that vibrates the crap out of it when it eventually loosens up. fogging of the clocks and headlight. electrics are abit sub par - not fun when your 120miles away bike goes full disco meltdown with all the lights including the indicators and confusing the fook out of everyone with a misfire… normal mechanics won’t willingly work on them, parts are difficult to get hold or or no longer stocked (like even a year after its release) even if your a dealer so a private buyer has little chance and doing a eBay scam buy is questionable. most normal sellers like sportsbike or wemoto etc dont really have or want to sell parts for them. the bikes value will be a hell of a lot less if you can find someone who has no idea of what it is or getting themselves into. on the value, looks good now as it’s cheaper but it will defo screw you later. New benelli was £5k, dealer and garage service had loads of trouble with it, like new condition as I really looked after it and got loads of claims in for parts and things just before the warranty expired, 4yr old sold for £2200 and that was a real struggle to sell. used cbf125 4k miles on it bought for £1700, used condition mixed service but always serviced, not one trouble with it other than a battery, sold it 7 years later as a 13year old bike with around 16k, £1200 was fraught over between two people and a garage on day one! was snapped off my hands with no haggling, could of got more if not the same as what I paid for it moons ago! Parts are plentiful and cheap, i couldnt get it below 100mpg try as I might. as the thought it was slow, the only things managed to beat me was a m3 “on it” risking it while I wasn’t and other bikes with quite larger cc’s. I’m not a Honda fan and the bike wasn’t mine but rode it plenty enough so I’m not rose tinting it for you but it was the better bike even if it was used, older, 38hp less, didn’t looks special. so if I was to recommend owt it would be the a cbf (or Yamaha/suzuki/kawa) over the Chinese or Italese…. if you wish to out do your mate, just make the wiser choice! It great even many years down the road of do u remember that piece of shite you bought….how shite? how much money did u loose? How many times was it in the garage, how many parts did they have to replace? How many days of your life was wasted on it Etc, never gets old…

Hi. You do know ktm are in very serious money trouble? With the highlight of reliability and poor decisions as to why they are in the state they are in. and the key word is “some owners” so doesn’t necessarily mean you will do, get a test ride first and you make that decision.

One other note is to check the lever, mount, its bolt and nut also the handle bar if it’s true as they aren’t strong (especially if drop it again.) youve ground off a decent amount of ally reasonably high up, with a very long and soft lever this can affect the mount and bolt as they would have taken some twist/lifting force as it contacted and continued along the road… the other check is the gear lever, as that can get pushed closer to the case because the peg gets folded up. check all - at least you didn’t have the cbf! other wise you’ll be doing the the side panel etc along with broken lugs. trust me the wife fell foul such with diesel on the exit of a round about.

Wow great opportunity and good luck! .

Other than being plastic not much different to a regular car body shop sort of way. If it was me as it’s not a safety issue I’d leave it till your ready to sell it, sod law says you’ll paint it up and do the same damage or somewhere else. as you say a stark reminder of your fook up that could of been worse… Take the mud guard off, Clean, sand area needed, clean, smooth sand, clean, prep, clean, spray meticulously fine and lightly, blend to the original, clean, very fine smooth out if rough, clean, lacquer, smooth, polish, clean…you get the idea.

Yet Rationalised the flaw by the maddest person here . should of gone with 1 much easier to improvise. .

Sounds not much different from our own motor/car theory test. the book is probably decently large and comprehensive enough of information much like our own again but which questions and video you have to test your knowledge will be variable. does it stop accidents? Not on its own as you can still mess yourself up on one as its down to skill test which is what they need to do next with a mod one sort of style test aswell like we have, that might help some people out?

gauges aren’t very accurate at higher speeds on small capacity cheap bikes… Say no different to the others. I wouldnt get to hung up over it as a 50cc is only a bit fast than bicycle but a 125 can burn off a normal car with the right rider and mind set up. until late this year I spent regular time over the last 7plus years on a 125 over my old bikes I have/had 500 (46hp), 600 (100+hp) ,650 (77hp),955cc (150+hp) and i never had a downer about it it was fun extracting every last bit of it. I could still do weel over 70 quite easily unless it’s a really steep hill (a gearing change helped here with this bike) with that one only had 8hp (out of the factory) and 5 gears ,so a super fit 125 with 15hp and an extra gear will be very easy. if you think I’m bs look on Yt for bike world- Chris (ex racer) had a long term Suzuki sv650 with sub 100hp- and pitched it against super cars for a drag race. honest power make you lazy, bigger bikes are pain in the arse most of the time with less in return for potentially get you into more trouble than with the Police. so what I would do is concentrate on getting you skills of proper riding (real world riding so your less likely to kill yourself or enjoy riding for longer) and learn to fixing the bike rather than prick about in a manner many may view as antisocial/yobness which for clarity im not saying you are but just that we all have it against us from the eye of many as it is.

Some Old even jap bikes had this habit designed into them for leeway and user friendliness at the factory. if you have COMPLETELY throughly cleans every thing inside and out, replaced the consumables (fluid, seals, rings) on the caliper, hoses, mc), sure your not getting any micro leaks where air can get in but liquid cannot and your 100%sure you’ve done it correctly then the only way is to change the hard ware. have you checked the discs and there seating to make sure they are Clean? Is there dirt or old thread lock under the bolt that it has contact with, has a bobbing corroded,loose or too tight? Is the disc true? Is the mc getting tired? Is the spring and seal good and correct? Is the hose and joints good? lots of things to check and difficult to see exactly when taking a posters viewing.

Because the licence system dictates it….

Then they think having and looking after a human being is a great ideat , then the next step into adding another problem to society for everyone else to put up with.

Hope it goes well either way. not been in hospital for 70years? Tough as old boots, respect. Wow, I don’t remember the last time we hadn’t had to visit a hospital for anything in under 70days .

Different welders mig and tig for example are better at different jobs/metals. If they ain’t set up correctly by the user it’s gonna be a load of time for shite as they say.

This is one, as with the collar. Yes SD is correct Fliddles, you ain’t getting them out like that. Plus youd need abit of stud to grip to. best way is to use time (a lot), penetrating oil (a lot), gas heat (a lot), shock treatment with a socket jack hammer (some) or a hammer with a socket that has contact with the bolt and case at the same time which hit the socket and the shock is sent to the bolt (but not directly hit the stud with the hammer to bend/snap it) and to the case which helps the thread. if you have a welder you could weld a nut to what is left of the thread as low down as possible to give some leverage and strength. the right one is pretty much near the drill and retap job at this point but id still try the way at the top first as it may surprise you.

2) Although you can't see it on the video, there wasn't much of a change in injector timing between cold and warm, which surprised me a bit. But the bike didn't seem to run any better or worse as it warmed up so I don't think this is significant. timing shouldnt to much wont when cold or hot only on load. 3) Also not on video, but I did try dropping to around 1100rpm and the bike would cut out, as it did in the previous video. However there was no significant change in readings that suggested a failed reading. 4) I checked for fault codes. There were some old codes which I deleted and no new codes were generated during today's running. 5) CO Trim is shown stuck at +128 As I've mentioned in previous posts, point (5) was what I was expecting, based on how fuel trim works on ECUs that I've looked at in the past. However (of course there has to be a However when things are looking promising), I then did some research to see what fuel trim reading I should be expecting ... And, from what I've read, it's now my understanding that this ECU doesn't monitor O2 levels and then adjust fuel trim accordingly. Instead, there is a potentiometer in the ECU that can be adjusted to provide a fixed trim / override to the fuel map. I now believe that the reading of 128 that I'm seeing is what that trim is currently set to - the ECU simply responds to that trim, it doesn't control it. I suspect that the trim can be adjusted from -128 to +128. Yes it’s guessed /assumed program, if there is no lamba probe in the exhaust, it cant check, more likely it’s using a different parameter and setting to go by. Where does this leave me? I don't think it changes my next planned step, which was going to be to clean the injectors. You could clean it but they weren’t brilliant for atomisation even when new. My only guess re that trim reading (and it really is a guess) is that someone has previously tried to compensate for dirty injectors by turning up the trim level. However, there's a significant flaw in this theory - the original factory sticker that covers the adjustment pot appears to be untouched. yep sounds like a red herring to me, it could be more likely something else hence the high trim as to a small silly thing is not letting the bike do its thing… So my conclusion for today is that the sensors all seem OK and that it's right to suspect the injectors. I've got an injector cleaning kit that I hope to try this week - I really don't know whether that's going to be successful but it's worth a try and hopefully my experience will help someone in the future either way. I'll report back ...

My benelli did have the rust (all under the paint), terrible welds and poor metals plus a load of other problems, from the factory then the replacements 2nd and 3rd years on…..

To be honest some/most of these so called organisations are single minded spear headed by and or an egomaniac individual with no idea how one side or the other works on getting any traction into those ideals for the parties or legal side to give a shit….the actual answer is they (uk/eu/world) dont need to and don’t want to as a fundamental reason, so it’s a fruitless mission for the few that the more ask for by the majority don’t want.

00 Should have gone to spec savers…

Back to square one…was it fine before you changed the battery? If so is the wiring comprised or have you blown a fuse? Check them and come back to us.

As a general rule lithium like high rates of charge and loads of “exercise” to work with, so ok to drain them but the only bug if you can’t charge them hard enough they fing hate you and more likely to die. For storage Not to fully charge them- 25-75%. Nic met hrd drys are a little less fussy only they ok with little and often charges, the only thing with them if you store them is to do it fully charged.

I miss a triple (if I could afford and my stubborn mental attitude could push to it again ) or an para twin if my medical problems would allow over an inline 4.

not to say anybody is wrong or their experience is not worth mentioning. To note just how each or any item like a bike, lawnmower, strimmer etc (though admittedly other than the bike they have very little resistance and simple devices so those could away with less than perfect conditions). new or used will be different, carbs injection, design, condition of unit inside and out including seals or rings etc, contamination and or state of fuel, use prior and storage (second biggest factor), season conditions endured, where in the country/world, consumables used, services when and how long ago. A lot of variables for how one may or not struggle more than others, so all mentioned is a useful suggestion or guide of what you could do differently next time if you are unfortunate to encounter the problem. .

Sounds like another load of unnecessary faffing (or twisted shell/components ?) to do if you have to be that aggressive with it to do the sole purpose/feature that you bought it to do….maybe it needs reset its mechanism if possible or taken back?

Its not the glue but the eps layer (styrofoam) and shell that degrade and if its really bad then the threads and security pin for the neck straps that are the worry. agree. the helmet can be the most expensive of your set. but take in mind a helmet price of a£600-1000 doesn’t or will instantly make it a better one than a £100-400 one soley by its price alone nor safety.

so do you believe a politician or a police officer or a doctor without question? They are one, most have some form of qualification, they do it all the time and paid for it so they must be correct all the time? Dont have to be a full bore scientist to methodically figure out how to conduct a test for it to be throughly well done to prove something is good or terrible, much like you don’t have to be a full on mechanic to change a wheel, oil etc or to find out if something (tool or products etc) works or not if you do it but to have a little thought and understanding goes along way. shall I also mention another person that you could or might aswell very undermine? John from Bennett’s social, he goes about it in a similar way, does really state it out and the small details but that is how you show the reason to the results and understand how and why or what could be improved, rather than just say “I did some shite and this is fooking shite and this is be best thing ever”, that can very well be put down as unhelpful, terrible con, naive or an insult to the viewer’s intelligence.