RideWithStyles

Only if it’s properly chemically made and designed to do that correctly (with hygiene specific standards) from the start…, petrol and other chemicals for non living things consumption or contact is a totally different thing.

Id go with Tiggies suggestion primarily. there is one other sure fire way but I’ll have time to kill before commitment to your bike?why not do a test? Research the best you think will be correct. Get jars or reuse cleaned jam jars make sure it’s got a good seal or do your own. Pour one with mostly with E10 and pop the pipe in and seal. The other with nothing but the air and seal as a control unit, leaving a third one just lying around the house/garage. Leave over the winter months (but check and top up the e10 one if required. then before you wish to get you bike up and going in spring? Check the outer,9internal diameter and other aspect of the pipe e10compared to the controlled jar and garage one? No difference then you can be pretty sure it should be serviceable over spring and summer of that year at least regardless.

Nothing wrong with the choice of the Honda cg to be honest, good choice. Wife’s was a cbf125 2011 (newer with first time injection but based off the same bike ) with about 4k on the clock (£1700) and served very well over the many years we had it. buy on condition, careful ownership with as full service history as possible if your buying but don’t know what your looking out for. change oil every 700-1000miles unless it’s burning through which the engines do. These ones will have an internal oil strainer which requires the right side engine case to come off to get at. Good gaskets are a must and the bolts as not all the same size and length so don’t mix them up. They hold very little oil so check the level every second fill up if used with intent/aggression, it will probably still be a dipstick so dont screw the dip in but place its first thread ontop of the case to check oil level and keep it at the upper level. Dont need owt fancy of expensive, just cheap semi synthetic ok will do. The single front brake piston should be strong to a raise the rear up for a stoppie…certainly shamed toki that was on Kawasaki 600s with two calipers totalling 12pots of the era. certainly better than Chinese trap that people fall into.

lol. As far as biscuits let alone beer/whisky concerned, if I can’t fall into the biscuit tin/next watering hole you’re too far away . Astro just between you and me…..looking around and whispering- I’m near there but not “in it” hence why its tagged at a Burger King .

As the others said. Good to get a refresher beforehand just incase any bad habits (that fail a test) is scrubbed out. just remember your checks before setting off anywhere and while on the road, lifesavers, road positions, and just being safe even when muppets are about, that’s the most important part that is drilled into you and what they want to see of you. good luck.

Doing a cbt on manual or even auto sort of covers both sides of what you can do afterwards weirdly. do cbt - pass on auto and can be allowed to ride a manual with no intuition or owt afterwards which is what happened to the wife when she started out so it was up to me then to teach her how to ride a manual, bike and how to handle it . she did well with extra tutoring (from me) with a few hiccups and drops, got there eventually but holy shite is an over sight and a short cut of the system personally I don’t agree on. so while it can be done that way doesn’t necessarily mean it’s right or correct for every or anyone. Riding an auto and manual do require slightly different ways especially with slow speeds. Well one question pretty much answers the other. if you want a cruiser (or near as the style goes) from 125 up to what ever capacity you want to end up at? how many manuals are there? A lot. How many autos are there for that type? VERY VERY FEW if none at all…. if you can drive a manual car then you have a rough idea on how it works, its just they’re more sensitive (shorter biting points, higher revs required etc), So a slight adaptation is required. Working balance and getting individual body parts to do fine movement (different ones too) at the same time. same with road use and how you behave is roughly the same but a few tweaks needed. Least you can learn from and while at the school to see where/if you need help rather than screwing it up and potentially getting yourself in the shite on the roads by your self trying to work out what you might be doing wrong while a hgv or other vehicle being not attentive bearing down into you, if its not working out and your DEFINITELY better off with a auto you know there and then without wasting a large chunk of your own money and time as you jumped a step and bought a bike before you should of. also goes to show how do you know the bike is right or working correctly if you haven’t even ridden one yet? First rule dont trust nor take any dealers word for granted…. If you want/need to stick to autos, Big scooters 400-800cc are pretty big in size (loads of uses) for your human biometrics, pretty quick off the mark and will handle normal road uses very well, people see them as big old school bmw slush boxes. the other option is to go down less adaptable and que less trodden paths (expensive and far fewer selection of normal as possible bikes) with automated transmissions.m, likes of Honda African twin, mv,

Speaks great volumes of how your viewed and im an not , joking aside great you got out and about. nothing wrong with the bike it’s perfectly fine, more of a case did you choose wisely for your individual use case? Nakeds- yes you will get the full brunt of it thats to be expected, even a small screen/visor will help some what (with a racing tuck) but how big to be effective and safe will be dependent on a bikes design set up will be the limiting factor or lots of metal work to be added. rain mode very much dulls everything down far too much. over protective mother setting to 11. Most of the time makes things feel worse even in adverse conditions, imo. as nick and bonio says: in winter at speed a naked bike can be a challenge of weather protection. A good heated vest/jacket makes a big difference to comfort. tank bag for small thing and urgent need to access them (phone, keys, cards etc) tail pack for slightly bigger things and a top box for bigger and longer term uses of fit and forget. So eventually , your finding out what was said about your choice of can purchase . more pics would be appreciated.

Nik wax is the generally the best water based one readily available anywhere, not bad in any real regards but doesn’t excel. rainexs “glass/car” one is really good but not to be used on visors as it attacks the plastics by making it brittle rather than melting it so might look ok but really will affect the visor when you really need it. their water based one isn’t as good and trying to get rid of marks and streaks is a freaking mare. as capt says it’s gonna happen (soft cloth is good) so best way to clear water is to twist your head to each to to use the wind to push the water off, though not very effective at 20-30mph granted but little and often is better, and after a while the grime will build up and not allow the water to Brad up but merely spread so soft cloth in pocket might be just good enough. scratches and chips will happen and so changes to visors every year or two is good practice, more often if you add damage to it.

Just that the buckles are very much a weak point and potential flaw in their design. helmets come in different “shell sizes” more options the the better as cheaper will have less of them and expect the inside foam and padding to take the gap up. So more expensive helmets (shoei, arai etc) will make more shell variations so Xss shell size will go up to a xs only, a small will go up to a medium size , a large might go upto to a xxl and vice versa. Which is more expensive to make. where as a cheap brand will only make one or a few shell sizes to accommodate all and fill with extra foam or padding which cheaper but not always better. So thats one reason to many more cost difference and its not down to greed… Thats ok it’s expected, it’s a learning curve weve all had to cross and learn from, we’d like to make sure people don’t fall into it and get put off. great there are enough people on this forum willing to share and help when you need. might be good to just post a question of the next purchase or advice of any kind on here before committing so save yourself from an potential pit fall, better to ask and take on, rather than be told or find out that it was a mistake is my view. dont get me wrong some things and different brands in motorcycling are very equally good (like tyres and brakes etc) but that will be just down to “a personal preference” rather than either strictly a terrible or dangerous product.

NC 92’s…Wonderful era of bikes and nearing the “last of the greats” Honda made imho. youve opened yourself up for a world of possibilities to spend time at the garage and an a parasite on the account. if after it warms with that id be checking the rubbers and plastics like hoses, rusty /shitty stuff in tank, carbs (and their diagrams) etc. with your lights and dropping out of things (after youve now changed the main component) relays etc, would be looking at whole loom and their connections, after that you’ll probably need to check closer to the specialist works like ecu connectors and boards, its an old bike now and degraded/corroded parts (even in sealed boxes) are to be expected.

Hi, thats the thing as even you put it buying one of those wrong helmets ( I refer to the untried, tested and often poor after sale support of the “brands name” and any of their products and not to the style of helmet), over say a budget but time served brand that still view customer support as a necessary part of the business like LS2, nitro, hjc many more their are etc. yes as SD says, should of gone to proper shop and most of not all should have backing from them. cos does it actually fit you well enough? Is the buckle (I’ll assume it’s one over the double D) is of worth while quality? Has it got cheap OTP padding that will sag excess in days rather than months or years? Is the shell far too big for your head and stator? You want to avoid having a bobble head or POP figurine size of helmet difference, it does matter. anyway you are where you are, best make the use of it. Ull probably need to look at other module helmets from other brands that are similar in style and size, take the risk of buying one and trying it out but this will really prove that you fell into the “buy once, pay many times” old saying, Including the helmet. seeming as you dont know if it will be a perfect fit id try to avoid the silicone sealed type of pin lock if you get the option. you can try potions but most are by far inferior to a pinlock, hit and Miss even coating and use (if you see and hate finger prints and smears you really will hate it) and requires regular re coatings every week or two at best if your using every day in winter. the pinlock “pins” on your visor should work on a cam lobe effect to get the insert to the correct shape/tension and contour to the inside visor, lobes pointing inwards will push the insert (middle) to be more flush and outwards to relax them (moved away). problem being with those foggy things is that if your breathing is not controlled enough you’ll be just sweating the crap out of you lower face which will get mank in no time or recirculating some/most of the CO2 your breathing back out, even thin very porous helmet chin guards of premium helmets suffer with this so recirculating old air very very much likely, if this does happen to you a simple neck tube hat pull up to and a little higher up you nose, is secure with you helmet strap and check padding which might be an option to look at available everywhere, cheap, washable, and in different fabrics and thickness for summer or winter use but by far more breathable both ways.

Must be very new, called a Honda gixxer .

Point to correct

If your meaning the abs ring and sensor? Correct but looks like a non abs unit so less faffing.

Both Fork caps height from the yoke much match.

Some do and some don’t. Should have a single hex in one side used to tighten the spindle, that hex sits into a grooved recess. Some are threaded at the far end of the axle into the lower sanction (no nut). some have a nut on the end,on the side face of the sanction. all be locked by either one or two small nip bolts below to grip the sanctions tighter.

As a brand they said they did, while Some national branches did (but VERY few) on the ground but really they didn’t want to do it, ud have to ask the one near you but I think your answer will be no. realistically they want to supply and fit so the get revenue but they will say they don’t want the higher liability with a little reward in income. just go a trusted fitter, even if it’s a mobile one, dont get too hung up with an exact tyre unless it a brand you know you definitely don’t get on with and just pay their supply and fit price. MOST of them time it’s better than fooking, fussing about over a few quid of money pinching that just stresses. if you shop with them to be known as “a regular and be “a nice easy going customer” then deals and so forth are more comming…

Ahhh husoi- Similar to my gsf, only the other way it has stepped rubber feet and a metal stepped plate attached to the seat you switch around to lower or raise it. Andy I’ll presume you just adjusted the preload And not any other mechanical devices or settings? to lower like that just because your shorter isn’t the way, That’s not what primarily for If that is what you have done? Even if you were to say your weight is 50-60kg let alone before adding luggage and/or a pillion , definitely not ideal. What you would have done is taken away what suspension travel you did have and made it more like a hard tail/chopper -the bike will be sat on its arse, feel like a barge, vague to handle, crashy at the rear etc. the suspension setting will most likely not be correct or certain not optimal for it’s designed use now, messed with the geometry, wearing the rear tyre and suspension out faster etc. some shock fittings have a longer threaded shaft attached to the top of the shock, shims or a variable collet to switch around that can be adjusted for such a thing. If the shock isn’t directly connected to the swing arm but through link bars (cantilever) then to change them to shorter ones is the better way to go, it isn’t perfect but way better than just said first hand. If you do this you’ll more than likely have to change (raise) the fork position in the clamps roughly the same amount you lower to get the balance of the bike even, unless you want to be riding a pan chopper. just remember to reset you preload adjuster to std.

Triumph do know how to make great bikes, and have been making good ones for many years, granted they have had hiccups over the years quite abit ago (who doesn’t? don’t even say Honda) but most of them problems have been somewhat under close control directly or part sources. Yea can be variables, particularly if the foreign labourers and factory where this model is built, doesnt have the customer own eyes watching the whole time, slacking, cutting corners, bodging, other issues (if you want to assume) don’t get addressed as quickly, so if you were really bothered about reliability issues with these newer manufactured models in this way I’d given them a good few years to iron out before I’d commit to buying one. Still better than the Chinese owned and made bikes though. if I'm being cynical.

If I was riding the bike first thing this morning as was going to be the plan, it would have been winter gloves and heated grips on 40percent minimum!. we’ll see what this mid day holds on to…

Its not “that old” of a thread so thats ok, others have been resurrected after many YEARS! . Nothing wrong to read and say a little appreciation to a good and useful thread that might help somebody else in a similar situation.

Sounds like it will. Dont know what your bike is so I’ll generally say . the cat does most of the sound deadening out of the usual three main parts of a system in the most modern bikes as std. A std oem exhaust will be second and closer matched to what the cat amount lowers does than say a aftermarket which most if not all does away with most of not all internal baffles and routing that the std. contrary to belief modern engines make more noises as they make more power but the difference is they have been engineered to dampen out as much as reasonably possible while the old ones did not. if the cat has a variable valve in it which is great to get around static testing but may just mask the problem and make your bike too loud on the “fly by testing” (Ducatis of an era were a prime example) and yes they do that and it’s at the marshals posts, if that was to happen it’s their choice if they say you can only go up to a certain rev and gear at anytime or just deny you use on the track but that is depending on how loud and how much baffling has been put on the beforehand….. During a static noise test a decibel testing device (which looks a bit like a mini metal detector) is held at a 45 degree angle half a meter away from the exhaust exit. For cars the engine is held at ¾ of maximum revs. For bikes it will depend on the cc and number of cylinders. The most common RPM needed for a static bike test will be: 7000rpm for a 4 cylinder 600cc. 5500rpm for a 4 cylinder over 750cc and 5000rpm for a 2 cylinder over 750cc. The general limit for most UK Circuits is a max decimal limit of 105db which is a standard club race limit but there are several circuits and specific dates with more strict regulations and therefore lower limits.

Headers on their own shouldn’t break the track day limit unless it’s a modern big Ducati (most now are at or more likely over the normal UK tracks) or some nobber with a inline four and a bean can excuse of an exhaust. decatting adds double quadruple points of stupidity and shame if you turn up thinking it will be fine “innit mate?” coz I bought stuff off…...

Took the bike to work so I could drop it off at the mechanic i use for its mot and other Shiite as and when he can fit it in. it rained many times during the morning and early afternoon . only to find out he had a personal appointment so shut up shop early after my work shift ended when I tried to drop it off . Friday it will have to be now….