RideWithStyles

Hi. Personally for financial reasons in your statement but buy the bike winter time (dec/jan) for the cheapest bike…I’d say if you really can’t use or store the bike where your accommodation is, where can you store it sensibly to accumulate easy insurance coverage and time in the mean time of low risk it can sit there to earn it easier like Parents, guardians, trusted friends? If not then wait till Feb or march.

Welcome and nice bike ,Who’s in the box we should thank by the way?

Agree with Stu, bender and other posters.

If you are young now then you’ll be affected by the change over but if your old/er then if wont affect you as much especially if you bought your “new and last bike” with your pension cashed in then that will see you through. 10-15yrs? Most car manufacturers supply for 15-25yrs for most common parts they say, generally . but then there is the 3rd party pocket lot that might fill the hole for a bit if it’s a popular model. Bikes manufacturers dont follow the same principles especially as the quantity of bike sales are a lot lower -Asians and Indian market scooters not including, some are better than others in older model support. They will go down then go up when “Only the finest examples survive” in someone’s collection.

Yea google gets to read it all the time…

Yep a garage queen. the other likely hood it wont be ridden is because a lot of parts will not be available anymore, so then much deviation from its original and mileage will greatly affect its value and appearance to the geeks…shame. Dont think too many modern bikes will be fondly missed or viewed as a game changer to appreciate vastly… probably the original mt07-9/10, bm s1000rr and the odd Ducati like the first v4,last v2 and the mono. then I wonder if parts will be available for these further down the line?

Wifey did the bike first then car, the only real difference is the greater space you use/need on the road, extra swing and space to do manoeuvre. lot less visual potential/awareness in the car due to the cage,pillars, head rests etc. less external noises and more space/capacity inside to get used to. getting use to the a lot shorter rev range and the exact gearing your taught to use is a note. more stalks to get use to and remember what they all do, especially if you have a car with different orientation. depending on the height and comfort level of the car it could feel like your going slower. Depends on the car, brakes and clutch actuation is different, springed pedal return clutch, and brakes can be very over servo’ed. Being use to and road smart before hand definitely speeds the learning process. driving a car is soooo much easier.

wouldnt that be “about 50 degrees”?

Yea defo a psychological tool factored to push you into buying or make you feel good/better about buying the same thing…

Tyre say made 19th week of 2021. So let’s say very late 21 or early 2022? Also Might be lucky to be logged on as advisory at a mot time? id just look at the mots mileage logs late 2021 and 22 and go from around their to what you are now.

Dealer in Italy? Wow theyll see a flush foreigner coming. well you could work it out inline to the mot date and mileage logged? so say it was fitted around two years ago between the two mots logs at 10 thousand miles just after a mot, your now at 14 thou so you’ve used half the life of the tyre in 4thou so you’ve got 4 more roughly speaking…. If you dont know when the tyre was take the rough details with the manufacturer date stamp on the tyre and minus at least 6months of its age. with those Bridgestones you should expect between 4and 8thousand miles - 10if your really lucky.

Apologies, I had thought/convinced myself it was a carbed version? Think I had another thread on my mind. but id definitely check the lower end too just because it would silly to do all this checking and work only for to miss the bottom side had damaged if self and properly destroy a core a short time later while in your hands, prevention is better than…plus if you pass on this bike it looks better to a buyer if it’s had work done so it can go the same/more miles again.

Have you actually measured the tread the whole tread depth all across the width of the tyre? . They look fine, good enough for at least another few thousand miles. If I was being very picky, might want to asses the rebound and preload?

Only consider them if they have the safety products you interested in if not go somewhere else. Most likely the jacket (upper to mid spine at best) doesn’t have a pocket for the protector you want, so especially if you want one with straps on which that is not how the jackets and that type of protector works as it is only as a stand alone product independent of outer wear. Nope don’t bother with a bike sales shop first hand but an actual apparel or clothing shops like I said before hand, have much more choice to see what will actually fit you for what your actually looking for not just is half arse not any where near what you want just because the shop only stocks a brand or selection in…if you dont you might as well not bother wasting your time and money on a product you wasn’t looking for.

Did suggest and state the compression is compromised first time round…Rather than go around the electrical which you went down beforehand and finally twice on a merry go round? . anyway- Looking at the marks on the bore and piston skirt, id be checking the pin,the crank and journals for wear and damage now, while you’ve got it striped / you’re at it. Then after all the new gubbins fitted properly checked out carb lines/jets, rebalance the carbs and see if it runs ok after that? if not then by all means recheck all the other suggestions if your “checks” were proper beforehand.

Right seriously go out to an actual proper shop like sportsbike or J&S etc to test fit… people think a full size is a set amount but really it’s all depending on what your spine length is, how wide is your ribs/hips dimensions are that make one thing comfortable or not… some makes will quote a plates as to what is they think is correct, but it’s all subjective. if you want coccyx protection (the small tail bone above/next to you bum) which if you fook that up is more than just a bit of a pain in the bum if you fancy sitting down) then you’ll need a longer or part that is designed for than but to some it’s too uncomfortable or bulky if the rest of your clothing doesn’t allow for it…. The 3do are very good and thin, if you ain’t bothered go forcefield bulky as fook but really chunky protection. Air bags generally don’t cover these over their normal back protector but these are very few.

Lay transverse along the pillion seat, attach straps front ones to the pillion pegs. the rear two around the grap handles.

wtf with toppy?? Hope his recovery is real quick. My brother had collapsed lung and broken ribs along with other injuries that left him in intensive care for weeks on end after an accident . i love but absolutely confused as to why bulgea tuned up on The kids/ pits narrow scooter on the super pole grid, and even he had to add his in Italian a humour to it. Toprak would have wheelies and stopped it!

Reasons for it to lose that much if no punchers is the valve leak and rim bead seat comprised.

You dont know about cameras? Abit likes eyes but they need understanding and telling what to do to get the effect of the user wants. The effect you can do to a picture is variable, doesn’t have to be, can be both or neither. that effect that the photographer has gone for, is a faster freeze focal point that makes it look like it’s moving faster and more dynamic that it really could be. even the spokes have a slightly moving look it it so it doesn’t look static (particularly blurred). Adjustable cameras settings, apertures etc can give you the sharp subject yet a out of focus background.

Good morning!

Carb, you could Try cleaning and I mean really clean the idle jet port/pathway. Most likely you’ll have to removed and strip them down and soak in carb or brake cleaner. While your there might aswell look at the other ones. After putting it back together you’ll most likely have to rebalance it.

Yes tyres have change since the terrible 200 series Dunlops! Like all michs they require a higher pressure to maintain their profile due to their natural soft carcass. Which makes them comfortable*. michs design complex tread designs after pilot road 2 and sports, these can affect how the tread wear pattern goes over time if they suspension cannot be changed to help address this. Michs have very good compounds which is why they are generally well known for good lifespans but if they don’t pay attention to their requirements you’ll wear them faster. Ive had many over the years in all seasons so for me i dont mind them, *the only negative is that they don’t talk as much as other tyres so you have to have blind faith that they are happy with the pace your going at. Apart from that id have them, Pirelli, Metz, Avons, etc over flintstones any day! Are BS a bad tyre? no I couldn’t say that just that they dont work the way I want or click with me, so you’ll need to working out what your looking for and need.

Most of the time they are drop fored, they dont take lightly to being bent back. You’ll have the heat the hell out of it first to at least soften it and make it a tad more malleable to give you the best chance. if you look them up, if you can link up the parts number? If they match they will be the same. Sometimes the similar model line up might share parts (cbf,cb, cbr etc)

Are we talking of a carbs or injection bike?