RideWithStyles

sorry to hear about that. ebay as is for project but you'll be selling it to a smaller potential buyers or if you have the skills/time revert it back to std to sell to recover more money/quicker. Nic is correct rake has been changed /off setted quite sharper. hence where the shockes are positioned infront thats roughly where the std rake would be. i can see what he was doing or to achieve, takes some effort and will to want to do that, like the stands, the shadow board and tidy area, obviously some back ground and good with his hands. good luck.

i agree that many ideas Honda comes up with are unnecessary Husoi. sorry i see now i was think like the suzuki jobs. so its a dual /combi braking, front also primes a single (extra) rear piston for what little/benefit use it REALLY does for the penalty it brings... depending on your view of how original, usefulness or cost but i still see the same thing, keep the hardware and mounting in place so you still have a front brake but blank it off or loop it back on itself, leave it non operational it not like a new bike with an abs pump that it needs to be mot'd with it. you still have a rear mc and caliper you could use your foot for the job of a rear brake. could be wrong but thats how i see it.

Great for her. at least if its a bike that low and wide its less likely to be truly on its side and pick up. technic is the way, not brute strength. mind you if shes not razzing around less to go wrong?

so its the anti dive system to bs if i understand correctly? you dont need that as all it does is push / adds more fluid to the fork valves. blank it off (maybe change the fork oil to a thicker grade if its non adjustable and your abit of a demon) and get a normal MC and pipe it to your caliperz.

is there another MC from honda model line up that could be just swapped over? after all its only a mc not a full job with abs pump and loads of other bs. really failing that why not an generic aftermarket MC?

for those that want connectivity but dont fancy attaching tour phone to a dock. https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/2362709#/27907,3203,1186 use the link at the bottom of Tmbf web pages.

not bad start id say as long its a runner. most Hondas & suzukis of that era are quite. high milers aint always a problem its the condition and its upkeep thats more important.

chain and sprocket should run true! carrier/crush is not seated correctly or very worn out. either way id give it back to them to actually do the job properly the second time around, for a dealership that's terrible.

its not the tyre. the wheel directly or the hub/bearing seat as the sprocket and chain is moving side to side along with the wheel!!!

if you know a good local car sprayer you could just ask them? for some pains at 40! .

It would be nice to give it a final big ride? . could be the same experience coz you never know? visit to a garage for fork seals, clutch, head gasket . Im no Honda fan boi nor particularly say a KTM is better but ohhh...just wait and see what fleck and other followers has to say about dissin the winged H and over the orange Ktoom . Im just toying! sure the journey will be interesting either way.

take to the Germ.

as suggested many times before "not" is a suggestion and a viable recommendation, so just because it goes against what you want to do, isnt just to make people look smart its sharing information to a question asked, so it is actually helpful as to the reason why rather than just ignore a question. films dont count as there full of bs and unless you're only drag racing or side car its not worth it nor a good idea in general. yes get greater loading cap and more mileage with the car tyre but a vt750 doesnt fall into that category nor need it. even a goldwing or a rocket doesn't need it. if you want different and a slightly better idea would be to just Slightly over size the tyre or get a stretch the crap out of one to thin side wall it as in "custom job" with a white wall, look to avon cobra chromes. well if its a mot fail then its definitely not a good idea, invalid insurance yada yada. getting a mot'er to turn a blind eye is very short coming and lands both of you (if not more so him) in trouble if you get found out, doing something that just screws yourself up is one thing but asking someone else would make me uneasy on a unnecessary mod, including if you have an accident that involved a innocent party. well if you do wish is carry on regardless then id choose the roundest (tallest& narrowest) profile (visually) car tyre you can, wouldnt matter too much on a manufacturer as your not putting much weight nor stress into the tyre itself rather than just to avoid cheap sub brand chinese....

Connect the red positive terminal on the dead battery to the positive terminal on the live battery. Clamp the black negative terminal on the live battery, but make sure you place the opposite negative clamp on a grounded and unpainted metal surface of your motorcycle. Typically, the chassis is suitable for this. Start the motorcycle with the good battery. Do NOT start the car. Allow it to run for a few minutes and then carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order they were connected. It’s important to place the negative clamp a safe distance from the battery because this connection often makes a spark and could cause a potential hazard. If your battery is a sealed Yuasa AGM battery, there’s almost no risk of fire, but keeping the negative clamp away from the battery is a best practice. if you have one of those lithium battery jumper packs (get a small one for like £20 at halfords etc) and use the same way unless it says otherwise.

Hi and congratulations. shed is a shed, not garage which is brick, metal door(s) and a very structured roof. if you keep searching for quotes the algorithm adjusts so it may have to add more. if you go to direct to a insurance (ie bennets etc) or a local broker or the bikeinsurer you may get better luck. some brokers can use the car insurance history as a leverage but at most will be 10% off, riding is total different aspect and risks to cars... Having dependants can take a tiny bit off but more often they see it as paying out to them. you could go down a different level/sub level of bike (i class a sportsbike 400- the one with full fairings, over the naked one a sub class) so does a naked bike similar reduce the premium alot? if so id just go that route to start with. the other is down to a 125/250/ old 300 but your gonna be paying out for them and losing some money there swapping out if you intend to stick to the 400 just afterwards? it really just depends on what your long term plan is. driving /riding when new is always more expensive, worse case think your just gonna have to bite the bullet.

Hmmmm. worring. should still have the sensor (a metal moving flat pin) that the side stand uses, other wise the bike will not start unless its been bodged or by passed for using it track side?

then it changes again (policy and fees) when you do pass as the policy has to change for the account of your licence. unfortunately learn to ride/drive is expensive but ownership of a vehicle is too.

rain forecast got it completely wrong, didnt get a ride out or clean the bike .

yep new clutch pack, check the basket case too.

oil (as in how much?) can be from it either being over filled or a blockage usually. if their is check engine, probably from you not putting something back on (wire or pipe) or damaged it when re fitting it. the other thing is to check the fuses.

good morning

yes tou have to be within a certain speed before and after this manoeuvre, its to simulate a car creeping out between two parked cars or a small junction.

as shep says. its a faff and expensive for everyone (including the gov as they have to pay for the whole setup which will take more than decades if ever to break even of any builds done) in regards but it does have a point and a real world reference that does sort of replicate but just in a safer manner. just saying tou can/did it out in the world is not enough or evidence. is you go around a changing radius (real world corners pitfall) to see if you have control and spotting skills. then as you gain speed again like to a straight road now to assimilate a car pulling/creeping out of a junction to you left (real world accident) at normal road speeds where you will not have time to stop (distance and time too short) yet to physically move the bike around the front of the car as you still have speed and movability might be more effective, (this i have had to rely on as a skill before) hence why birds/flys/ animals will more move than just stop unless its the last option. figure of eight is throttle, clutch, bar, body simultaneous control both sides as some will naturally have a good and weak side. in some ways a 50cc only makes sense in the inner city but everywhere else their a risk as their too slow with other flowing traffic so theirs the risk, 125 is a balancing act. prior to this point they are mostly protected for their own good but 17 year olds can go to college without any supervision, create life, drink (illegally), be left alone, live alone if they want/have to, make a lot of decisions for themselves....but still need to do things and learn if they havnt already of yep its a dangerous place the outside world that will screw u up. you could try to argue the point of the test but its staying as is so either get over it and work at it so you can enjoy biking or dont bother and miss out, its your choice. anyway to be productive, was your speed to slow to the test? was that due to coasting and being in a gear to high, hesitant to the section (as in worried), or just not looking/thinking far enough ahead? did you shut off the throttle before or mid manoeuvre which made the bike behave differently?

at least is sorta free. cover for the unexpected if you generally don't do much traveling, most of the time if its abit further they can take you further at a additional cost to yourself but most of the time its still cheaper than if you did it as a non member paying customer.

thats what i said. its not the power solely (unless the wiring is at fault in this case) as most of the machines at place i work at 400+ in a old building and thats way off the onsite substation, which makes our electricians pay attention when working on them. thats to refer to a previous post. ITS FRIDAY YEY!!!