RideWithStyles

Few things to try, might be one thing to two smaller ones creating a bigger one? Well it might not be directly the pump but something about the system. so is there a blockage with the filter? (External or internal) so when pressure is applied it’s sucking on it and blocking the flow. is there a trapped pipe or seal creating a vacuum in the system? Maybe a pipe or seal has cracks or a tiny hole. with the last one try checking the wiring or connectors for high resistance.

Some triumph manuals say not and never change the preload on the bike . Some service manuals state not to change the fork oil ?? I know it’s 5wt so its almost like water but I wouldn’t trust the book for that quote and go anywhere near that miles till a change. I mean you change engine, brake, coolant etc quite often, why not the fork? It works very hard virtually all the time for the tyre, bike and you…

Release date was 2017, mine was a 2019 and had it over four years, supply was still an issue over my tender and the last dealer confirmed the same thing and nothing had changed with their infrastructure before my mind was final.

Well goosed is that oil!!! Was it dealer or other? more than likely they would have put in 5again, assuming again but even so which one? Do they have a brand loyalty? colour of oil will give a clue most of the time, red is 10wt for example. if you ride all rear round I would consider the cold rating, and if your doing that many miles in a year I’d try one that will at least last longer/stability second. if you ride summer only id stick to the hot rating with less difference between the cold. just go with a brand you like, trust, can get hold of easily and use the info in the site now you have d some idea how it work to narrow down what you want the bike to behave like. Recording is good, mixing can be beneficial but just be wary that as the details show above that they are not consistent in behaviour between own brands wt grades let alone different grades or models nor mathematically consistent. Its a minefield and a dark art…

Correct. also its quicker to work out things to start with: what settings (pre, comp, rebound) are in the forks now? what oil was in the forks before? How old or degraded was it and how was its behaviour when new and it at now? What level/volumes was it set at? And how you what to change its behaviour for new and over its service life time…. http://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/. lets assume was it Motul comfort oil 5wt in your forks: 18.2 cst 40*, 4.0 at 100* 124 vi. and you wanted to stiffen it up just a bit: factory line med5-10 is 22, 6.2 and 254, so what that means is it’s just under 1/4 thicker at low heat but 1/3 thicker when warmer yet the properties/stableness will two and a half times longer. if you put in their comfort medium 5-10 is 35,6,115, so it would be nearly double the thickness at low heat but almost the same as the factory at higher heat but last less than the comfort oil. if you put it silk 5wt, 22,4.4,106. It would be marginally thicker but last even less. put in pro rst5wt, 26,9.4,372. Noticeable thicker when cold, very stiff when hot yet last WAY longer than the others to the point of 3 times… castrol syn 5wt, 28, 5.7,151, just under half the thickness again when cold, just over 1/4 when hot yet only last slightly longer. silk 10 34.8, 7, 169. 3/4 thicker yet only last slightly a bit longer. castrol 10 is 42,7.5,150 not quite twice as thick only lasts abit longer. castrol 15 is 46,8.3.150. Slightly more than Twice as thick but the grade of quote should be three time as it a 15 you would have thought yet only fractional more than the 10. silk pro 10 rst is 47,13,303. More than twice as thick cold, more than three times thicker when hot yet last slightly more thantwice as long… thats before you think of the other brands, how your forks design will work with the oil, setting of the fork, time of year, how hard you work the bike… so are you just gauging from what the bike is doing now, with the settings in now? so when new 2 out was good, if your oil is goosed your at 1/8 out and it’s pogoing still. seemed ok when new. you could just put in the same oil or very close to it but the new one will be good again but just say its normal will be 1 1/2 out, just change a touch sooner.

The Italian bits were ok . Pretty much most of the bits that went wrong were the Chinese parts: clock x1 nearing x2, main light unit x2 nearing x3, whole exhaust system x1 nearing x2, frame nearing x1, pegs and levers x2 no matter what cleaning was being done, pillion hand rails x2, loads of bolts x2, nearing loom x1, ignition barrel was going, Engine was ok at first but after a year two started to vibe a lot, year three it was jack hammer and started to move about on the side stand, Convinced the engine was going to shoot a crank in my face soon near the four mark, the seat comfort wasnt great after a few months as the foam began braking down and was terrible to put back on. 3months waiting was the minimum. Luckily most of the woes didn’t quite stop the bike from being used but the ignition and loom went on a disco session 80 miles from home/mechanic wasnt fun at the time. It was a nice looking bike, brakes were brilliant (Brembo) if not abit over powered, handbar (cant remember the name exactly but had a p? but it wasn’t chin or Z in it) was good, even the cheapest oem Pirelli tyres that were ok (I changed them to Michelin then Avons, forks not bad, shock was usable but could of been better, chain and sprockets coped reasonably well with salted roads. The last picture of and the moment I sold the bike:

Most seem to like Remus.

Good bikes in general. just look into the servicing with the exact RE before committing: they tend to need it a lot more often (miles) and the bigger jobs are a lot sooner too, so the general overall cost of service could be more than say Japs. before taking into account your and the dealers time… which was one negative thing that put me off, you might be fine with it and fits your life style and commitment. which if the other half already has her back up with a bike will certainly give you even more grief.

New: wemoto https://www.wemoto.com/bike/yamaha/mt-1/125/2015/13389 I’m assuming yours a abs model? do a generic fuel cap with two keys £30, ignition barrel with lock set £45, unfortunately OEM is extortionate £325 only for the ibarrel and lock set.

But again a lot of money and effort goes just to save a few quid, the only way to make a return is to either have low profits on each unit and a long term plan to keep quality or higher profit on each but higher chance of backlash or claims harming credibility and profit later on. The best of return is if they are made closer to your main market and sell the bulk there which would off set shipping lesser units everywhere else, one thing shipping and thousands and thousands of smaller goods in a container like phones than a bigger unit like a bike or car is a different thing. If the cost is low and its good enough to satisfy for its price point, the customer will be happy and the long term returns/rewards continues. if the cost of the bike/running cost is higher, yet sees cost cutting/shoddy work and poor reliability then your less likely to want to return to that brand. which I’ll say many like benelli fall into that at the moment, while RE with the int just about avoiding it. unless you a die hard supporter or got more deposable income than sense. its of course a balancing act and how much you value one part will offset the others, its just how much screwing over “the board” wants to do… Benelli’nese have and still do have numerous problems with the bikes and their company infrastructure for customers after sales! i known I owned one four years and have previously posted my problems with them….do you wish me to relist them And the current one and exdealers experience and how they work? .

primary school was closed and turned to flats. Secondary still going strong, niece and nephew used to go to, daughter and other niece goes there. a quite few things have changed, layout, attitude and so forth. but some pupils are still randomly talking______.

https://www.wemoto.com/parts/ab3277 got this one from Wemoto, demon tweeks do one, think even screwfix might do one?

116g/km is about the same as mid 2000 fiat panda 1.2 NA that was designed to be as eco as possible while cheap to made and run, 69hp but slow for a ton car. Problem with most motorbikes and especially those ones you mention: one is that they have have loads of revs, more revs, more produce gases and more chances for those gases to go unburnt. if we had smaller cc, lower rev, turbo engine so the gases have a change to be recycled, we’d have a better chance. big lower reving twins get longer and better chance to completely burn the fuel and refresh the air. also the testing for the emissions: its very much out of date and not done to the benefit of the individual bikes needs much like the car test, is done at certain speed, certain rev, certain gear for x time, then different speeds, might work better for a 125 or a 400 etc but a 1000 hyper bike will have different results. You’d like to think manufacturers should be doing something to change this tend as they aint helping themselves by dragging their heels. suspect it might be abit late now before EV is forced apon us.

Hi Barney. yeah of course pop a post on when ready.

Shouldnt that be 1-1, nobody died, nobody got injured, everyone went on their merry way…

https://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2025/march/new-anti-tampering-exhaust-rules/

I am roughly average height. three of the worst bikes I have ever graced, husky spartvilin, Honda rebel and a Harley , I don’t remember which one as it but never again.There was one victory/indian bike was wasnt too bad if I had too. like Bonio says a horrible stress position, everything was wrong, pegs and legs, the low seat and the stupidity of the arm reach that hurts the arms, shoulders, neck and back that is like a sitting on a really low level toilet, like legs out, while trying to play snooker on a raised table. low speed wobbles. grinding pegs, exhaust and boards around the most corners without trying. short revs so ull probably bash into the rev limiter a lot. tyres should last ages. brakes are not the best, suspension will be a mix bag, really soft on the front but non much travel and stiff rear. ull probably start having positive thoughts about chaps and tassels.

I have one it’s good for the forks but how often you do the forks depend ms on its usefulness. Apparently you are ment to replace the pipe every time- Really??? I just clean it out with brake cleaner and leave the parts including the plunger separated. The parts- the pipe realistically it’s just a plastic syringe, synthetic piping, a hollow aluminium pipe and a alu ring/collar with a grub screw. £20ish max it should be.

There is only two spots- under the tank is quite vague but sort of correct, it’s side of the frame near/next to the airbox close to the centre of the bike Or its placement will be very close to the battery. off memory it will have a rubber sleeve around it with a slot, then slips over the top thin plastic tongue Or sat next to another relay.

Looks and Built like a Tesla. Early life experience put him through scene- call police, drink and drug check, check insurance tax, mot etc, then gets a Summons, 9points on his license, short ban. insurance claim, calls for months to help but only interested in “injury” and they take over 50%. they go through 4th dimension to fix it, cost a fortune and still supplied with ebay scrapper parts. Premium goes through the roof. that will put him off breaking stuff.

Agree with Ray. Sat on some bikes over the years that had different types just out of curiosity- over, under and stick outs. they were worse for every aspect other than just being odd and looking different for the sake of it. Removing mirrors while not illegal will make a claim and any court decision affected if they thought your lack of mirrors would have contributed to the accident or having them could have avoided it in the first place.

Thanks. With that bit of extra info id check two things they aint deal breakers but good to know- the chain tension through its length and the crush drives- if they are worn they can make it feel sloppy and slappy at the same time. Clutchless upchanges can be a strain on the gear box in more ways than one, the Zzr are reasonable strong to a bit of power and The odd low level hiccup and but don’t like constant stress. i know from mine and my bros kwaks their action was smooth and quite positive with the clutch but trying a clutchless was not great and felt like it wasn’t happy doing it certainly not often anyway. maybe your just used to that friction needed and force given rather than the smoothness of the suz and interpretation is sloppy? Just a thought….like some say it’s how you get used to something, it becomes the norm.

Maybe Sloppy as in how? Lever, peddle, action, feel, feedback? even just a simple thing of the oil can have an effect let alone something else. Suzuki gearboxes and clutch’s are great for feel (softer side of). Honda firestorms we’re fairly similar (though the gearing was a bit off) , where as Ducatis of the same era were more direct, shout and harder work. Theoretically and generally the engine difference will have a different effect, so smaller cylinders and weight but at least one will be doing something which you/gearbox/clutch/timing have to work with and have friction while a twin has bigger gaps so will have least chance of hitting that moment but when there you’ll know ot - bit like having throwing four potato’s at you in very quick succession or two quite small melons spreader out further, which would be easier to dodge? then add in the bikes designed clutch plates, lever etc… I think thT that is the difference and you notice it now, maybe the engine configuration is great for you but you feel the box is touch soft? Maybe try a different manufacturers twin and see if that balance is better for you?

The camera height/angle is level with the axles, look at it from normal or bar height and it will be higher up than pictured here. I don’t mind it though not my thing, more interested in the shiner parts…