RideWithStyles

dont bother with the forks, its easy and quiet to just undo the front wheel and slide through especially as its light weight. wrap it around the lower body or better yet the front vertical frame stem to the anchor or lamppost of your choice...

Yss are ok, budget (corrosion and wear is higher) if set up correct for you but its a case your more likely just going to leave on the bike for the next owner. not all (also depends on the bike) but quite a few do, maxton is a UK specialist and they do which helps with R&D, manufacturing, consistency and cost for both company and customer. both good, just depends on which supplier is supporting your bike or which local suspension specialist you trust works with. If you pop down to a track day (local race) and ask about who does regular work their and respected. Valving and fork oil (viscosity and quantity) is very important.

full of bull shit reply- that would solely destroy any reputation of the manufacturer and dealer already if i had much respect left for them. even the dealer and Benelli excepted fault as to changed the parts with my old bike and thats a chinese parent brand! with no european distribution or stock of parts what so ever, whole exhaust system weak points from metal welds of heat shields, clocks (fogging), rear grab rails and pillion mount foot rests (rusting under paint), headlight (fogging), one or two other little bolts/brackets they put through the single claim too so this was very expensive to fix. So yest i had a few niggles with the bike but with that good level of support i wasnt expecting from them, i would consider returning to the brand even with it declassed as "Chinese" as they are improving at great speed. Would i venture back to a japanese brand if they did the blatant durty on you? while they stall or even go backwards on their support to their customers-NO ID NEVER RETURN.

but thats only if the spring is under or over ratio for your weight as std, if the oil/gas and valving isn't working properly for you then that needs addressing... Thats why i said resale is a plus! keep the standard in the garage or what ever, use the new one (ohlins, nitron etc) doent have to be highest spec as their cheapest road shocks are more that enough for heavy track use, look after it and when you sell the bike you can either sell with adding value or take it off and swap to the std shock, sell separately or put on your next bike. most are the same body (unless you really change bike style) but only the fixture ends (most swappable) will be different. either way you'll barely loose money on one while any from a bike brand model up youll always have to junk it.

i dont think a grom is suitable for a luggage rack (due to the extremely tiny dimensions of the bike plus lack of fixtures) unless you want to sit on it in place of the seat. also the cost of them old ( apprication) or new (over priced toy) is a premium id put as bluntly sunday toy for childish nonsense... also parts wont be as easy to source. id say a 125, something like we had a honda cbf125, cheap to buy and insure, 100+mpg, parts new or used cheap readly available, light and easy to ride, luggage options available, simple and easy to fix. gets up to 60mph easy enough and you can keep with traffic where as its far scarier on a 50cc when you can only do 30 at a push on a flat and everyone baring down or passing you at great speeds, then your a slow tractor on any incline....

doubt givi or shad will do it. risk the internet emarket? if you do find one it will be use the fixture points of the rear grab rails.

go aftermarket! your local (USA) brands will do but failing that ohlins miles better than most stock units even from more "premium models" they'll be cheaper, seviceable, and potentially resale.

my first 600 was a thundercat, good bike. been up and down with caps, dropped from 955cc to the previous bike 500 (46hp) happily enough for four years (would have been longer) and im spring chicken at 44. now on a 77hp 650 which is more than enough for what i need on the road but its inline 4 need to work harder.

just needle in a hay stack of misery if they prod-round, service or fix one problem only to disturb something else and create another problem. plus sometimes older parts are harder to get which for dealer want to stick to supply/stock easy to work with.

Agree with all, also to note with Trooper. Might be a Honda but its cheap labour, costs, and lack of proper processes for that area while being made in Thai. send it back to the dealership and see what honda are prepared to do..they'll either hold their hands up which is good but id be worried about it nearing the warranty expires if you plan to keep it beyond that or flob you off and shatter whats left of their reputation with you and others.

good decision on going down the capacity. Id agree with all those above. id avoid adv due to sticking their weight stupidly high up so the tipping point of no return is higher, unless your well over 6ft and bit of stock with you. to be honest id just keep the one bike that will tick as many boxes form the off and keep it... insurance and loyalty??? if you have a manual and full licence but spent a lot of time on autos and smaller capacity they can view you as rusty or questionable....darn i say it also especially considering age, it pedantic i know but thats insurance for you.

wonder if its not just the time but because its parked side on? id lust like to see just how many more tickets the warden could neatly stick to the screen? then do they do the front when they run out of space on the back? then do you do the interior cubbys then the foot boards, then the seat, the exterior panels, wheels....

fair enough, yes so if you spend alot of time pottering at low revs alot you can choke up the system over time. the beos have always been that way... is mentioned before id say the baffle is the the main reason its better now. similar thing to two other bikes i owned, zx6 and 955i. zx had two different exhausts during its time i had it, a single exit with removal baffle and the other was a road legal evo twin exit, one with one baffle and one plug so you could play about with the options: baffle and plug, no baffle and plug, no baffle no plug, plug at top baffle at lower i think.... each option did have a variety of cause and effect on a road bike. the 955i had a massive effect on if the baffle was in or not, range from boarderline antisocial but sounded brill with a good delivery. take the baffle out and it was amazing to hear on chat, i thought it nudged to antisocial in towns unless at 2500rpm, had a cliff drop in the delivery (125 level of power) mid range past half throttle.

Sorry but if you were to ignore his job and so called qualified certificates, if you was to play copper you'd say that he must of been speeding as he couldn't/didnt stop intime... No does the suggestion they add a speed camera, 20 10inch speed bumps, lower to a 20mph cos now he added an accident statistic to the road so must be black listed cos holy he wasnt a random citizen but one of the blues.

thats the other problem....assuming. Sometimes the ones with power and "knowledge" think they know all or the possibilities . Spent so much mind power reading into other shite that they instantly dismissed that a old biddy on the sheerry the night before in a 1.2 micra couldnt noob it up as he thought the gate would keep her in...nope add that one to the ever growing check list of people capable of doing stupid things to look out for.

agree with Husoi and gero, the only good and worthwhile time to actually walk into the dealer to twist their melon. this time of the year they are not quite as enthusiastic with sales and especially pxs. early to mid week, very early or late year are better chances of them...

yes it sort of is but it depends on why? sometimes just the constant heat and fuel pressures being forced through can just clear it if its lightly affected, as sometimes you have to reset everything when you start taking things off and clean them manually which adds to price... generally good baffles with decent/good systems (quiet ones that also depend on the bike setup and exhaust) very rarely affect low speed, but actively help low speed running, hence why other than proactive emissions benefit the exhaust valve was (pipe or cat placement) favoured for a very long time. so if you take the baffle out, you might experience little loss but might fluff up the low to mid range, variation from slightly dip in delivery to stuttering to massive holes or off power band levels of effects.

its a mainly a dealer decision rather than a manufacturer brand. but some are better than other with attitudes like this. Suzuki and there dealers are more likely with the older bikes as with there great vintage parts supply program, honda aint to far off but i for one have less love/like for that brand...

too shitted/messed up maybe but then again ive only ventured out once to a new bike (afew with cars) as all my others have been used bikes and seldom bother with dealers as my experience with them aren't good... Well yes they killed future purchases, what id do is find an independent garage or a really good old school mechanic.. which is what ive got near me. one thing will be they'll be cheaper and easier to deal with.

self preservation is the key...those that naturally have it or learn quickly enough don't suffer as much in money, pain,inconveniences and even life. problem comes mostly through attitude, technology advances (mostly distraction and degradation of skill ) that have come in great leaps and bounds. Alo to note is as vehicles get bigger and safer for the occupants inside are alot less likely to be affected so they feel safe in their bubble (fook everyone else even if i cant drive correctly attitude) so definitely takes risks or just not bothered to drive properly but the two factors that havnt changed is the roads (most are still the same as they were before our grand if not great great grandparents and the questionable individuals that are allowed to command a death machine at great speeds just because they managed to scrap the bottom of the barrel once!

air filter. fork oil will need changing. check the shocks, they should have dampened (if it springs back faster than you and wobbles the bike at the top of the stroke when you push down hard) they need replacement. check the chain throughout for rust,damaged rubber and lack of flexibility. brake system (master cylinder and calipers) should have a proper overhaul/strip down with new hoses, washers,seals and pads. but if you a dangerous type just replace the fluid.

i can see where its all gone into but mmmmmm so wrong, so hill billy . anyways from the same web site but more clever engineered and potentially more useful https://www.rideapart.com/news/717184/james-bruton-screw-bike-mecanum/

Hi and Welcome. Nowt wrong with older bikes, if its the right one. Mine is currently 19yrs old, i picked it up in 22 at 4000mils old, ive put on another 4thou...

for smaller bikes scooting or cvt still works well and have life in them.

CL and Maw are correct, the difference is if it extreme enough for tou to be in or around the unskilled/skill workers hands 24-7 (sure Gero will agree) or those that can in normal life still operate without being harmful or dangerous to others around them but just a mild inconvenience. then there's the others of the same being occupation, therapy, addiction which all have triggers and reasons.