RideWithStyles

I think you may need the crime number and victim support group for your wallet.

This is a 20year old bike now, original fitment in typical Japanese fashion back then was Bridgestone bt…dinosaur age, which is a tyre stopped making many years ago. brief summary: This bike came on some Bridgestones when I bought it years ago and they were…(thinking of diplomatic to not offend the BS die hard slags)...not to my liking one bit so I will not be considering that brand what so ever. Had them on cars too but just don’t like them. so brands to think about was; Metzelers as I’ve had a lot of them like rensport, m3,m5,m7, z8. (Z6r, 955,gsf) z8 have been great again though I was hoping for a bit more mileage from it…so was looking at the possibility of a more modern fitment. The Roadtecs are a massive jump in price with low chance of improvement in mileage to the outlay required. pirelli, had a good few of these Diablo, Rosso 1and 2, st etc. (Zx6r,thunder,955, benelli) GT, was on the wifes 125, lasted very well but the grape vine and pasting shows these will be dropped some time soon, so don’t want to fall into that problem of sourcing. not wanting to pay for the overpriced gt2 if avoidable. ST I had on the Benelli was okish (compared to the Flintstones) but the only tyre apart from BS that set off the tc ever wet or dry, easy to break its limits of braking and acceleration dry or wet even on a 200kg 46hp bike so not wanting to jump on that with more weight, power and less adjustability. Michelins: road2 and 2ct, (zx6r, benelli) good times and last well but also disconcerting. Price has gone up a lot with these as mentioned before. Brilliant tyres but My only gripe is that they don’t talk much due to the soft carcass which makes a lovely ride and finds grip but where that point of limit is and trust of when (wet or dry) I never can seem to relax about. was maybe looking into the Dunlops, I did ride on a laverda many moons ago that were on d214 which one point surprised the shite out of me on a round about but these were very re known for sketchy behaviour but more modern ones are better than the death traps. A 748 had a different model on, abit harsh (the duc was set up firmly too i believe) but never quite managed to make me need dry cleaning or hospital food unlike the 214’s. this would be mega premium to make me uncomfortable buying the mutants (things may change with my employment so all year riding maybe on the cards). Roadsmarts 3 was a possibility. Avons I’ve had some good times on (thunder cat,zx6r,benelli) and one blotch (thunder cat) but never got to working out the solid reason for it. Now they are harder to get hold of, cost more, fewer available and made in the EU. So not them. continentals, was on the cbf125 which I didn’t mind while the wife wasn’t as keen. General Difficultly sourcing and availability seems to be a a turn off. Had them on many cars and been ok to good with them. I was even looking left field (desperate) of maxxis, cst and anlas….but the risks were higher with less potential rewards. so as brief goes, I’ve been considering quite abit recently.

Gave the bike a deserved cleaning, sorry forgot to take a photo of the good work on the exact day. The Metz z8 tyres has been great but wear to the last mms has advanced rapidly, Started to square and ive not been keen on the tip on broken roads at this point. was tempted to change to a different brand again but the front can go another round, maybe pushing a third also the price of Michelins have shot up a lot very recently too, even or the lower tier’s and the Pirellis have gone up abit but the model I was looking at will be discontinued soon so trying for a single replacement will be harder and the model available im not really looking at. so next time I may try something different if the price and conditions are right, but now I’ll stick to a replacement rear.

Ok so not shavings or bits, great. But Bubbles? In the oil and that much? Have you been shaking the engine/oil before testing the dip???lol. it shouldn’t be doing that, it’s bad. so that suggests it’s pumping and foaming/froffing the oil. so its new oil and doing that now, oil is going to be useless in a few hundred not a thousand miles, Most quality oils and even mineral oils have antifoaming additives, maybe this one is shite or the wrong oil??

So for the first point, subscription isn’t really tariff affected, buying a product or materials that came from yank land will if we decided to slap one on that country, so if you was in US and wanted a product from the affected increased inflation that trump added that would drive prices up. Tax and vat will be a first step for us in the uk, then if the manufacturer/distributor had to increase price due to materials and manufacturer costs. tether unit will do away with subscription, unless you wanted to add a warranty some offer. If you get an external air bag it will pretty much fit over most jackets bar maybe big racing humps. if you get one internal your pretty much stuck with that brand of airbag and clothing that is designed for that unit….if you damage or leaking clothing you’ll have to source another of the same (is it available two/three years later?) or one that is designed for that airbag fitment assuming its still an active model (but does the new model of clothing fit you?) if not your really restricted to what you can have for the expensive accessory. Hellite is more reasonable in terms of protection, cost to buy and run as you can change the cheap co2 bottles your self. service and check over is less likely to be needed, turn around is quicker and cheaper…probably less likely to be lost or damaged in the foreign post. with it being on top you’ll get less cold wind chill in winter. it takes a large amount of force to set them off so your very unlikely to set it off just by stepping away from the bike when unforgeting the yard. yet how much would you trust an chip, sensors and algorithm to know the difference of that or a round about 15-20mph slide into a kerb or side of a car? Thats all what broke my bother’s hip and ribs. some of the fitted ones have short coverage and a small back protector…hoping the strike will be in the less area of protection and solely relying on the bag to do most work. if it was me I’d go Hellite teathered, might not be sexy but for the variety of situations and fitment, road, price, proven record its a no brainer and the one I’d go for. The only reason I havnt got one is to do with price and priority, it’s was and still on the list of wants but at the moment it’s had to fall inline.

In the manual the first oil change is due at 1000 km's, and 5he next one at 4000 and from there at every 4000. As the pcx has no "real" interchangeable particle oil filter some suggest to make the first oil change even before 1000 km's and one again between the first and 4000. After all it takes a liter all together. so 600miles from new a oil change of the factory oil, then oil changes from 2500miles and or 1year each time. now that is with assuming its in the most efficient and cleanest manner possible which the real world isn’t, cold starts, dirty air and fuel, water, hot, stop starts, thrashing just about everything . when this engine doesn’t have a internal filter at such, oil checks should be every third fill up and changes should be more often of 1000miles minimum. Engine design and fitment Nowadays Its rare for few flakes to still be in when it’s had a first oil change, very little of tiny glitter/sparkles maybe of bedding in but those are large flakes. Agree with the others all the red flags to walk away- it’s been neglected, been thrashed, ran low on oil, its still got bits in it now on the dip stick even after a oil change (so how much more is sat at the bottom of the sump?) and might have the thread damaged from a bodger….id even look at an older model that has been looked after rather than even consider this unit. The owner couldn’t even look after a new reliable scooter from a solid manufacturer.

Silver car speed and distance was quite erratic running up to that point*. For starters there is a sign post new and visible, Lane three is closing! (the silver car was in), white painted ground has faded for three to merge to no2 but says the same. If the driver was looking further than messing with something inside the car*, would have notices the cars ahead managed to merge without incident as to a clue, if they didn’t know the area. At no point near or at the merger was the silver car ahead or inline….i suspect was distracted by something again and got surprised hence the very late brake and swerving to the bank and then a quarter to the other side afterwards. Silver car driver was in the wrong and needed to insure a clean merge, plain and simple. our driver is not required to give way to the silver car, only to maintain distance, speed and lane discipline. admittedly it’s a bit poor layout of roadway and marking. part of the problem comes with advanced driving etc is that your expected to do the correct thing even if it goes against the masses. if he didn’t do that and a accident happened what will be said? Did you do as trained and learned? did you go below the expectations/standards for your level? And why did you change it? Just for the other driver? Why should you do that? Should you not expect that? That double edge one is terrible. To me it’s not difficult to just assume all the time the next driver I see is a complete nobber but other people find to harder to predict the worst manoeuvre. Where as if the silver driver has no higher level/standards it’s pretty hard not to go below the expectation of a basic level of driving.

Well a used Honda cbf125 that was 5years old, done under 4thou. Paid £1700 (heated grips and a few other things added to it as our request so price would have been lower). had it 8 Years, it gained a battle scar or two, it had done over 16thou, never needed anything doing to it other than usual oil, filter (strainer), tyres, battery’s and valve check etc We sold it quickly for £1200 to help someone out while we could of gotten the same or more than we paid for it, the local mechanic who was the mediator/contact had to turn loads of buyers away that day and week later that would of bought there and then not seen as demand for such a small reliable Japanese bike. 100-110mpg was the least I could get out of it. Service was roughly every 4thou with a timing at 12 or 16thou off memory- it never needed adjustment. agree with capt Sisko, certainly not for the parents peace of mind but add maybe because they know it will more likely fail they need service more often in the hope they catch it beforehand. So makes a slightly cheaper bike more expensive to run and time wasted and it’s worth less so really where’s the money being saved by the buyer? Yet even then it’s still likely to fail (they are what they are designed and made to be) the minimum is to last to the warranty period…as It happened earlier in the year and late last year with a one or two post wonder. Tried so hard to fly the flag yet a few weeks later, posted this bike faulted miserably (Laughing cats). by all means buy one but just be warned that, R&D, design, manufacturing, support and time from a established manufacturer is not cheap and why they are where they are over time. yet for brands it’s worth every penny if you wish to have people willingly open their wallets too buy your expensive product, failing their trust and as a company can expect pain back.

You could get a two piece over suit, The results could vary with what you have already. would less likely to allow water and cold to get through but then your more likely to hold that warm vapour and cool down in the layers making it seem think one or the other has failed but really you’ve held it in place to build up. so to put it in a context your sort of putting up a double glazing window on the inside to only put a different single glazing one just infront of that one. to be honest if you paid a fortune for laminated product to do its job, it needs to do it or you’ll might aswell not of bothered or claim on the warranty.

only a few blemishes, fork lower casts and lower engine cases have staining, handle bar has some marks , looks like it could of had a little drop at one point but not terrible but looks like it may had a brace on aswell at one point, right side indicator is having a bit of droop. Seen a lot worse go for four times more. Got to agree, made a good commuter for a K. all seems very reasonable but I suspect its more like it’s been poorly sold, with lack of detail that sells itself for a buyer to bite.

Sorry Joe but No, it will be two separate incidents/offences, worse as you ignored the first one just before…

More than likely it was primarily from the engine and worked its way through the frame and only so much can be achieved through component dampening. Is it a short wave long chain or a short chain long wave type of vibration and at what revs? Do u feel it through the seat and or pegs/the bars. loads of vibrations throughout revs and speeds happen all the time, its very difficult to tune them all out on a bike so maybe look at it this way…if they didn’t/couldnt do that one your thinking of, how bad must the other ones be?

Hi and welcome. sorry to hear that but as long as she’s ok, happened to the wife too. She had hers for 7years, tough little nuts. For the painted on pics 1,2,3. T cut or similar to get it even/smooth, then polish, then compound to smooth it down, then depending on how deep it is you could wax and leave or rattle can paint. I wouldn’t bother doing too much to the mud guard. for the lens (3) you could do the same of the painted or just find replacement indicators lens covers. Check the handle bar is even as they can bend slightly. just a note - the bike, well the front tyre looks new? The rubber hairs are still there and prominent dimples on the centre, Id hate to aSk what make and year was it made?) what pressure are they at? And with picture 1 & 3 is looking like she’s already using a lot of the front forks travel already? They are too soft from the factory, how much travel she using? If you measure the from the fork dust seal (rubber seal at the top of the lower cast) to the dusty ring mark on the Stanchion above, if is nearing 115mm already it would be safer to change the fork oil to a thicker grade, 15wt if shes a super feather weight 20wt if not.

Not quite, electric cars are quite powerful, fast and very quiet so nobody has a chance to avoid them with nobbers at the wheel…. illegal is only if you choose to do so, if there is a similar system to bikes where it can only be so big (class) and so many Hp/KW restriction that is fair and blanket across the board. Most if not all electric cars now have driver profiles, two way communication between the manufacturer and other parties, tracking and so forth (very much like phones), steering corrections, auto brake…..so to go that little more all of them needs to add face recognition a driver that is attached to a license, license says yes or no… or limits the cars capabilities to 60Hp and 60mph for example, they also recognise speed signs and limits so could cap to them regardless, so in layman’s terms it could be like heavy restrictioned eco mode. Possibilities to do it are their, just not actually done yet.

normally I don’t think I have “a singing” voice.. Maybe, probably only last about a sentence then I sound more like a dying giraffe. well I know its not my first, my last, or everything but I certainly want to to stop now .

Unfair to the young car drivers? Which ret***** Nob jockey gave that verdict and passed the reason to that? I agree with you both. its not just buying but a large portion are named driver to big suvs or powerful cars anyway so money that would restrict them to getting access to them isn’t a issue. sister and brother in-law got run over by a second young drink driver scrote in there parents SUV after the first d1ckhead stacked the car he was driving into parked cars while they were racing around last month. i suspect the real reason will be due to the huge cost (mostly to them), back log and implementing such that they dont want to do it even though statistics will say it should be done but they dont want to rock that boat. so really as we already knew it being greatly unfair once again to the motorcyclist.

Unfortunately I have joined the lepper’s - tonsillitis and chest infection great, I sound more like Barry White on dope.

Sharp eyes . Only had two in all the cars and luckly none on the bikes in all the years. Not rubbing it in honest its just a real shame and heart goes out to you especially when they ain’t cheap. you do right by that decision! may your path be clear magneto.

I know what you mean and I agree, A lot of them are avoiding it and it doesn’t matter if it’s new for a demo or used to see if its actually ok…

Maybe it’s a hint?

Fiddles, strictly speaking it’s a torqx key and not an Allen . shame it killed the tyre so soon. How old /mileage is that tyre, it looks new?you might have to keep an eye on the pressure or the suspension, tyre starting to ripple/pucker already. Tinkicker, The road 6 have a flatter top yet rounder edge on both front and rear to the BS, the steering will be slower (slow to late progression) and should reduce squaring off longer.

Legally there are rules not to break, It depends on the tyre rating, where the damage is, how big is it? they have to put there accountability to a repair, on a car it’s not good if it does fail badly while on a bike dangerous!

As Stu says but also Keep it anyways, mint original exhausts sell for a fortune with aged and well regarded bikes. if you still it when you sell the bike, it actually appreciates them the more original they are.

Re paint the front door, watch it dry and do it again?….oh the giddiness of ME time.

Better than a benellis. I wouldnt go bragging about that too much.