RideWithStyles

really? 1200+ engine old school block need i say more, i could go into the technical details but i wont and shouldnt need to....he requires a smaller engine which is a different aspect

got to agree with all posts with amusing jokes aside, Tinker and Goju technically correct. anther way to see it is what would happen if one of the cars breaks down or fails the mot miserably? if all fails they use the other car while you can use the bike. we have one car and two bikes, but the second bike we will be selling in a month or two. when it came to it the priority was wife and daughter, so wife would use the car and id use either of the bikes.

It's for the wife, an Ex council worker bought/lease an business and thinks they can run it , nope. Just the same as the gym i go too the business partner failed miserably. councils cant even sort they're own life out. Thanks Guys!

4 cylinders are peaky things, on the road normally a twin will be quicker to get up and drive off while youll have to wait for the power band or jump down two gears every time just to over take a old biddy in a micra..which gets tiresome unless your on the track... seriously. Ive jumped up from a 600 inline 4 (100hp) from a triple 1000 (140+hp) then back down to a twin 500 (46hp compliant A2 bike) and back to a inline 4 650 and its still the same. the twin on the roads wasnt much slower even with a lower hp as your always in the torque (the same if not more than peaky 600) and power band even low down and you dont miss much top end until you got to serious prison territory. if you wish to carry the 4 cylinder mantel then Benders suggestion is a good place to start.

Agree with the others, id look at something else more suitable for you...too many if and buts and boxes for someone with lack of knowledge and money id guess. Find a well stock of bikes and research where to find and cost of general parts for that bike that you need to choose from, go for a rough but workable bike and just give it TLC it deserves, youll learn much more and incentive to do stuff to/with it as it will be more rewarding from the off rather than trying to fix an unknown puzzle from some other people that messed it up that didnt know wtf they were doing or done and left you with only half the crap they lost out of the boxes.

not first a choice of a only bike for a new young rider to be honest. more like a season experience mech as a second or third bike for garage porn or very sunday best or very deep pockets to pay someone for its maintenance. parts even 10yrs ago could be problematic, and they are getting frigaile with age and loads of owners ...choice dealers like silvers and so forth and some questionable second hand sellers , fleecebay will be the calling. your still breaking the first rule when your on the starting/young age latter...its a light weight high powered sports bike with the extra problem of desirable and very hard to source parts...the reason its over 1k is because any slight accident or drop and theyll have to write the bike off and lucky if they break even before any claim to other parties or injuries added to it. so you need to build up ncd. look up insurance for Benelli leoncino 500, suzuki sv650 or gsr250, 250vanvann, ktm 390 duke, mt03 and any of the royal enfields you care to put in, theyre the cheaper end.

so he also removed the tank. check all the connectors, wiring and pipes that have been forgotten, loose, trapped and routed the wrong way for the tank, air box and injection/coils.

dont be afraid to look at Suzuki's great idea of the vintage program for parts, dealers or better yet specialist will know the best way and most of the time aint that much more than you think especially for the normal parts.

rain would reduce wear. road chambers and undulations up there which most of the time people wouldn't notice has an influence on wear (as you're into the cusp of softer compounds more often even when you think you're upright. the rougher the mac big gaps of large stones to finer ones inbetween increase this plus less fuzz and more slowing and fast speeding up just addes even more. even the grade of Tmacs have influence. its colder up there so oils generally stay put for longer so the binding is longer life so its less likely to flatten to a super slick glass surface.

Oh what fun Dec 2023 and 2024 has installed on us already! Anyone had the experience of an Employment tribunal? how did it go? what was it like for you?

Hi and great title! lets hope we can turn it make it less failing, or a least have fun about it.

Im not a mega electrical buff but if you follow those lines and see what they lead to. C1 is a constant load from the gen/stat. p is park light. HO is the positive feed from the battery. HO1 is the horn.

99 is injection not carbs so not much concern there. what other mods have been done? air filter, ecu, jet kit? what did it have on before your friend put the original one on? if it was rich then with a straight through, if he did everything correct without going for a razz (breaking something?) then all the original one would do would slow the gasses, have a bit of back pressure and maybe smell a bit less but wouldnt be on 1 cyl. the back fire is where fuel is passing the cylinder (not being burnt) and into the manifold or worst further down the exhaust. i would be checking the ignition system, which coils and sparks working and fault find backwards.

Hi and Welcome. we like seeing projects! personally i love seeing a unwanted mess returning to fine working fettle either road going or just garage gorping. Not an idiot you just fancy a Challenge, the peeps in this forum are more than welcome to share info. So come in and join the rest of us, idiots included.

think you need to either take it back for them to do a decent job or sign it off as lost cause, while looking for some other mech or just teach yourself. id only buy one if you have the intention to want to do the job yourself and for future engine work? personally riding it to deteriorate to terminal isnt a good idea, to strip it now and find out why is a good one, if you keeping the bike you could use/keep the good bits from this one and find a different engine.

obviously they thought bowls are more well made than their car! picking up cast off/unwanted items from Tesla owners? Im surprised shes not more than off with you...

if the bike you have only adjusts so much as you only got 3on it and you took your test thats it fine. After the test do what ever makes you more comfortable and safe (2-4) is my advice. me personally it varies...pottering around town and planned small scrubs of speeds il use 2, more needed its three, track or emergency stuff its 4. but that also depends on the bike, wifes 125 (no abs or assist) one or two in an emergency is more than enough! the 500 i had was the same (high powered brakes), the 650 (no abs or assist) needs more effort, the triumph 1000 (no abs or assist) needed more effort again due to the weight, the kwak 600 6pot tok were both hands and an parachute off the back needed for pretty much everything.

Hi and welcome! Nothing wrong with a lower to mid capacity bike. i spent a happy 4yrs on one after dropping straight from a 1000cc.

Agree with CL, sure the ural does have a reverse. fortnine (CAD) did a review on one a bit back but the latest version, at least the Ural has had so long at it in refining it. the only thing is its abit work horse about it, but easier to fix or replace if you need parts. most others are just way beyond eye watering over priced (can-am)even used, old GW/BM, to compromised, most others are still based off a bike with stuff slapped to it (shed job) if you trust the work and finish of it.

some bank accounts have them as part of the policy if you have one that is above the basic, worth a check.

its abig jump, especially when you have little experience (weight, cc and power), lower age, where you live, the type of bike (your looking at the racer end of the scales (mt7 is a hooligan naked) so try something a little more sensible. a good ground anchor and chain set. stick to 250-400cc single or twin cylinder, nothing with zxr and rr type and you should be fine.

hmmmm ok but judging by the wheel its had a harder life than the rest.

well if its a honda bike you have and they bought benelli labelled unbroken or broken crash protectors id have walked away from the bike.... either they put it on in that questionable state (one side only too?) or its had used them up already so how messed up is the bike?

looks like you may have two problems. first as tink says, ride it or if it will "stop" at while parked up with engine rev'd. when it happens, open the fuel cap, if loads of air rushes in and put the cap back on, will the bike start as normal again, ride a bit and if the cycle repeats its the tanks breather hose blocked or more likely trapped when the tank was put back on. the battery thing could be a weak battery or a short happening at the battery terms or wiring loom/connectors would be the first look.

its lost its plastic sacrifice part thats ment to stick out from the alu.