RideWithStyles

I like the look and sound of the rs660 though my titinus will disagree if i bought one, to a point its a first step to the same direction its always been going. i was thinking more of the lines of 500s turbos as 1000 replacements and 250 turb or superchargers as 600 replacements sort of follow the car tech, it just that manufacturers are quite slow and lazy in away only do when pushed out of the nest. Agreed but to my point is just isn't one thing, it so many...racing reg, manufacturing, road license, world domestic legislation, peoples mind sets...

To see it another way... bikes have gotten so much better, faster, lighter and to narrow minded the the times but too much biased to the track ethos and racing regulations with less eyes to world legitimises that they no longer fit in the open world... its the chasing the racing that has harmed them hence the view of the r7 statements... see it this way, late 1990-2000s R1 was hovering the 200kg mark with 120hp roughly way seen as a game changer and animal... even mid 2010 600s were considered junk if they rolled out with specs like that. 1000s now 250+hp well under 200kg more than hyabusas and tuned race bikes... with prices to match. in a way i can see the 1000s soon dwindling some what even if they can keep the battery brigade at bay. need to think of starting a fresh again really, if the manufacturers actually put some decent effort and stuff on smaller classes like they have to 1000's it could really jump it again but the bike market is sooo slow to do owt or see the bigger picture.. Another is a big reset of peoples minds could 600s or even 500s become the 1000s of today with a different thought using turbos and superchargers but i see legitimates with be closing to fast as batteries are closing in. to use the car world, engines are soo much smaller and much more powerful than even 7 years ago! 1.5ltrs cars are quick and faster that 2.5s only a few years ago, even 1ltrs are more than enough these days where as if it was less than 2ltr u might aswell get the bus.. thats my many thoughts on it anyway.

Agree with the above... your gonna have to compromise on a good few things of (do i really need them???) Shaft drive is probably the biggest hurdle to be honest.. Luggage can be added to most bikes of that type... might not be a givi badge sob they are out there. Electrical crap can be added most of the time if you know what and who if tour not gonna do it yourself... Engine well with the words of spread across the rev range youve boxed yourself to a twin, parallel, twin or box... A goldwing?? Sounds more like a car or do you wanna fit a small trailer to the back of the bike?? Lol. Theres a reason why the gs is popular among its type, they have pigeon hole themselves iznto it.

If they are aluminium ones they will be worn, if steel ridden gently and kept on top of uve got a chance but Id agree with Bullfrog. old wear on the Sprockets would imprint early on chain and the chain will try to imprint on the sprockets as they try to seat there way into a space that has already done 8000...oldly think of it like old bus seats. If thinking of installing a different chain just for the hell of it for forty or so quid might aswell do the sprockets. If your just looking at the rear sprocket for wear guide, Don't. you need to look at the front aswell as it spins far faster, has contact with the chain a lot more often, has the direct force of the engine and pulling/flappin motion of the chain that little sprocket hidden away does....

Just for giggles of course: cling film them while they try to put themselves in the way and roll them away..keep them save from themselves and others. maybe people should paint the JSO protesters cars orange while they're out protesting and place orange coloured wheel clamps....would be easy in todays world to find out who they were if anyone was actually bothered about them... the pin drops.

Went to paigton in the southwest on holiday and visited the pier, it was over £18 for fish and chips!🫨

Thanks!

Im assuming its the toggle switch v6 or earlier you have which is quite old in its design now. The controller is connected to the rest of the harness through two white connectors, they look the same at first glance should be just a case of swapping them out, but why do you want to change it? It would of made more sense to just got the newer version on discount... The controller is alot better as it has many %, but it allows for more heat which the newer grips also designed for and to cope with. You can do it but id be wary of just wacking it on 100% for ages.

Welcome, Good job and enjoy.

Open it up if ur desperate, out of warranty but most important competent to do it ill add. On the headlight bulb, it might just be connection issues, if the bulb or connector block moved slightly from a bump it altered contact but when riding it over a bump again but it back into place.

I was thinking the same thing as Bender, two filament in one bulb (one bulb does two jobs) does save space and especially cost but rarely better for it, honda 125cbf and many others including 600s has the same design. on the switch it could be the contact in the switch itself, if you use a electrical spray and give it a good spray to clean the inside. Best to to open it up carefully and give it a thorough clean and see it any the parts have become displaced.

Yeah gotta say its true with the above statements. We've been through it and no doubt many still want to be better at it even after years of riding. Sometimes overthinking it or just trying to nail a particular aspect just means you make mistakes and chase ur tail...

Sorry late to the party... wow good show, it should look a beauti when it gets done. Just on a note of Sand blasting, yes it is quick and easy with very impressive results if done right but you ideally need plenty of metal (solid) in in the first place. it is a really the top level of aggressive for removing surface, its very easy to hole or even completely destroy (turn it into metal particles on the floor) that swing arm in less than a blink of an eye. That swing is really soft and thin metal when it was new let alone 40 years and a hole or two added... id be sooo choosy in trusting to do that, only letting operator who has done these old bikes loads before, not just letting any sandblaster have ago at it! Its a pain and loads of time (you did say no time limit! ) but its the safest! Vapour blasters are safer on more fragile parts. just thought of other options for future are acid baths (like chromer shops, that do gravure rollers for instance) and maybe if the part isnt too fragile are sonic cleaners. For rare parts and info of these bikes might be good to start finding a trusted source / shop in or near japan (internet makes this easier) or maybe if there is a specialist that has the contact already? its their home market they do keep and value these old timers more than we did... looking forward on further updates on this build.

Welcome! As long as its metal and two wheels Im sure its fine...anything more will have go through the resident checker first Bender. .

Thanks bonio! Seems nice and welcoming with enough warm hearted odd balls to keep it entertaining! Been up, down, left, right, old and new with bikes in the past but currently on a GSF650s bandit...pew pew...yeehar.

Con

There are two now? I even still have the tshirt...

If so generally two small thinest black pipes coming from the bottom of the tank and follow them, the one you want will lead to the very bottom of the bike pointing to the floor most likly between the engine and the swing arm. See if there are any kinks or trapps. crap might have clogged it, you can clear it with a low pressure air or wd40 from the little hole in the top of the tank in the there will tvery small hole to the side next to the inlet that you fill with petrol .

Wonder if the tank breather is trapped of kinked? If you can open the fuel tank does tons of air rush back into the tank? Then close it back, and start it up again. does it cut out much later on but still does cut out?? Most likely is that but to test would be to leave the tank cap ajar and start it up again and leave it on idle, if it stays running beyond the last time its definitely the brether hose.

Agree with above As another choice could be GT85 (bit like wd40) its a ptfe spray. Just use what's appropriate for you area and use Its like chain lube wet or dry... If you live somewhere dry and sand a dry lube is best but if its wet alot a wet lube is best.

Welcome to the forum and to road riding.

Hello and welcome! well you've definitely thrown yourself in the deep end with that statement!! Im sure we can all together help out with knowledge to help you out.

Hi

JandS accessories does good and cheap stuff, sports bike shop direct does good stuff. Assume you are invisible to every other road user and pedestrian even if they are looking at you in the eyes. fit in helmet and clothes is first poirity! Flashy and fancy specs are at the bottom. pinlock for your visor is good, it it rains or cold days stops misting the visor! Look where you want to go and toull end up there, dont be target fixation. Dont be harassed by car drivers just cos they see the Lplate,. stick to the middle of the lane and dont be shying off to the kerb ur a fellow road user and have the right to be on that road too. 125 are quicker than u think...from your car driver past youll try to keep to the lower end of the rev range (3000rpm) 125s just idel at 1800rpm cos youll think as a driver not a biker, the 125 will only start waking up at 6-8000rpm let alone feel on cam!! keep checking tyre pressures at least every few weeks, bikes are sensitivto them unlike cars. Youll have more of the road to make use of, less wasteful box taking up all the space in the lane,so ull feel abit more exposed. Later on when ur comfortable in riding feel smug when u filter past boxes and angry van drivers. There are rules to it but your learning license experience (instructors and examiner ) will not teach you these. This is more advanced stuff but good to keep in mind when u get used to biking. On Straight roads of your lane keep middle of it, on left turn's and corners keep to the three quarters on the right side of your lane (closer to the middle painted line) and on the right turns keep to the three quarters of the left side of the lane (closer to the curb). slow into the corners, quicker out of the corners. look at far as you can and Chase the vanishing point.