RideWithStyles

as the others say, remove chain, remove small bolts and plate, pent liq, big long shaft flat headed screw driver behind sprocket and in front of case pull the driver at a 11 to 2 contact points a bit then spin the sprocket a bit so your now lifting what would have been 11 to 8 ooints and just keep moving it round bit at a time.

have you tested the batterys health? you can still charge a goosed battery and it wont start.

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Day of the dead OP weapon of choice!

Good

Hi thats great!

simples - add it to the to bike with a quick static warm up the week after you definitely decided not to ride anytime after that...

thats what living in an area (read into that what you will) with little experience or license category can do -cost too much. the advanced courses very rarely offer any worthwhile discounts to do soley for insurance cost purposes other than your own knowledge and piece of mind to ride in like the manner the courses preach. comps/under writers are very coy, look at percentages....not had a claim for a good while? they see it your more likely/risks get higher to have one /due one by being com-placement or something with the next years policy they have to pay out.

Nature is a miracle, myth and a mystery: miracle we have it, myth it can predicted all the time and a mystery we still have it.

i had the e36 325- bloody good car of a large family saloon which had a full sized wheel as a spare as std, the car had 15inches which back then were large beasts. a few years down the line mild hatches have 17s as std pretty much as big external but far less space everywhere internally. now budget super minis come on poverty spec 17s and side walls that resemble liquorice strips and few with little option of shite foam let alone a space saver, are even bigger than the hatches of last year's and even worse again inside....99% of the roads haven't got bigger and worse? a reverse progress trend.

thats the thing to save you from the same mistake, a part from the wrist what is it that actually makes it boring to you? if its the engine design and character? -is the inline 4 just so smooth and not talking/engaging enough for you then a bigger inline 4 is generally the same thing but even harder to achieve only its upper range reach is higher so to really engage with it your needing to go faster which has its own troubles or stay in the first two gears... have you tried a different engine configuration? triple and twin from a different manufacturer? they might just be what you're looking for?

SD - which one? that would be helpful for other people... H- great for milk too and yt fails.

Split

Hi! well the wrist ache could be down to a few reasons, handle bar/clip ons rake (how turned in or flat they are), height, reach into relation to your other body dimensions and placement on the bike. i'll assume it's within the same type and engine size your keeping to? Triumph trident, aprillia 650, yamaha r7, ktm 790....

Be

some bank accounts have roadside assistance already included that some dont know about. in the past i've experienced the good and the bad from AA, rac, greenflag and independents.

both Bell and staffy are still trading, staffy are not budget wise, bell are ok but not the best of class if compared like to like to some of competition. ok if your head fits first and foremost!!! as bonio said. hjc are good helmets worth considering. ls2 are ok but noise reduction and interior lining quality is middling at best. A good designed and manufactured polycarbonate/injected mould helmets are ok (the eps has to deal with more lower shock frequency) if you stick to a good brand but just abit cheaper, cheap ones from a factory (mrp) id stay well clear rather than the good ones discounted...

again

just

first thought was a triumph bonnie are the nearest thing to the RE Int, true classic still being made thats had soo many years of refinement, without the daft ott service intervals, trundle sunday best to the pub... not too heavy (weight fairly low down) nor over powered nor a rev monster. any garage will fix or service it, manuals galore and good followers if you require advice. now a complex machine. if you feel biking isnt right for you now the chances of losing much money is lower. the only thing youll need to do is to sit on one to see if your body dimensions work for it?

Glad

you car unfortunately at the time of manufacturing didnt factor in the potential problems or the first owner was either to stupid or tight fisted or just removed it them selfs to either the next car (which really works) or sold on fleecbay. But realistically thats no difference....you could have been a OAP/disabled etc that couldnt do it anyway even if there was a kit of not...but even if the kit fails to do it as the tyre/wheel is too damaged its still the same outcome. realistically the service they provide is vehicle broken down help / recovery...they failed to do both for a premium you pay for. Now when you got the policy many moons ago it may have it in as in the typr of package- recovery, road side assistance and home side assistance, then there are additional or excluded benefits. now over the years on renewal they generally smallen the benefits, add more exceptions and up the price unknowingly as possible. Im waiting for the electric car/van exclusions to take into effect as they have even more problems of what or how you recover these vehicles, then add a massive bill to that policy to save the planet... firstly you really need to see the upto date policy terms and conditions you agreed to. then send a letter officially to the complaint dept. could try to take them to courts over the matter, if you find they somehow failed to provide you with the service then just out of principle you could but medium to low chances you get back the money die to small print details and even less likely previous payments.