mealexme Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 So, as part of my ZX6r project, I want to get into the ignition barrel to fix the problem I have with inserting/removing the key. Basically, the key works fine on the seat lock and petrol tank, it also turns smoothly once the the key is inserted and WD-40 makes no difference. So, I'm thinking that one of the wafers is either bent of severely worn/rusted.I had a look at it on the bike, and was hoping there would be a couple of bolts underneath to get into it, but nothing. All there is are these bolts which look like they have ben over tightened to the point that the heads have snapped to prevent tampering. http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160311_151249_zpsd4llhksq.jpgSo now I'm wondering the best way in.I know extractor kits work well on wood screws, but are they heavy duty enough to remove bolts which I can only presume have also been treated with loctite?Otherwise the only other option I'm left with is drilling them out, but the way I've done this in the past is by drilling the head off, to allow the pieces to separate, then using pliars to extract the rest of the bolt - which won't work in this scenario.So any help would be appreciated, and any links to tools I should get would also be helpful. Last time I tried to buy drill bits for metal work, I think I ended up buying wood bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 they are snap head bolts the idea of them is t o tighten them until the head shears off to prevent tampering you can either drill into them and use an easy out or use a fine chisel to tap them round to undo them both can be a pain to do but both will work or if you are not going to reuse that ign switch you could cut the side of it off to espose the side of the bolt then tap it with chisel once you have made it turn then it will come out slowly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tango Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Yeah, anti-tamper bolts as EAB says.......drill them out is the only way...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 yup anti tamper bolts top tip use a large drill bit to just take the head off so you leave something to purchase some grips on to otherwise you wont get them out as they will be held in with lock tight too so a bit of heat will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Fro Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I've given up with easyouts. I'd weld a nut on the top and wind it out - soooo much easier than pissing about with drills, taps and all that jazz. Plus I'd have an excuse to weld something to something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 this is my preferred method these days! easy outs snap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 easy outs snap! Yep found that out when trying to remove a snapped bleed nipple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiggie Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 and the snapped easy-outs are a hell of a lot harder to drill out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caveman Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I had to change the ignition on my Ninja and encountered the same bolts, to my disbelief they just cracked out with a torx key might not be as bad as they look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throttled Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I have managed to get a bolt like that out by using an old screwdriver and a mallet to bang little grooves into the head so that an extractor (a kit I got from Aldi) can bite in and unscrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mealexme Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Managed to get them out with a combination of drilling (not centered due to the thickness of the drill and closeness of the bolt to the side of the ignition) and a center punch to tap the bolt anti-clockwise to get it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caveman Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Revel in your victory well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzie Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Managed to get them out with a combination of drilling (not centered due to the thickness of the drill and closeness of the bolt to the side of the ignition) and a center punch to tap the bolt anti-clockwise to get it out Good stuff, this method usually gets most out. For big bolts I agree the welder is often better, unless you have access to cut a slot with a rotary tool and cutting disc. Because then you just smack it loose with a chisel and hammer.How is the project going overall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mealexme Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Good stuff, this method usually gets most out. For big bolts I agree the welder is often better, unless you have access to cut a slot with a rotary tool and cutting disc. Because then you just smack it loose with a chisel and hammer.How is the project going overall? Getting there. http://www.themotorbikeforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=59741" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Hopefully starting on the brakes today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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