Fatsam Posted January 17, 2017 Posted January 17, 2017 Hi guys, went out on the bike yesterday and all was fine. Stopped at a friends for an hour got back on and off I went. Zx6r 1995.Engine felt it had a vibration like it was running on 3 cylinders and when you throttle down was randomly back firing. Power seemed be there but doesn't feel right. Also a rattling seems to be front right of engine when idling. Any ideas? Quote
Tango Posted January 17, 2017 Posted January 17, 2017 Hoggs had a similar problem a while ago......can't remember now what sorted it.......maybe Hoggs will see this and let you know what she did..... Quote
Mr Fro Posted January 17, 2017 Posted January 17, 2017 Didn't it involve a bucket load of Redex or something? Quote
MR_W Posted January 18, 2017 Posted January 18, 2017 Didn't it involve a bucket load of Redex or something?3 buckets I think. Quote
JRH Posted January 18, 2017 Posted January 18, 2017 Yes it involved Redex. Problem was a misfire I think. Quote
Hoggs Posted January 19, 2017 Posted January 19, 2017 OI OI What's going on here!Yeah mine was a HUGE backfire that is probably due to gunky carbs so I have been putting a capful of redex in with every fill up - seems to have sorted it out. I haven't had any ongoing issues with it recently (touches all the wood in the room)It also did once randomly die... but it started again the next day and never did it again (touch wood) so god knows what happened there.Sorry probably not much help Quote
Fatsam Posted January 19, 2017 Author Posted January 19, 2017 ThanksMate, I darent start it now because of the rattling noise. Need it looked at. Quote
DJP Posted January 20, 2017 Posted January 20, 2017 ThanksMate, I darent start it now because of the rattling noise. Need it looked at. Heard to diagnose at a distance, but if it's rattling and backfiring it could be slipped timing due to a knackered (or wrongly tensioned) cam chain.I'm not familiar with your bike but if it was mine I'd pop the valve cover off and have a poke about. Quote
Fatsam Posted January 22, 2017 Author Posted January 22, 2017 Ok folks, I took cam chain tensioner out and it's at maximum (64mm) could I just swap for a manual tensioer or does it mean chain replace? Quote
TimR Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Ok folks, I took cam chain tensioner out and it's at maximum (64mm) could I just swap for a manual tensioer or does it mean chain replace? Is that the tensioners actual travel or is it just auto adjusted on removal ( did you remove it in the correct manner (if i remember correctly you remove the central tensioner bolt to remove the loading tension and then the housing bolts)Generally cam chain wear is checked by its deflection between two points If its saying that it has reached its maximum stretch limit i would do a visual check to rule out any broken/worn links especially if its a low milage engine . Sometimes the cam tensioners get noisy on their point of adjustment and once adjust they take up the Slack and be quiet until the next click. Quote
Fatsam Posted January 22, 2017 Author Posted January 22, 2017 Ah, interesting. No I took outer bolts out first, I'll re fit later and try centre bolt. Makes sense that. Thank you, I'll be back on soon with result. Quote
rennie Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I was thinking carb. icing!does it even have carbs? Kwaks used to be known for it! Quote
TimR Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Ah, interesting. No I took outer bolts out first, I'll re fit later and try centre bolt. Makes sense that. Thank you, I'll be back on soon with result. Some tensioners if fully extended by incorrect removal may require a new unit ! Others dont but anyway principal of them are ...The centre bolt places tension on via spring so it would fully adjust .You will need to get the tensioner blade back in ( generally a little pawl on the ratchet teeth method) or some work on a screw retention system ) To refit Have tensioner centrebolt removed Tensioner blade/arm fully retractedReattach tensioner body using mounting bolts Make sure any alignment marks in correct place (up etc) and gasket is sealed Re insert tensioner central bolt and tighten ...you willhear it click ... turn engine over preferably by hand ( short spins on motor at worst ) .Check tightness of bolts and for leaks Removal Undo and remove central bolt (warning will be under mild tension and possible plunger and spring mech may be detachable Undo the mounting boltsWithdraw the housing noting its alignments Check tensioning arm/blade for damage and free travel . Quote
Fatsam Posted January 22, 2017 Author Posted January 22, 2017 I was thinking carb. icing!does it even have carbs? Kwaks used to be known for it! Yes it has carbs. What's icing Mate? Quote
rennie Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 difficult to explain! You could try and google it In certain atmospheric conditions the air passing through the air box to the carbscan "freeze" causing fueling issues. Quote
Stu Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 water vapour collects in the carbs and freezes blocking the jets stopping fuel getting through Quote
JRH Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I was thinking carb. icing!does it even have carbs? Kwaks used to be known for it! Yes it has carbs. What's icing Mate?Have a read of this. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor_icingIt's not all the details but helps, and yes Kwaks were well known for it. My GPX had water heated carbs but still suffered occasionally Quote
DJP Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 difficult to explain! You could try and google it In certain atmospheric conditions the air passing through the air box to the carbscan "freeze" causing fueling issues. My old Bandit 600 used to do it. It felt like a misfire as one or more cylinders would cut out due to no fuel getting through.I used to prevent it by putting Silkolene Pro FST in the fuel (from memory, at about 200ml per tank). Quote
Fatsam Posted January 23, 2017 Author Posted January 23, 2017 Tensioner still doing its job, put it all back together and started bike up. Still running like one cylinder not working. I've cleaned and gapped plugs also checked each plug on ohms meter.Got readings of 4.0. 4.32. 3.95. And. 3.62. Any ideas? Please They are 5k resister plugs Quote
Mr Fro Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 Might be worth giving the plug caps an extra turn on the leads - they gave me bother on my ZXR. Quote
Fatsam Posted January 23, 2017 Author Posted January 23, 2017 Might be worth giving the plug caps an extra turn on the leads - they gave me bother on my ZXR. Thanks Mate. Quote
eastanglianbiker Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 could be worth changing the plugs as they might be breaking down under load as well Quote
Fatsam Posted January 23, 2017 Author Posted January 23, 2017 could be worth changing the plugs as they might be breaking down under load as wellYes good point.Any more suggestions greatly appreciated. Quote
Fatsam Posted January 29, 2017 Author Posted January 29, 2017 Problem solved people. It turned out to be some corrosion in number 4 plug cap around the resister. The simplest things eh. Also the rattle I had has sorted itself after I took the cam chain tensioner out and reset it.Thank you for all the replies guys. Quote
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