Aluminium Restoration

[Grumpy Old Git]

Ok,

So, I have a Rocket II which was not particularly well looked after by the previous owner (although the Service History is spot on ) and the aluminium parts (lower fork stanchions; yolk; etc.) have had the top protective layer removed in over 50% of the surface (weather / road salt abrasion) - They do look a bit of a 'mess'.

What I am trying to find out is how to effectively remove the remaining protective layer; clean off the corrosion and re-protect the surface. I know I could 'grind and paint' but I would rather try and retain the original look of the bike (it is a classic after all ).

So....

All you re-build experts out there. please issue your (sensible) advice.

[TimR]

No experience but

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/forkrestoration/forkrestoration.htm

[Arwen]

I'm not sure how thick the protection layer is on those parts, but to remove the top layer from my plastic panels I used these:

They don't scrape deep enough to cause any "scraping/scratching" damage, but do enough to take just the top layer off. Worked very well for me.

[Stu]

I have usually found that its very hard to protect bare alloy as it needs an etch primer for anything to stick to it and most lacquer will yellow then crack or easily chip leaving you back in the same position!

If it was me I would either polish them up and keep them shiny with all that spare time you're going to have or paint them

[eastanglianbiker]

get them off stripped and powder coated silver problem solved these guys can do a chrome powder coat http://www.aerocoat.co.uk/

[Tango]

Buy shares in Solvol Autosol. ........and plenty of elbow grease. .......

[Mr Fro]

I've no experience in rejuvenating aluminium but that won't stop me recommending you having them anodised pink or lime green.

[Guest]

hi, i'm new to this forum and also bike restoration and have similar problem. I have stripped all the metal down and it all appeared to have a primer coat, metallic coat and a lacquer coat but have spoken to paint suppliers and searched the net but even Honda only have paint codes for plastic panels not for metal work. As far as I can tell the shocks and footrests that I need to paint were not the same silver as the frame and swingarm etc. as the latter appear to have a soft sheen finish and not lacquered.

Am I looking at this completely wrong.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

[megawatt]

Burn it.

[megawatt]

Clean all the paint and crud off all the steel and alloy and have it powder coated at the same time.

[fastbob]

I'm not sure how thick the protection layer is on those parts, but to remove the top layer from my plastic panels I used these:

They don't scrape deep enough to cause any "scraping/scratching" damage, but do enough to take just the top layer off. Worked very well for me.

Arrrgh ! Go to Toolstation where you can get these in three grades , fine , medium and course. Fine is ideal for preparing plastics but the course is way too scratchy. Because the ones pictured are green I'm assuming them to be the course ones.http://i.imgur.com/onEAAYl.png

[Arwen]

Well they worked, and for 50p for 3 rather than the £2+ Toolstation would charge I think I'd buy them again to do the job.

[raesewell]

We want before and after pictures

[fastbob]

Ok this is my ER5 before before I tarted it up a bit.http://i.imgur.com/JVc1lqe.jpg And this is afterwards. For the forks I stripped off all the old paint with Nitromors ( beware of imitations , they don't work ) then I decided to go for a brushed finish. Using the aforementioned contour sanding pads I used lateral strokes to get the oxide and marks off then with a careful twisting motion I put fine scratches all in the same direction around the legs . Then I degreased with panel wipe and tack cloth before finishing with lacquer. This does dull it down a bit and oddly enough it looks just like the original finish but with depth. 8000 miles later and they are still looking good . For the radiator cowlings I just stripped the old lacquer and went over them with 2500 grade wet and dry and soapy water then polished to a high shine with a rotary polishing kit on a drill using fine compound. After this photo was taken I lacquered these too which again caused some dulling down. Hope this helps.http://i.imgur.com/E61tejL.jpg

[fastbob]

Same process with the footpeg hangers,chemically removed the scabby paint , sanded out any marks and stains then used progressively finer grades of Tool Station contour sanding pads to achieve a bright brushed finish. Thoroughly degreased then applied clear lacquer also from Tool Station .Again this produces a duller effect but with much greater feeling of depth than silver paint. Before...http://i.imgur.com/x0pFGYr.jpg and after...http://i.imgur.com/zavz0wb.jpg

[Grumpy Old Git]

So far I've used a 'flap wheel' abrader on my 'dremel style' drill which has effectively removed the patchy protective coating. Next job is to use fine 'wet & dry' or similar abrasive to 'polish' the aluminium. Once I've completed this, I'll consider applying a top coat of lacquer.

[fastbob]

So far I've used a 'flap wheel' abrader on my 'dremel style' drill which has effectively removed the patchy protective coating. Next job is to use fine 'wet & dry' or similar abrasive to 'polish' the aluminium. Once I've completed this, I'll consider applying a top coat of lacquer.

 

I would strongly advise AGAINST using a flap wheel unless you want a " hall of mirrors" effect when you apply the final polish.Nitromors will remove all paint and laquer but it won't remove factory applied powder coating or anodizing. Hand rubbing is the only way to achieve an even finish on large areas .

Edited December 4, 2017 by fastbob

[Grumpy Old Git]

Point noted but anything is better than it was.

[Chrissb6]

This your man.

Contact Harry at http://www.briteworx.co.uk/