ER5 Engine Swap / Build

[Via]

Usual answer... Slowly healing, getting to stage I can see improvements now so all good, next question is how much longer will I get away with working from home

 

And the grass?

 

It's October, grass cutting season is over!

[fastbob]

Ok , stage one , when you tackle a job of this size it's important to label all the gubbins that comes off the bike . Like this .

[Via]

Ok , stage one , when you tackle a job of this size it's important to label all the gubbins that comes off the bike . Like this .

 

And all the tools you could possibly need for the job

[fastbob]

And that's how you do that ! I couldn't get any proper assembly tape so I had to use masking tape , with poor results as you can see.

[Guest]

And that's how you do that ! I couldn't get any proper assembly tape so I had to use masking tape , with poor results as you can see.

Man, when you gonna learn that going off half-assed gets you nowhere? I mean, you went to the trouble of getting the correct nut removal tool (on the floor by Bob) to remove the engine and then you go and spoil the ship by using masking tape?????

Minus 1 Ichiban Moto sticker for you, dude! Seriously only Bad-1/2-ass!!!!!

[TimR]

missed one

[fastbob]

missed one

20181020_175847.jpg

 

Missed what Tim ? No image, dead link . Now I've got it

[Tango]

And that's how you do that ! I couldn't get any proper assembly tape so I had to use masking tape , with poor results as you can see.

 

Completely unrealistic.........not a Swiss army knife to be seen!.......

[linuxrob]

What a fantastic read.

Need to think of the best/easiest way to repaint the Z500 motor. Should (I hate that word) get the cases, head, and barrels etc vapour or soda blasted, lots of masking off then paint individually.

The ex-rail worker in me says de-grease, brass wire brush, scotch-brite, etch primer then satin black, finally satin lacquer while assembled loosely. Then buff up - re-plate bolts and strip paint off covers. touched up the valve cover a few years ago like this and acetone took the paint off the bolts in a flash.

Anyhoo, made a start on the switch gear today, see post on old bikes restoration thread.

https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=68312

I see your assistant Bob stealing the show again.

Rob

[Via]

I see your assistant Bob stealing the show again.

 

I think you'll find Bob assists the cat.

[fastbob]

I see your assistant Bob stealing the show again.

 

I think you'll find Bob assists the cat.

 

Bob IS the cat

[fastbob]

Just doing a bit of fettling on the cooling system and discovered that my thermostat has been rattling around loose in its housing for what looks like ages . This could explain why my bike was taking a bit longer to warm up because coolant could get past it even when closed . I can only assume that this has been caused by vibration because the thermostat body doesn't move . I've fixed it by fashioning a large , narrow washer from the lid of an Ikea lunch box. Took ages to do but it has done the trick. Strange . ( pic to follow )

Edited October 3, 2019 by fastbob

[TimR]

the thermostats normally had a rubber sealing ring around outside edge .

https://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/fs-24n0446

or i presume by re reading you mean the actual central valve

[fastbob]

the thermostats normally had a rubber sealing ring around outside edge .

https://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/fs-24n0446

or i presume by re reading you mean the actual central valve

 

That's right, the actual valve assembly had been rattling around so much that it had formed a lip on the recess it sits in and it had been knocking away at the pointed brass tip of the temperature sensor. To be fair this engine did have a wicked vibration which is one reason its been swapped.

[Via]

I've fixed it by fashioning a large , narrow washer from the lid of a lunch box. Took ages to do but it has done the trick. Strange . ( pic to follow )

 

I could have printed you one

[fastbob]

Here we go then , after several hours of f*****g around with planks , levers , blocks and will power I finally got the engine bolts in . I thought I'd drag it indoors so I can gaze upon the fruits of my labour when the telly gets boring. Now all I have to do is stick the gubbins back on again. It seems such a shame to obscure the engine with pipes , the radiator and the tank . It kind of makes you understand where chop builders are coming from .

Edited October 21, 2018 by fastbob

[fastbob]

I've fixed it by fashioning a large , narrow washer from the lid of a lunch box. Took ages to do but it has done the trick. Strange . ( pic to follow )

 

I could have printed you one

I'm sure you could but would it survive 100 ° + temperatures , water and vibration ? Thanks for the thought.

[Via]

I've fixed it by fashioning a large , narrow washer from the lid of a lunch box. Took ages to do but it has done the trick. Strange . ( pic to follow )

 

I could have printed you one

I'm sure you could but would it survive 100 ° + temperatures , water and vibration ? Thanks for the thought.

 

Yes

Done a load of prints lately in PETG, incredibly strong, water resistant and easily survive past 100°c

Prints I've done are for new hot end mount on the printer and parts are a few MM away from hot end which hits temperatures up to 280°c with no deformation.

[fastbob]

I could have printed you one

I'm sure you could but would it survive 100 ° + temperatures , water and vibration ? Thanks for the thought.

 

Yes

Done a load of prints lately in PETG, incredibly strong, water resistant and easily survive past 100°c

Prints I've done are for new hot end mount on the printer and parts are a few MM away from hot end which hits temperatures up to 280°c with no deformation.

Ok, if you're up to it you could hobble out to your own er5 and have a look so no need to send dimensions unless you prefer . I wouldn't be surprised if your own thermostat is rattling around as well. Here's a pic of the ring I made to fill the gap and hold it in place . As you can see, I had to remove a little bit to keep the bypass hole clear but I could have just made it thinner . If your thermostat is dead level with the top of the housing its ok but mine sunk down about 1.5 mm over time . See what you think .

[fastbob]

Everything bolted up , just needs water , oil , and petrol and its press start to go . I can't pretend I'm not shitting myself. It will be a lot of work and money down the pan if it goes bang

[Guest]

....As my Yorkshire Mrs. would say......"it'll be reet...."!

[Tiggie]

as my Yorkshire wallet says " triple check everything first!!!'

[Stu]

It will be a lot of work and money down the pan if it goes bang

 

Not entirely true!

if it doesn't go bang it will be all for nothing

I'm sure it will be all OK

I'm guessing you have turned it over by hand first?

[fastbob]

Oh yes , I've turned it over by hand a lot .

[megawatt]

Why would it go bang? If you've built it properly and checked everything, just start it, listen to it for a while. Let it get hot, let it cool, then drop oil and water for some checks. Refill, then take it for a spin.